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Is 6500lbs enought capacity to tow?

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Old 12-14-2006 | 12:17 AM
  #61  
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With all the "bigger is better" and mine is "bigger than yours" talk I just wanted to clarify we are discussing tow vehicles and not some other tool.
Old 12-14-2006 | 01:12 AM
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Originally Posted by Bull
Boy, wouldn't that be nice....binary answers...you are or you aren't...no degrees!
Yes it would be. Nice, that is. I think what I'm alluding to is that focus, judgement and ability mean more than "size" or optimal tow vehicle. Peterbilts never have accidents, right?
Old 12-14-2006 | 07:13 AM
  #63  
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Originally Posted by Russ Murphy
And towing with the "optimum" vehicle is not a guarantee of any sort that you won't wreak havoc with the lifes of innocent bystanders. You can have the best equipment money can buy and still fall asleep at the wheel (or suffer from any other form of human fallibility that always rears it's ugly head). Does anybody here speed? Let's talk about how that's an example of personal irresponsibility.
Mr. Murphy of course you can't control all the variables, but you can eliminate the most common factors to towing accidents. I'd like to think we do that with most variables in our lives. Undersized tow vehicles as relevant to the size and weight of the towed trailer are almost always at the core of tailering accidents sans the acts of God you mentioned.

Many people appear to be uneducated on the risks of towing. I've been towing horses (special call-out to my ex) and race cars most of my 57 years. I've seen several tragic, avoidable wrecks due to poor choices in tow vehicles. I understand that there are economic realities to address in choosing a multi-use tow vehicle. I firmly believe you have to address those choices with safety as the utmost relevant factor.....



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Old 12-14-2006 | 07:24 AM
  #64  
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Originally Posted by Russ Murphy
Yes it would be. Nice, that is. I think what I'm alluding to is that focus, judgement and ability mean more than "size" or optimal tow vehicle. Peterbilts never have accidents, right?
Mr. Murphy personal judgement and all it's ancillary causes and effects were not in question here except as realting to choice of towing platforms.

With regards to Peterbuilts, that's simply another irrelevant straw-man argument and you know it. Tractor-trailer rigs are highly goverend by multiple agencies that regulate size and weight..... Perhaps if we applied their formulas and had to stop at all the scales....
Old 12-14-2006 | 11:30 AM
  #65  
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Originally Posted by jrgordonsenior
Mr. Murphy personal judgement and all it's ancillary causes and effects were not in question here except as realting to choice of towing platforms.

With regards to Peterbuilts, that's simply another irrelevant straw-man argument and you know it. Tractor-trailer rigs are highly goverend by multiple agencies that regulate size and weight..... Perhaps if we applied their formulas and had to stop at all the scales....
Not a straw-man at all. The rigs are highly goverend to optimize their safety, yet they still have accidents. We self govern and buy only long wheel-base tow vehicles and we will still have accidents. Maybe fewer, maybe not. Personal judgement will have a direct impact on that number.

To infer that towing 5500lbs with a V-10 diesel Toureg is akin to outright recklessness (which is what you did) is quite a stretch no matter how you want to frame the argument.

I value your direct experience here and will utilize it in making future choices.
Old 12-14-2006 | 12:54 PM
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So what's the minimum towing capactiy I should consider for a 3,000 car and open trailer (steel or aluminum)? I think 5,000 lb capacity puts me dangerously close to the limit. Would 7,000 lbs be enough?

-Z
Old 12-14-2006 | 01:10 PM
  #67  
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*gasp* Z's getting a trailer?!?

7,000 would be better than 5000... But I would try to go even more than that, because of all of the extras that you carry with you to the track.
Old 12-14-2006 | 02:17 PM
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Z - are you gonna run your tire trailer - behind your car trailer? Then you will need 7k....
Old 12-14-2006 | 03:50 PM
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Get a long wheel base and if you can live with it, get a diesel powered beast. In my setup (Avalanche or Yukon Denali) towing an enclosed 22 footer ATC, cross winds get quite "interesting".

