What do You Think of This Cage?
#76
Originally Posted by tinman944
Somebody please stop by my shop soon and beat me with a stick. I can not believe I am getting involved with another John Hajny cage post.....I have to go back and read all this stuff again... I may be a bit..
Matt you where right I am getting a kick out of this.
Matt you where right I am getting a kick out of this.
Don't make me kick yur butt again!
I was hoping you'd chime in. I was trying to show you that I'm not the only one that builds a dumb cage.
Seriously, I don't see how can you have any exception to what I've said about that cage? Unless... you think it was GOOD?
#77
On the side topic regarding the need to heat treat thin walled chromoly tubing used for roll cages - that is an Rennlist urban legend (we need to come up with a name for info like this that is perpetuated on the Rennlist). As Geo and Fatbillybob pointed out in an earlier post, chromo is used for aircraft fuselages and not required to be heat treated. Here is a pretty good article explaining the welding of 4130.
http://www.eaa1000.av.org/technicl/4130.htm
http://www.eaa1000.av.org/technicl/4130.htm
#78
It's not just propagated here! It is in both of my welding books as well. From the link. Well said too. "By letting weld joints air cool, the joint becomes normalized. Further normalizing and evening of the internal stresses can be accomplished by heating the general area of the weld (cluster) to a straw color (light yellow) and letting the area air cool. This is not absolutely necessary (because the internal stresses of the weld are not that much higher) like it would be with a higher carbon content steel, but I was taught to do"
Note that 4130 gets brittle at low temps.
John. Promise to not use any bondo on the cage and I will stay out if it too. BTW i am just getting started caging and framing up a 911 and I will post pix for coment, o my turn under the microscope is coming up.
Note that 4130 gets brittle at low temps.
John. Promise to not use any bondo on the cage and I will stay out if it too. BTW i am just getting started caging and framing up a 911 and I will post pix for coment, o my turn under the microscope is coming up.
#79
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From: Manchester, NH
Originally Posted by RedlineMan
Besides, the likelihood of getting t-boned at a track day is minimal. T-bones happen in racing where people either get turned in traffic, or go off and back on into traffic. Neither is likely at a DE. If you've got ot have them, then I guess you do. I'd have someone tie the base of the side hoop and the main hoop into the rocker sill first. THEN your door bar has something to hold it in place. It can always be cut out later. I've done it.
#80
Kurt - do your weld books refer to thin walled tubing or chromoly in general? The rules are different in regards to thin walled tubing versus thicker stock. When welding thicker stock the welds do need to be heat treated, but both ASME and FAA do not require it for thin walled tubing.
#81
Originally Posted by Skip Wolfe
Kurt - do your weld books refer to thin walled tubing or chromoly in general? The rules are different in regards to thin walled tubing versus thicker stock. When welding thicker stock the welds do need to be heat treated, but both ASME and FAA do not require it for thin walled tubing.
#82
Originally Posted by Matt Romanowski
Being t-boned might be a low probablility, but sliding sideways into something is pretty high. Really, when you think about it, you see a lot of damaged cars with issues in the door area....