Anyone here using a weight dist hitch for a set up that's under 5,000 lbs?
07-12-2006, 04:04 PM
#16
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I've used no weight distribution, the Draw-Tight round bar distribution and now the Reese integrated load-distribution/anti-sway system. While the load-distribution alone was much better than nothing, the integrated system is better yet and does not cost that much more. For me, spending less than 2 tires on the hitch is a no-brainer considering how much the tow vehicle, trailer and car cost.
I also think the Sherwood tongue scale is a great investment. Watching how 1-2" difference in load position makes huge differences in the tongue weight made me realize that guessing at the proper load position was silly. Sure you can feel when it's way off, but using the cheap, simple scale to get it right to begin with makes life easier.
I also think the Sherwood tongue scale is a great investment. Watching how 1-2" difference in load position makes huge differences in the tongue weight made me realize that guessing at the proper load position was silly. Sure you can feel when it's way off, but using the cheap, simple scale to get it right to begin with makes life easier.
07-12-2006, 07:57 PM
#18
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Originally Posted by Tom W
I also think the Sherwood tongue scale is a great investment. Watching how 1-2" difference in load position makes huge differences in the tongue weight made me realize that guessing at the proper load position was silly. Sure you can feel when it's way off, but using the cheap, simple scale to get it right to begin with makes life easier.
A very good thing to do. When I set up a new rig, I scale the front, and mark the floor for reference as to so-many-100-pounds of tongue weight at this point. Oh... but I've always used a bathroom scale and a 3' 2x4.
07-12-2006, 08:01 PM
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Originally Posted by chrisp
John, that sounds like a "gallons per mile" as opposed to a "miles per gallon" type of vehicle.
Actually 10-12 is about the same as any other gas propelled "real" tow vehicle. Filling that 55 gallon tank gets ones attention these days. I more than make up for that by not having any motel bill (cube van - bunk in back). Not having to think about stability on the road? Priceless!
07-12-2006, 08:07 PM
#20
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How many pounds do you guys set your tounge at? I have the Sherwood scale and I'm at 400 lbs. The car weighs about 3000 and I'm guessing the open steel trailer is 1750 lbs? It's a 12' bed with a 6' tounge.
I tow with a Ford 150 SuperCrew that has 5.4 ltr engine and towing pkg. It pulls and drives well with no tail wagging the dog no matter how fast I go.
Braking is good as well, although I would like a little more out of my hydraulic trailer brakes. Having disc brakes would be better than drums, but that's another thread.
I tow with a Ford 150 SuperCrew that has 5.4 ltr engine and towing pkg. It pulls and drives well with no tail wagging the dog no matter how fast I go.
Braking is good as well, although I would like a little more out of my hydraulic trailer brakes. Having disc brakes would be better than drums, but that's another thread.
Last edited by A930Rocket; 07-12-2006 at 09:27 PM.
07-12-2006, 08:56 PM
#21
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Mine is about 8000 lbs and I position the car to give a tongue weight of about 900 lbs (like John, a high tech line on the floor from a marker run along the front splitter once it was positioned to my desired tongue weight). From what I have read, it should be 10-15% of the trailer weight.
My 18' open steel trailer was about 1800 lbs but I had 11' steel pull-out ramps that were pretty heavy (and great for loading).
My 18' open steel trailer was about 1800 lbs but I had 11' steel pull-out ramps that were pretty heavy (and great for loading).
