Arai GP-5W Helmet: Fitting HANS Post Attachment Points
12-10-2006, 11:43 PM
#1
Instructor
Thread Starter
Arai GP-5W Helmet: Fitting HANS Post Attachment Points
Folks,
Just purchased an Arai GP-5W Helmet and a HANS Device and need some advice on fitting the HANS Post Attachment Points.
The helmet has rasied 'seats' on its exterior for the posts and appears to be pre-drilled with a nylon 'plug' filling the hole. Does this plug just pop out or do you need to drill it out? The plugs seems to be really 'in there'. My few 'fingernail' attempts have yielded no joy but I haven't really gone gonzo on them yet.
I removed the interior cheek-pads (they're removable on this helmet) and it does reveal a portion of the inner shell where the interior Post washer/nut would fit but there's another section of the interior padding firmly attached to the shell right where the good part of the attachment would be (i.e. the hole). What do you have to do to get past this holdup? Just force your way past the adhesive?
I know I'm being overly cautious at this point - just hoping someone who's done this could chime in and save me some torn interior padding on a brand new and somewhat pricey helmet.
Barry
Just purchased an Arai GP-5W Helmet and a HANS Device and need some advice on fitting the HANS Post Attachment Points.
The helmet has rasied 'seats' on its exterior for the posts and appears to be pre-drilled with a nylon 'plug' filling the hole. Does this plug just pop out or do you need to drill it out? The plugs seems to be really 'in there'. My few 'fingernail' attempts have yielded no joy but I haven't really gone gonzo on them yet.
I removed the interior cheek-pads (they're removable on this helmet) and it does reveal a portion of the inner shell where the interior Post washer/nut would fit but there's another section of the interior padding firmly attached to the shell right where the good part of the attachment would be (i.e. the hole). What do you have to do to get past this holdup? Just force your way past the adhesive?
I know I'm being overly cautious at this point - just hoping someone who's done this could chime in and save me some torn interior padding on a brand new and somewhat pricey helmet.
Barry
12-10-2006, 11:52 PM
#2
Burning Brakes
Join Date: Aug 2005
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i don't have my helmet handy so i'll speak from memory. there are no peices to remove to access where the post will go. you will need to slide a small screw driver (or alike) between the shell and padding to pop out the plug. you will use the supplied tool for sliding the nun from the post between the shell and padding. it needs some patience. hope this helps.
12-11-2006, 12:15 AM
#3
Racer
Join Date: Jan 2006
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yeah, the plugs pop out, but simply with a thin flathead screwdriver. you do need patience as doc stated as you have to pry the inner adhesive away from the shell a little so that you can slide the part in between the shell and liner. i didn't go crazy prying, but instead just tried to somewhat blindly slide the washer until i could see it through the hole. it worked out well...just did it 2 weeks ago.
12-11-2006, 12:37 AM
#4
Three Wheelin'
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OG racing said to be really careful when installing the posts into a GP5 as you can make the liner come loose. They recommended having a shop do it as it's $350 for a new liner.
12-11-2006, 11:10 PM
#5
Instructor
Thread Starter
Folks,
Good advice all. I'll have a wait as I have to swap out the helmet for size reasons. No harm - no foul. Just trying to get the ducks in order before I break out the sledge hammer and really attempt to do the deed. Glad I examined the helmet I did receive (too small) from the installation standpoint and asked the question. Will post how things go when I get the correct fit and can proceed past just looking things over.
Barry
Good advice all. I'll have a wait as I have to swap out the helmet for size reasons. No harm - no foul. Just trying to get the ducks in order before I break out the sledge hammer and really attempt to do the deed. Glad I examined the helmet I did receive (too small) from the installation standpoint and asked the question. Will post how things go when I get the correct fit and can proceed past just looking things over.
Barry
12-12-2006, 01:43 AM
#6
Addict
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
As was said above, the plugs pop out easily. It was a 5 minute job to get the posts screwed into mine (early last year). I had no issues with the liner and I shoved a few retainer pieces into mine to hold the wires for the headset that I installed into my helmet (Chatterbox type stereo headset). The liner is glued into my GP5 pretty well.
