CV Boot Ripped-Trackable?
#16
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Depending on whether the bolts havebeen replaced, you may need a "triple square" bit to remove the bolts. This is like a Torx but with 12 pionts. cheap at the local parts store. Clean the sockets completely with a dental robe or awl, you have to bottom the tool completely or risk stipping the head. Ask me how I know. New bolts (Allen)can be sourced at a industrial fastener place. They are hard material (Like grade 8 in imperial) and @ 30 Ft# the allen heads are fussy. again make sure you are bottomed and straigt for the final tightening. Abut 2 weeks after the job-or in your case, after the DE-re-torque the bolts...they WILL loosen (ask me...). In fact,it's a good idea to check at least a few of them before each DE.
Enjoy your DE.
Oh, IIRC, if you do disassemble the CV, (this is often not voluntary--ask me...) the rick to reassembly,after you chase all the ball bearings from under your bench, the two parts have a line on one side. those lines should be on the same side, no matter how counter intuitive it seems (ask me...)
I got CV lube from VW at a reasonable price. Wear gloves--it is tenacious stuff!!!!
Hope this helps.
Enjoy your DE.
Oh, IIRC, if you do disassemble the CV, (this is often not voluntary--ask me...) the rick to reassembly,after you chase all the ball bearings from under your bench, the two parts have a line on one side. those lines should be on the same side, no matter how counter intuitive it seems (ask me...)
I got CV lube from VW at a reasonable price. Wear gloves--it is tenacious stuff!!!!
Hope this helps.
#17
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Ummmm, plan to replace both boots on the side you take apart and soon after the other two. if one is done, they are all close.
Make sure you order new gaskets for each CV. Sometimes they come with the boot, often not (ask me...)
Make sure you order new gaskets for each CV. Sometimes they come with the boot, often not (ask me...)
#18
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There was a recent thread here about cv joint bolts loosening shortly after a repair. I'd replace the toothed washers under the bolt heads, and make sure all of the threads are clean and dry. Personally, I'm putting a small drop of blue loctite on them from now on, after reading all of the comments on the previous thread.
#19
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Points:
- I don't ever remember seeing a washer on a CV bolt. If anything, there may be "gang plates" for them.
- I've not seen any gaskets that I can remeber. Not in a long time anyway. Clean the mating surface between flange and joint and silicone it lightly.
- I believe they are grade 10.9 Euro or 8 SAE. Most socket head cap screws are 10.9.
- I have NEVER had a bolt come loose, either when using old or new ones. I do not use a torque wrench. I tighten them by feel, as tight as I feel they should be, with a standard 3/8 ratchet. This is probably tighter than 30ft/lbs. If you are not good with fasteners, use a torque wrench, and then give it another 1/4-1/2 turn for good measure.
- If you've got everything nice and clean, paint the bolt head so you can visually check whether they are tight whenever you want. I do this on ALL my track cars. You can clearly see the neon pink lines on the CVs below.
- I don't ever remember seeing a washer on a CV bolt. If anything, there may be "gang plates" for them.
- I've not seen any gaskets that I can remeber. Not in a long time anyway. Clean the mating surface between flange and joint and silicone it lightly.
- I believe they are grade 10.9 Euro or 8 SAE. Most socket head cap screws are 10.9.
- I have NEVER had a bolt come loose, either when using old or new ones. I do not use a torque wrench. I tighten them by feel, as tight as I feel they should be, with a standard 3/8 ratchet. This is probably tighter than 30ft/lbs. If you are not good with fasteners, use a torque wrench, and then give it another 1/4-1/2 turn for good measure.
- If you've got everything nice and clean, paint the bolt head so you can visually check whether they are tight whenever you want. I do this on ALL my track cars. You can clearly see the neon pink lines on the CVs below.
#20
Mr. Excitement
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John you may have never seen the bolts come loose and I have never had them come loose on my car ether. BUT please don't use this small data pool to make recomendations. I have seen MANY cases of the bolts coming loose or failing on 911s 914s 944s 928s ect.
If the boot has been torn and there is dirt in the grease clean and repack the CV. If the boot failed on it's own and was not torn by something and all are same age replace all 4. The other 3 wiill fail too. Use new bolts if the old ones are original. Don't use hardware store mush metal Crown brand bolts, use traced source real bolts. o name bolts are often so soft that they ether pop the head off during torque or loosen up from too much strech and not enough return.
If the boot has been torn and there is dirt in the grease clean and repack the CV. If the boot failed on it's own and was not torn by something and all are same age replace all 4. The other 3 wiill fail too. Use new bolts if the old ones are original. Don't use hardware store mush metal Crown brand bolts, use traced source real bolts. o name bolts are often so soft that they ether pop the head off during torque or loosen up from too much strech and not enough return.
#22
Burning Brakes
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Thanks everyone for the input.
FYI, my car is an 87 911. According to the Bentley Manual, the design changed over the years.
As for the washers, I plan on putting Schnoor washers between the bolt and the "half moon" plates unless someone tells me this is a bad idea.
FYI, my car is an 87 911. According to the Bentley Manual, the design changed over the years.
As for the washers, I plan on putting Schnoor washers between the bolt and the "half moon" plates unless someone tells me this is a bad idea.
#23
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Originally Posted by kurt M
John you may have never seen the bolts come loose and I have never had them come loose on my car ether. BUT please don't use this small data pool to make recomendations. I have seen MANY cases of the bolts coming loose or failing on 911s 914s 944s 928s ect.
I've seen lots of them come apart, but in 15 years they've never been any of mine (my or my customer's cars). I'd say that shows I know how to do it. Anybody is free to do whatever they want. I know what has worked for me, and I offered it. Take it for what it's worth to "you", just like everything on the net.
#25
Burning Brakes
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Lou.
Yes. I was just too far behind the 8 ball on this on. It was fun trying to remove the 32 mm axle nut with a half inch drive (broke both of them- luckily (or unlickily-depending on your perspective) both were Craftsmen. 3/4" was much easier.
Thanks for the update
John
Yes. I was just too far behind the 8 ball on this on. It was fun trying to remove the 32 mm axle nut with a half inch drive (broke both of them- luckily (or unlickily-depending on your perspective) both were Craftsmen. 3/4" was much easier.
Thanks for the update
John