993944S2

Bull;

Were did you get the fuel jug holders?

Don

Bull

I used these two jug holders: http://www.saferacer.com/dofujugra.html.

We used T-bolts from Trailex to bolt them to the outside of the side rails on the V at the front of the trailer. They clear everything on tight turns. You can mount them anywhere that the T-bolts will attach.

ltc

You can also get them here:
www.pitpal.com
or
http://www.rbcomponents.com/products.html

Crazy Canuck

NHTSA Trailer Towing Guide

Here is a good trailer resource. It provides a whole slew of info.

Hitching Up Guide

Dexter Axle Trip Checklist

Dexter Axle Maintenance Schedule

Dexter Axle Operation & Storage

Controlling Trailer Brakes

Safe Towing.

Forgot to add this from my company's website:

Since many of our customers are first time trailer towers, we thought it would be a good idea to give you some safety tips. Towing a trailer can be an intimidating prospect if you don't have the right tow vehicle or equipment. If you do have the right equipment, practice safety guidelines and use common sense, towing a properly loaded trailer is a breeze.

There are several safety tips to check on your tow vehicle and trailer before heading out on the road.


Match the maximum trailer weight allowed for the tow vehicle to the Gross Vehicle Weight Rating (GVWR) of the trailer. Do not exceed the GVWR as specified by the manufacturer. You can find the GVWR for your tow vehicle in the owner's manual. If you don't have the owner's manual or it is not listed, contact your tow vehicle's dealer or manufacturer.


Make sure that your tow vehicle tires are properly inflated. Improperly inflated tires will wear faster and could possibly lead to trailer sway. When towing, tire pressure should be on the high side because a fully inflated tire can carry more weight and runs cooler than a tire that is low on air. The maximum air pressure is listed on the sidewalls.


Tow vehicles must have the correct plug at the hitch and be connected to the correct tow vehicle circuits. Pace American uses two types of plugs. Trailers that are not equipped with brakes have a 4-way plug (commonly referred to as a "flat four"). Most other trailers will have a 7-way plug, which accommodates electric brakes and a separate circuit for inside lights.


Check the coupler for fatigue, damage, cracks or missing parts before towing. Test the lock mechanism for complete and correct latching so the trailer will not come unhooked. Be sure that the hitch ball size matches the coupler size for the trailer and make sure that the GVWR of the hitch ball exceeds the GVWR of the trailer.


Do not overload your trailer. The GVWR of your trailer is listed on the trailer's identification plate. Scales to weigh your trailer are available at gravel pits, grain elevators and service stations that cater to over-the-road trucks; there is usually a fee. You should load 60% of your cargo's weight in the front of the trailer. This will put approximately 10% of the loaded trailer weight on the hitch. Always secure the trailer to the tow vehicle when loading or unloading, especially from the rear of the trailer. Some tag units may require a weight-distributing hitch with sway controls. Contact your hitch specialist to properly set up your tow vehicle/trailer combination.


Make sure that when the tow vehicle is coupled to the trailer, they are both level. A tow vehicle that has too much tongue weight on the tow vehicle does not ride level, may not steer properly and could cause damage to the axles. Tongue weight is measured where the trailer couples to the hitch, and it should be 10 to 15 percent of the total weight of the trailer and its contents. The only way to know tongue weight for sure is to take it to a scale and weigh it. To measure tongue weight, unhitch a loaded trailer and weigh it at the coupling. Scales are available at gravel pits, grain elevators and service stations that cater to over-the-road trucks; there is usually a fee.


Be sure to check your lug nuts frequently. During the first 200 miles of towing your new trailer, check them every 50 miles. After the first 200 miles, check them before every trip. Proper torque for tightening lug nuts is between 90 and 120 foot pounds.


Be sure that your trailer tires are properly inflated. The recommended pressure is found on the tire sidewall. Always replace tires with the same designated size and type.

DISCLAIMER
The examples given in this site are general guidelines for illustration purposes only and cannot cover every possible combination of vehicle, hitch and trailer or every loading situation. There are handling problems that cannot always be solved by proper trailer loading. You are solely responsible for the safe loading and operation of your vehicle and trailer.

mitch236

Chris, I love the new avatar!

Crazy Canuck

Merry Christmas!

KOAN

Chris...
Great review. I have used a Trailex for several years, first an open, then an enclosed. I have had no problems, and find the 10-15% tongue weight perfect. Your avatar is mesmerizing, BTW.

Boulder GT3

[QUOTE=Crazy Canuck

Be sure to check your lug nuts frequently. During the first 200 miles of towing your new trailer, check them every 50 miles. After the first 200 miles, check them before every trip. Proper torque for tightening lug nuts is between 90 and 120 foot pounds.


[/QUOTE]

Can't overemphasize this. I learned the hard way.