12-14-2006, 12:26 AM
#7
Instructor
Thread Starter
Tom,
Thanks for your input! Since you have track time with the GP-5(W?) I've got a question. I'm just getting my RR legs this year (school + 3 drives since March 2006). I'm looking at using the GP-5W Peak Visor with the helmet which means going sans shield. I've previously used a shielded full face w/shield usually in the open position.
I did find the shield handy after one 'off' at Road Atlanta (in One) where the cockpit filled with dirt dust/grass clippings. After I got my heart re-started I was able to close the shield and continue. It wasn't until I exited Five that the cockpit finally cleared. I won't have that option with the 'Peak'. Any thoughts on that?
Just a newbie RR'er with 1000+ questions!
Barry
Thanks for your input! Since you have track time with the GP-5(W?) I've got a question. I'm just getting my RR legs this year (school + 3 drives since March 2006). I'm looking at using the GP-5W Peak Visor with the helmet which means going sans shield. I've previously used a shielded full face w/shield usually in the open position.
I did find the shield handy after one 'off' at Road Atlanta (in One) where the cockpit filled with dirt dust/grass clippings. After I got my heart re-started I was able to close the shield and continue. It wasn't until I exited Five that the cockpit finally cleared. I won't have that option with the 'Peak'. Any thoughts on that?
Just a newbie RR'er with 1000+ questions!
Barry
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01-23-2007, 11:42 PM
#9
Instructor
Thread Starter
Folks,
The helmet and its 'Peak Visor' are in hand. After returning the L for an XL (Arai's own ordering size chart seems to be just a tad off) and obtaining the 12mm cheek pads to replace the 20mm ones that come stock I have a GREAT fit! With a single layer Nomex hood it's both snug AND comfortable - in a word PERFECT!
The chin strap is about 1.5 inches too short to fasten w/gloves on. It's my understanding that Arai's U.S. based warranty department will take care of this if you badger them but it does involve shipping the helmet to an East Coast address and waiting for it to come back. I've currently been using a G-Force Force Air full coverage and its strap is more than sufficient. Why Arai scrimped on this is beyond me, especially since I seem to not be the first to complain...
Glasses! Yes I wear them too and when I first got into the G-Force its shield and my glasses would steam up immediately. The G-Force, however, comes with an optional 'nose shield' insert that COMPLETELY solves the problem. Too bad the Arai doesn't have a similar attachment.
Next up is the installation of the Hans attachment points. This WILL involve separating a portion of the liner from each side of the interior of the helmet to get the interior anchors (and the Hans supplied wrench) into position.
Is there an approved adhesive to 're-cement' the displaced liner back to the shell once the deed is done? I don't mean to be 'flip' but if I'm in such a bad way that what I use to re-secure the liner (assuming it doesn't weaken the shell) would be critical then I probably have some injuries/burns that would outclass anything derived from the adhesive I used to tack down about 2 sq. cm of liner on both sides. Thoughts?
Barry
The helmet and its 'Peak Visor' are in hand. After returning the L for an XL (Arai's own ordering size chart seems to be just a tad off) and obtaining the 12mm cheek pads to replace the 20mm ones that come stock I have a GREAT fit! With a single layer Nomex hood it's both snug AND comfortable - in a word PERFECT!
The chin strap is about 1.5 inches too short to fasten w/gloves on. It's my understanding that Arai's U.S. based warranty department will take care of this if you badger them but it does involve shipping the helmet to an East Coast address and waiting for it to come back. I've currently been using a G-Force Force Air full coverage and its strap is more than sufficient. Why Arai scrimped on this is beyond me, especially since I seem to not be the first to complain...
Glasses! Yes I wear them too and when I first got into the G-Force its shield and my glasses would steam up immediately. The G-Force, however, comes with an optional 'nose shield' insert that COMPLETELY solves the problem. Too bad the Arai doesn't have a similar attachment.
Next up is the installation of the Hans attachment points. This WILL involve separating a portion of the liner from each side of the interior of the helmet to get the interior anchors (and the Hans supplied wrench) into position.