My Avalanche is a 5.3lt and its ok towing in flat Florida. The Denali has a 6.2 liter and it tows better but, having towed with a diesel Ram I can tell you that you'll be marginal on power. Since I drive everyday but tow 6-10 times per year, I compromised and got the 5.3.

At the end of the day its about safety and (only then) convenience.
Old 12-14-2006 | 08:52 PM
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Originally Posted by Z-man
So what's the minimum towing capactiy I should consider for a 3,000 car and open trailer (steel or aluminum)? I think 5,000 lb capacity puts me dangerously close to the limit. Would 7,000 lbs be enough?

-Z
With that Tub you drive, tires, spares, tools (we will show what they are for), Mrs. Z, and a cooler of beer to share with you friends, I would plan on the fact that you will be hauling/pulling around 5000 - 5500lbs. To do it right, I would look for no less than 8000lbs towing capacity, which will give you the proper total GCWR, which is the most important number.

Last edited by Bull; 12-15-2006 at 11:31 AM.
Old 12-15-2006 | 01:38 AM
  #71  
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Originally Posted by Bull
which will give you the proper GVWR, which is the most important number.
GVWR or GCWR?
Old 12-15-2006 | 08:06 AM
  #72  
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Cool I went for the 2006 Toyota Tundra...

Crew cab, full size. The V8 musters 271 hp and 313 lb-ft of torque and is offered with the five-speed automatic only. Maximum towing capacity is 7,100 pounds. I have the TRD 4X4 set up with the trailer towing package which includes a transmission fluid cooler. I have a weight distribution hitch and an anti-sway device installed. I make certain the trailer and truck tires are properly inflated and in excellent shape...and repack and replace the trailer wheel bearings as needed.

I tow a 20 ft. Haulmark (Thanks John Gordon) enclosed trailer with my 3,050 Lb 993 car, total towing weight about 6,200 Lbs. I get about 11.5 mpg when towing, 17 when not.

This is a great set up....it tows like a dream. The weight distribution and anti-sway are helpful...I initially towed the trailer home, 200 miles without the weight distribution and anti-sway. It was OK, but it did wiggle a bit from time to time. Now, post weight distribution and anti-sway, its a dream.

Sure I could have gone to a 250 or 2500 diesel...but that was another $20,000 over the $32,000 I paid for the Tundra. I am a happy camper.
Old 12-15-2006 | 11:28 AM
  #73  
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Originally Posted by DrJupeman
GVWR or GCWR?
Thanks! I meant GCWR, of course. I'll fix it...
Old 12-15-2006 | 11:45 AM
  #74  
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GCWR = Gross Cargo Weight Rating?

GVWR = Gross Vehicle Weight Rating?

Just wanted to be sure I'm understanding these silly acronyms!

-Z
Old 12-15-2006 | 12:10 PM
  #75  
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Originally Posted by Z-man
GCWR = Gross Cargo Weight Rating?

GVWR = Gross Vehicle Weight Rating?

Just wanted to be sure I'm understanding these silly acronyms!

-Z
GCWR: Gross COMBINED Weight Rating:
The weight specified by the manufacturer as the maximum loaded weight of a towing vehicle and its trailer. The sum of the loaded vehicle weight of the truck and trailer should not exceed the GCWR. GCWR = vehicle curb weight + payload + trailer weight + driver and passengers

From HERE

GVWR: Gross Vehicle Weight Rating (truck or trailer independent of one another):

This is the maximum allowable weight of the fully loaded vehicle (including passengers and cargo). This number - along with other weight limits, as well as tire, rim size and inflation pressure data - are shown on the vehicle's Safety Compliance Certification Label, located on the left front door lock facing or the door latch post pillar. Note: The GVW must never exceed the GVWR.



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