Crazy Canuck

We've had a coule of wheels on customer trailers shred on us over the years. It has a greater tendency to happen with new rims where the nuts haven't seated properly.

We torque steel wheels to 90-100 foot pounds and aluminum wheels to 110-120 foot pounds as per the specifications by a few of our suppliers.

Boulder GT3

In my case, it was on a Mastercraft boat trailer the first year they put aluminum wheels on them. Thick aluminum rim gets hot going down a pass and the lugs loosened when they cooled. The rim came off and bounced over the hood and roof of a Sentra that was right behind behind me. 1' closer and it would have gone through the windshield. One of those near misses that still scares the snot out of me. Trailer had 50 miles on it and I had checked the lugs 90 ft/lbs before I left.

agio

Rich,
As you know, I too have a Trailex that gives my 996 a ride to the track. Had it for 8 years now. Tires, pressures, bearings, brakes, minimum greasing on the ball and and remember to torque the lugs before each event. Keep the tire pressures at the levels required by your tire manufacturer. Before each use, closely examine the tire condition...miles are often irrelevant to the life of the tires. I've had tires literally "peel" off of the tube while driving along...not a real comfortable feeling. Buy some extra lights for the side markers and rear...comes in handy when you use up a bulb, etc.
These tires do not last long enough to put any real mileage on them before they actually dry rot and delaminate.
BTW, did you get 13 or 14" wheels? Did you get the extra long ramps...very necessary to avoid tearing up the plastic/rubber parts underneath the bumper, etc.
Good luck,
Bob

BluemaxxRacing

Bob, yes your trailer has always been one that I've checked out almost every event we are at together. I got the 13" tires that wear 175/80-13 rubber. I am pretty sure that mine came with the extra long ramps. What is the difference in length so I can make sure?

Everyone, Thank you very much for all the suggestions. Now for some more questions....

1. what do you keep your tire pressures at? Suggestions for me and my 3100 lb car with 8 tires on the tire rack?

2. where is the best place to buy a spare wheel & tire? Anyone have any good/cheap places?

3. I am thinking about buying reflective tape for the rear? Good idea or not necessary?

4. I will probably buy fuel jug holders from www.pitproducts.com. Will I need additional bungy cords for these?

5. Anyone have tie down hooks for a 996 and if so, where did you get them?

Thanks again everyone!
Rich
www.BluemaxxRacing.com

agio

1. what do you keep your tire pressures at? Suggestions for me and my 3100 lb car with 8 tires on the tire rack?
Cold, I inflate them to 45lbs. I believe the max inflation is 50lbs cold, but check the tire rating itself.
2. where is the best place to buy a spare wheel & tire? Anyone have any good/cheap places?
This is important. About 2.5 years ago, I bought four new Goodyear tires; put on about 7500 or so miles. Although, all had excellent tread, one of the tires delaminated. This has happened to me previously with other makes of tires as well (Hankook, especially for me...3 tires delaminated).
Last week I just bought 4 tires/wheels directly from Trailex...the cost was a bit more than the tires/mounting separately from a tire dealer, but more convenient and "cleaner" deal. PS the trailer/car are stored inside my garage after each event.
3. I am thinking about buying reflective tape for the rear? Good idea or not necessary?
Good idea...can't hurt, but can certainly help...pariticularly as it is darker on the way home from the track now.
4. I will probably buy fuel jug holders from www.pitproducts.com. Will I need additional bungy cords for these?
Don't know.
5. Anyone have tie down hooks for a 996 and if so, where did you get them?
We put hooks underneath the 996. I used to tie it down around the tires, but the hooks are a better method. Mitch figured this one out and he was right.

Also, buy a trailer ramp and take it with you. If you get a flat, etc. you will not have to jack the trailer with the car on it or, in the alternative, unload the trailer and then jack it up. A real nightmare. With the ramp, you can drive up and the "other" tire will be free for you to change.
Also, consider buying a second spare. Many say why bother? Well I say it's worth it because if one tire fails chances are the others are not far behind. Because I bought 4 new tire/wheels, I'm going to keep the best of the old wheels and use them as extra spares.
Just my .03
Bob

Greg Fishman

Racer parts wholesale is a good place for tie downs.
You need the trailex mount for the spare wheel/tire if you don't have it already. Local tire shop is probalby as good as anywhere considering the cost of shipping to get a spare. More tape the better, IMO.

Fuel jugs, might consider how to lock the jugs into the holder. You don't want someone to steal your jugs or contaminate your fuel.

RickBetterley

2nd the advice for the jack ramp; I carry a light aluminum jack that can lift one side of the car, but not the trailer with the car in it. Came in real handy when I blew a tire in 100 degree heat returning from the Glen.
As for a 2nd spare - All the way home from the Glen I thought about how I no longer had a spare. Bought one right away.