jaydubya

The mechanical kill switch in my 82 911 is mounted in the front trunk behind the fuse panel on the left side. There is a heavy-duty insulated wire that attaches to the end of the mechanical lever and runs from the lever between the gap at the back of the hood and is taped down with racer's tape next to the left windshield wiper. This is currently substituting for a proper lanyard.

What do you guys use and where can I buy it? Not finding much with Google...

Thanks,

Jeff

bsr_257

Would this work?


CDOC Pull Cable

jaydubya

I saw that, but I assume it would require drilling a hole somewhere in the body near the windshield wiper base to mount the t-handle... It's definitely a possibility.

After my initial post I found this:

http://www.drdcorp.com/handy-hooker/...ker_straps.htm

I was thinking that I could pass the metal hook through the hole in the kill switch handle and then route the looped end of the strap out the gap between the rear of the hood and the body...

chrisp

if you pull it and it works then it's fine. Although I haven't seen them up close and personal there are a lot of people who have a pull cable exiting the hood/cowl gap. They don't look to be fixed or backed by anything, just a wire leading into the front compartment.

Mine is a pull cable somewhat like the CDOC one shown and I removed my windshield washer nozzle and used that hole. This set up requires a bracket at the switch for the cable to pull against.

jaydubya

Ah, the nozzle! Great idea, hadn't thought of that. I didn't want to lose one of the wipers or drill a new hole...

sleder

I just use the coated cable that exits the trunk at the back of the hood. It has a loop in the end, and that's it. It passes tech each year and I'm fine with it.

chrisp

the only issue with the washer nozzle hole is it orients the cable vertically. If you are usuing something like the CDOC shown there may not be enough room underneath the cowl to orient that cable in a vertical position. I made my own out of leftover bicycle brake cable parts and it works well. I have the CDOC style on my fire system and don't think it would fit under the cowl. You cant bend the rigid tubing to fit under the cowl because it'll crimp around the cable and youre $30 cable is junk (i know this first hand...but on my fire system). Also you need the braket at the other end byt the kill switch to ridgidly mount the cable housing and let the inner pull cable work.

924RACR

Can't help with 911-specific stuff, but I made up something similar to the CDOC style, only cheaper, with components from the local hardware store. Aircraft cable, crimped at each end into a loop using aluminum lugs. One is large enough, with PVC on the cable in the loop, to grab ahold of - this sticks out from under the hood to grab. It's wrapped in blue electrical tape; I could do a nicer job by dipping it in blue tool-handle dip.

The other end is smaller, with a loop for the kill switch handle to connect to with a split key ring. The cable runs through IIRC another length of PVC as a guide, secured with the rubber-lined cable clamps. Fancier than most IT cars, but a no-drill installation I prefer as compared to punching a hole in the hood or fender for the direct mounting of a kill switch.

Here's the pic:

speedread

Do any of you use an electronic Kill switch? http://www.cdoc.com/detail.asp?id=22...nd+Pull+Cables

Bill L Seifert

Pull cables, and lanyards suck. Several times when I had the lanyard, I was all belted in, and lined up, and had forgotten to turn the kill switch on. I moved my switch to the hood within reach by me, and all I had to do was loosen the shoulder straps, lean forward, and turn it on. Also, I have seen them bolted to the cage, close to the steering wheel. IMHO that's best.

I have a friend that has two pull cables, one inside the car, and one on the fender, and sooner or later they will all fail. Due to stretching, I guess. That sure is a pain when you are getting teched, and the tech guy pulls the cable, and nothing happens.

Been there, done that,

Bill Seifert

1987 944 Race Car

RedlineMan

Super Duper Easy;

Bicycle brake cable. If you want, you can splurge for the really good stuff like teflon coated cable and housing,

jaydubya

Great ideas - thanks a bunch!

Bill - "... had forgotten to turn the kill switch on..." - not sure what you mean there. Mine is just a mechanical switch. It's "on" all the time I guess, only "off" when you pull the cable/lanyard.

924RACR

The one by the battery is a secondary, for external use if needed by a worker on that side. I use the primary one in my driver's window. Either one does the job.

fatbillybob

I used bike cable too you can get it and the cable crimp on ends at the hardware store. Then you can run one end of the cable through the hole in the kill switch hole and crimp the end. Many switch keys have two holes one for an exterior safety crew kill and one interior for you to kill. The bigest problem I see with these is that kill switches are mounted too far from the battery and do not ground the alternator. The thing is for safety afterall and if you have an electrical fire it can be anywhere in the line so kill it as close to the source as possible and you will also keep a gasoline ignition source as far away as posssibe at the same time.

f1rocks

I use the electronic and it works very well. Switch on the hood where the windshield washer nozzle was and one on the dash.

Make sure to disengage the relay when the car sits a while (weeks) it does put a drain on the battery.