That is quite true and one more reason to keep it as is until you know what rules you want to prep to. What you have now is reasonably good. So this means you will be fine running around the track. Once you know the exact prep level you want to build to then start getting the parts for that. Other wise you risk buy parts you will not need in 12-18 months.

Ahh... it the hoosiers are the only thing keeping it from 944-spec prep level them consider that prep level. It should be the cheapest rule set to max out to the limit of the rules and will be the lowest cost to operate. It also seems like it might even be competitive in 944 cup.

hey my 944 spec car does not have a LSD. I would love one, but buying means not racing for 6 months to a year to pay for it. Hmmm I'd much rather race for 6 months with an open diff than to sit a wait to get the stupid LSD. Right now I can compete for class wins and sure the LSD may give me the bits I need to keep up with my LSD shod competitiors, but better to race and lose than not race at all.

 

this is the best advice right there.

for very different reasons, but it took me three years of ownership of my car before i even found out *what kind* of susp i was running.
just figured if it ain't broke... and so it lived on the track for 2 years before i found out i could 'do better' in terms of hardware.

 

Of course this not an excuse for running on crap with a poorly set-up car.

 

FWIW here's a spreadsheet compiled by a fellow 'lister of 994 variants and springrates used. Might be interesting. 944 Spring Rates

Can you do something with swaybars? Like the 968 M030 3-way adjustable or the like (something that came stock on some 944 variant). Can you adjust the front ride height (I imagine you have the eccentric adjustment on the rear spring plate)? In otherwords can you corner balance the car? As folks have said, that can be a huge help.

 

Summing it all up...

Save your money and drive it. Dial it in as best you can as it is now. You will chew up more tires with that mushy suspension, but you'll learn the car better. You can grow with it, instead of into it. That is a lot more fun, and you will then know what you are doing once you get to racing where setup knowledge really pays off.

 

Just me 2 cents, but -3.5 camber in the rear? My personal experience tells me that this is wayyy to much grip in the rear.

The rest is top secret.

Get a good track alignment, then drive the snot out of the thing.

 

Thanks for all yoru help guys. I'll just make do with what I have.. and this will free up some money for things i need more anyway (like a transponder).

I'll figure the suspension out after a year of racing or so... (i cant wait to get my licence)

As for the rear camber, I thought it was a lot to, but the car is VERY neutral, wears the tires evenly and is a blast to drive. I think the reason for this much camber is to comensate for the loose suspension and the lack of an lsd (which is an item i cant live without, lol).

Once again you all set my head on straight I feel like a child learning from the best

 

<groan> Yeah, that 3.5 is gonna be needed with such a soft setup; get those spring rates up, and you should be able to drop it to around 3.

 

Indeed;

If you look at the first photo, with that much roll you need that much camber to get the contact patch flat. Of course you need to be able to drive hard enough to properly utilize any camber setting. A lot of experienced racers use -3+, but most of the guys copying that because "that's what the fast guys use" are just shredding inside rubber.

Use the camber you need. Tire wear will tell you pretty quickly.

For reference, entering the Keyhole at Mid O from the chicane - very hard turning here. Lighter car, wider tires, WAY stiffer springs (500F/450R). Almost got the rear tire up. Gotta try harder next time!

 

Vaughan, yup i think its to much to, but the tires say other wise and the picture shows why that much camber is needed... although I'm glad there are not to many straights!

John,
wow! can you say flat! I think that illustrates what i want in the future.. problem is getting there

 

GOOD THREAD

 

So true! You've gotta be able to drive fast enough to use all that camber! It's amazing how much the setup has to change when you get down to that last second or two on the track... I only ran 2.5-2.75 until I really got the car cooking and could justify the camber with tire temps...

PS - gratuitous Flat Car Cornering pic...

 

I knew you'd have a good one!