BEST TRACK SET UP??
#76
Originally Posted by 38D
Jim - if you are just getting started, I would stick with the stock suspension for now. Just get a track focused alignment. When you start to wear the outter edge of yout tires quickly (like in 1 event), then you should upgrade.
When you are ready to upgrade, I would do the whole thing at once: sways + shocks + springs. Your suspension is a system, so upgrading only one piece rarely is a good idea. Huge sways with the stock springs/shocks will lead to some really whacky handling.
When you are ready to upgrade, I would do the whole thing at once: sways + shocks + springs. Your suspension is a system, so upgrading only one piece rarely is a good idea. Huge sways with the stock springs/shocks will lead to some really whacky handling.
Thanks for the insight. This is the feedback that I have gotten from myself on the track and others. This car from factory is a very capable car on the track with novice hands and DE events. I have done the RS alignment which call for a 1 deg neg camber, which I can probably be pushed a little more. Are their any other alignment tips.
The only thing is the ride height drives me nuts, can I just put the H&R lowering springs on a factory setup to get some of the ride height out.
For now I will probably focus on better tires for next year and maybe some more safety gear / mods and race seats.
I know this isn't the right forum, but I would like to get MPSC tires and I would like to go a little wider on the front and back then stock. Like 235/40's and 295/30's will these work. I have the hollow turbo twists and I think they are 8x18 and 10x18, so the wide wheels to suport them, but I get lost in the spacing and offset jargon. I have P-Zero Roso's now, so maybe the Sports or Sort PS2 would be better then the cups.
Thanks,
Jim
#78
Originally Posted by mitch236
Those MPSC's will fit perfectly.
Rock on, you just help me spend $1k. Now I just need to cut a deal with the local tire shop since I will be going through a set or two of them.
Thanks,
Jim
#79
Burning Brakes
Originally Posted by Bull
Talk with the JIC folks and they will set you up with a suspension that is right for you. The 15 setting adjustable shocks are good for up to 1000lb springs before they need to be re-valved. The nice thing about that suspension is that a wide range of springs are available for only $80 per spring. As you go along in your track efforts, you can easily change the springs if need be. I'm using 600lb/800lb now and am very happy with the suspension.
#80
Drifting
Originally Posted by Steve Weiner-Rennsport Systems
Tom:
Without question, the Motons are the hands-down best choice for track work. They are 2-5 sec/lap better than the PSS-9's.
The spring package needs to be custom tailored to your driving experience and skill level.
Without question, the Motons are the hands-down best choice for track work. They are 2-5 sec/lap better than the PSS-9's.
The spring package needs to be custom tailored to your driving experience and skill level.
#82
Drifting
First off don't waste your money with PSS-9's. They are complete garbage. Bilstien does not warrenty race shocks but the do warrenty PSS-9's. Go figure. I have replaced quite a few of them for numerous reasons. I would not use them on a street car.
Having seen several different shocks on a shock dyno the most consistant and linear are without a doubt is JRZ. Motons were all over the place and more often then not overlapped several settings. I am not sure how usefull these adjustments are when the only place they are different is the first half inch or so on compression or rebound?
Buy a good shock to start with. Get some dyno charts. See for yourself.
If you can wait a couple of days I can post some data that I have.
Having seen several different shocks on a shock dyno the most consistant and linear are without a doubt is JRZ. Motons were all over the place and more often then not overlapped several settings. I am not sure how usefull these adjustments are when the only place they are different is the first half inch or so on compression or rebound?
Buy a good shock to start with. Get some dyno charts. See for yourself.
If you can wait a couple of days I can post some data that I have.
#84
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I have the PSS-9s on my 993 which was used for dual track/street for a year before being retired to street only. They are ok but not great IMO and I would never buy them again. I have used JIC's (with mid range springs) for 3 years on my track only 964 and am very happy with them. I have "outgrown" what I started with and have just switched to full monoballs and EVO uprights. The springs are moving to 600/800 as a first step and may get more firm but still the same JIC shocks. I'll see how it goes with a 3 days to test, tweak and race this weekend. My car is 2500 lbs so, if you go the JIC route, you may want to go with the firm springs from the start.
While the non-adjustable factory option may work, you also may not be thrilled with it and it will not be all that easy to tweak. The JIC setup can be modified to fit your needs and it can be modified as your driving changes.
Count me in on the beer (and non of that emailed stuff).
While the non-adjustable factory option may work, you also may not be thrilled with it and it will not be all that easy to tweak. The JIC setup can be modified to fit your needs and it can be modified as your driving changes.
Count me in on the beer (and non of that emailed stuff).
#85
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Originally Posted by David 23
I have JIC with the mid level springs, 450/675, and the struts set about 3/4 stiff. It gives an acceptable street ride and very good track performance. I would certainly reccommend the JIC. However, after reading this thread, I wonder if I should step up to the 600/800? I drive to the track, and occasional street use. Bull, did you start with the mid springs and move up? Your thoughts? Also curious about your bars and settings.
#86
Burning Brakes
Originally Posted by Bull
David23, I took advantage of other's advice on the springs and went directly with the 600/800lb springs, mostly input from Dr. Jupeman, who ran JIC on his equally heavy Tubbo 3.6. He had started with the mid-level springs, then went heavier. I run with the shocks on setting 8 all the way around. My sways are H&R 26mm/24mm bars, set soft in front and firm for the rear.
I assume if I change springs I will need to re corner balance ?
#87
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Originally Posted by David 23
Bull, when you say your shocks are on setting 8, is that 8 clicks from full hard? The 500/800 springs are what JIC calls 10/14 kg? I don't see a direct equivilent.
I assume if I change springs I will need to re corner balance ?
I assume if I change springs I will need to re corner balance ?
#88
Burning Brakes
Originally Posted by Bull
Actually 8 clicks from full soft, as close to the middle as one can get with 15 settings. The 10/14kg are actually 560/784lbs according to JIC...I was rounding, and those are what I have. Talk to Ben at JIC-Magic, info@jic-magic.com, and he will tell you about all of the spring options. there are more than shown on theitr website in the suggested packages. The shocks are good to 1000lbs.
That is the set I thought you were referring to. I am running about 3 clicks firmer (I'd have to check my notes to be exact) but on the softer springs. I may call Ben, but am really leaning toward trying the stiffer set. Is there a handling downside? I imagine the stiffer springs make even quicker transitions?
#89
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Originally Posted by David 23
That is the set I thought you were referring to. I am running about 3 clicks firmer (I'd have to check my notes to be exact) but on the softer springs. I may call Ben, but am really leaning toward trying the stiffer set. Is there a handling downside? I imagine the stiffer springs make even quicker transitions?