Is there an approved adhesive to 're-cement' the displaced liner back to the shell once the deed is done? I don't mean to be 'flip' but if I'm in such a bad way that what I use to re-secure the liner (assuming it doesn't weaken the shell) would be critical then I probably have some injuries/burns that would outclass anything derived from the adhesive I used to tack down about 2 sq. cm of liner on both sides. Thoughts?
Barry
01-24-2007, 07:56 AM
#10
Instructor
Originally Posted by Barry A. Waters
Why Arai scrimped on this is beyond me, especially since I seem to not be the first to complain...
Jeremy Lucas
FastTechLimited.com
02-07-2007, 11:44 PM
#11
Instructor
Thread Starter
Folks,
The HANS attachment points are installed (Yes! Work slowly and carefully with the liner!) and everything looks good with the exception of the chin strap length. I've got three days at Sebring coming up shortly so I'm going with what I have but WILL attempt to get it lengthened via the warranty path immediately afterwards. For my neck it's sufficient but pretty damn short.
One problem I did run into concerns the difference between the Standard plastic HANS attachment 'buttons' and the machined aluminum Professional ones. Since I ordered a Standard model HANS (previously called the 'Economy' model) I installed the provided plastic w/steel washer insert buttons first. After getting them tightened properly it was evident (after close inspection) that the posts did not thread completely through the interior nut-washer anchor. There was about a 1 and 1/2~3/4 mm gap from being flush with the inside-most surface of the nut and this concerned me.
I called HANS and spoke w/Trish who spoke with others at HANS. I got a call back saying that the Professional buttons were what I needed. My supplier (Discovery Parts/Ron Zappendorf in Atlanta) got me a Professional set super quick and I installed them. Problem (for me) solved!
It appears that the raised attachment 'seat' molded on the Arai GP-5W shell in combination w/the thickness of the plastic button and its steel washer insert was the issue. The machined button of the Professional variety is thinner in this regard so it allows the post to penetrate further into the helmet - just enough to allow full threading of the attachment post into the interior nut washer, thus overcoming the thickness of the raised seat molding of the Arai's shell.
End result? I feel much better about the installation and am impressed with both the supplier's and HANS response to my concerns.
My suggestion? If you're going w/a GP-5W, spring for the Professional series buttons w/their thinner interface if you're pairing the helmet with a Standard model HANS. I just couldn't get comfortable with a nut/stud assembly where the nut wasn't at LEAST completely on the stud...
Barry
The HANS attachment points are installed (Yes! Work slowly and carefully with the liner!) and everything looks good with the exception of the chin strap length. I've got three days at Sebring coming up shortly so I'm going with what I have but WILL attempt to get it lengthened via the warranty path immediately afterwards. For my neck it's sufficient but pretty damn short.
One problem I did run into concerns the difference between the Standard plastic HANS attachment 'buttons' and the machined aluminum Professional ones. Since I ordered a Standard model HANS (previously called the 'Economy' model) I installed the provided plastic w/steel washer insert buttons first. After getting them tightened properly it was evident (after close inspection) that the posts did not thread completely through the interior nut-washer anchor. There was about a 1 and 1/2~3/4 mm gap from being flush with the inside-most surface of the nut and this concerned me.
I called HANS and spoke w/Trish who spoke with others at HANS. I got a call back saying that the Professional buttons were what I needed. My supplier (Discovery Parts/Ron Zappendorf in Atlanta) got me a Professional set super quick and I installed them. Problem (for me) solved!
It appears that the raised attachment 'seat' molded on the Arai GP-5W shell in combination w/the thickness of the plastic button and its steel washer insert was the issue. The machined button of the Professional variety is thinner in this regard so it allows the post to penetrate further into the helmet - just enough to allow full threading of the attachment post into the interior nut washer, thus overcoming the thickness of the raised seat molding of the Arai's shell.
End result? I feel much better about the installation and am impressed with both the supplier's and HANS response to my concerns.
My suggestion? If you're going w/a GP-5W, spring for the Professional series buttons w/their thinner interface if you're pairing the helmet with a Standard model HANS. I just couldn't get comfortable with a nut/stud assembly where the nut wasn't at LEAST completely on the stud...
Barry
