arbeitm

I've seen alignment settings where the camber is set higher in the front than rear wheels. Then I've seen settings where the rear wheels are set higher than the front.

And with toe, I've seen setting where the front and rear wheels have equal toe. And also settings that have more rear toe-in than the front.

Can anyone tell me the benefit of these different settings?

Joe Weinstein

toe-out makes the car more 'darty', with quicker turn-in in the front.
You never want it in the rear. Toe-in makes the car react more
slowly, safely. Street cars have a lot of it, and you want it in the
rear to avoid snap-oversteer.

Negative camber tilts the wheel in at the top so when you're in a
corner with body lean, the outside tire gets stood up straight so
the important tire is flat on the ground instead of leaning out on,
running on the outside edge. That's good for both ends of the car
but the trade-off is that when you're going straight the tire is tilted
so it hurts braking in the front and acceleration in the rear. So you
make your choices...
Joe

Larry Herman

To expand on what Joe said, most cars work best with toe-in in the back, and zero to slight to-in in the front. Camber is a totally different animal. What works best depends on the suspension geometry of the car, the stiffness of the suspension and the grip of the tires. Some suspension designs gain a lot of camber on compression, and some do not. Some lose camber due to flexing under load, and some do not. So based upon their designs, older 911s tend to need more camber in the rear, and newer ones (996s) need less camber in the rear, as compared to the front.

GUMBALL

If, as your photo suggests, you are doing autocross, may I suggest the following settings:

Front toe - 1/8" to 3/8" out (as J.W. stated above, it helps turn-in)
Front camber - as much as 3 degrees negative (this tends to plant the loaded outside tire better)
Caster - as much as the car will give you (make sure it equal side-to-side)
Rear toe - 1/16" to 3/16" in
Rear camber - between 1 and 2 degrees negative

Another benefit of running a lot of negative camber, the car is faster in a straight line - it is only running on about 2" of tire.
For a track setting the above will work well as a starting point, experiment from there - Carroll Smith does very good explanations in his books Prepare to Win and Tune to Win.
These settings are NOT good for street driving....

ngoldrich

FWIW - The setup I run on my GT2 racecar is right in line with what Gumball notes.

I run the following:

Front:
Camber: -2.8 deg
Toe: 1/8" toe out

Rear:
Camber: -1.6 deg
Toe: 1/16" to 1/8" toe in

Norm

smlporsche

I see that you have a 944 so I'll chime in.
First of all I'm running Toyo Ra-1's which like alot of neg. camber but here is what my recent alingnmnet settings are ( done by a local P shop whos owner use to race):
Front camber -3.5
Front toe +.10 per side

Rear Camber - 2.6
Rear toe + .25 per side

I ran the car @ VIR and was very happy with how the car felt under heavy braking and turn in.
This is obviously not street friendly.

arbeitm

Thanks for the recommendations. I just did a whole bunch of suspension work and need to take the car for an alignment. I was just trying to get a feel for the type of settings I should go with.

I was thinking...

Front Camber -1.5 (I know you guys are talking in the 2's and 3's...but my suspension won't allow me any more than like -1.7 I think. I don't have camber plates.)

Front Toe - 0

Caster - 3.5 deg.

Rear Camber -1.25 deg.

Rear Toe in - 1/16" (whatever tha works out to in degrees)

I mostly autocross but would like to get to a least one or two DE's next year. And I have to drive to these events...so it has to be somewhat streetable.

Veloce Raptor

Damn.

First time I scanned the title of this thread, I thought it said "Camel Toe Questions"...