I've got a standart GT3 with Roland Kussumauls settings.

Only for theoric purposes, let's asume that I am a great and experienced driver, a champion.

What would be the main mods in order to gain 2 seconds on a 1'52" technical ( only one evident straight ) track ?. I am no talking about feelings , just raw seconds.

In other words: which would be my next intelligent move to improve my CAR track efficiency ?


Going from less to more investment and from less to more efficiency this could be an example of short advise...:

A) Tyres
1.- DFOT aprouved 2.- Slicks
B) Suspension
1.- Settings ? 2.- Shocks ? 3.-
C ) Engine
1.- ECU 2.- LWFW ? 3.- Gear ratio ?
D) Brakes

THank you all for your advise.

( BTW this is not a theorical question for me, I really want to overtake this XFXDFDFX?! modified GT3 that is allways before me... )

 

USe slicks and properly realign car with optimum toe and camber

 

Thnks RSRRacer....thats very reasonable for me... . I now use MPSC's and have 1,5º front and 2,5º Rear neg. camber. Seems that the front is not the ideal for the track.

 

1. Slicks if you don't have them.

2. If you do, on a technical track I would think proper shocks with the low speed adjustability such as triple or better adjustable.

 

I would think you would want to get your suspension upgraded before going to slicks that way you could take maximum advantage of what ever adhesion (i.e.tires) you're running.

 

Driving school.

 

Mods to the car, not to the driver ......

 

In order of cost:

1) Drop the weight 300+ lbs (strip the interior, pull out the safety bumpers, remove passenger seat, etc)
2) Use slicks with the proper camber/caster/toe
3) Upgrade the suspension (1000/1200# springs, RSR links, etc)

Those changes could yield 4+ seconds.

 

The springs are stiff enough on a stock GT3 to run slicks, but if the slicks and re-alignment don't give you enough (and they should) your next step would be 3 way adjustable shocks and stiffer springs. There is no sense in going to say Motons ($$$$$) and not changing the springs too ($$). Forget about any motor or brake mods. You can't get much improvement from either in a GT3. If it is a point and squirt track, then shorter gears could also help, but that would certainly be a point of diminshing returns.

Of course weight reduction will make a big difference, but that starts you down a very different course. Stripped and gutted street GT3s aren't in big demand.

 

38D,

Thanks, any rough idea about the needed budget ??

 

Thanks Larry. Nice to hear from you ! I surely will go for the re-alignment + slicks + suspension.
Any suggested non-Moton alternative ?

 

As much as you may not want to hear it.... "better nut behind the wheel".

Also would it not be more satisfy to take your friend and then say you did not do anything to the car?

 

Now having a car with Motons on it, I would say no. I love them. There are always the JICs, JRZs and others but the reliability and longevity of the Motons make them worth the extra cost. One lower cost alternative that I might pursue are the adjustable Leda shocks. There are some people here who have had very good results with them, and they should know what they are talking about.

 

1) Stripping the car is free. You could just do the interior in a reverseable way, or go crazy and pull out the climate control, radio, etc, etc.

2) Slicks are ~$1500 USD per set

3) To do a top suspension on a GT3 is north of $12k, maybe even more (RS uprights, motons, springs, links, etc). Ask Radomin (NJ-GT) on the GT3 board, as he has a good setup.

As Larry said, you could also gear the car specifically to the track you run. Also, having a pro pit crew that could setup the car to the specific track/conditions is probably worth 1-2 seconds alone (swapping springs, setting shocks, sways, etc).

Personally, I would just buy a cup car before modifying a street GT3. You are going to dump a ton of money and it will never be as good a the GT3 cup. If you are going to run slick you will have to trailer the car anyway, so get the right tool for the job.

 

Good point and one I am interested in at this moment.

If I take the JIC Cross Comp. suspension off and move to the Moton triple adjustable what spring rates would you recommend I move to?