Winch Mount for Enclosed Trailer
06-02-2006, 10:57 AM
#17
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Originally Posted by Crazy Canuck
...When mounting your battery, if on the inside, make sure you have a box with a vent hose which is ventilated to the outside - or mount it on the tongue. The new thing we're doing is mounting a small solar panel on the top of trailers and wiring it to the battry so it will trickle charge. This way when you go to use it the battery isn't dead.
06-02-2006, 11:00 AM
#18
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You could. A lot of computers in the newer vehicles do not like major power fluctuations (if the vehicle is running). Are you wiring through the trailer plug? If so the guage of the wire isn't large enough. If you're doing a connect/disconnect every time you use it there is no reason the tow vehicle battery wouldn't work.
06-02-2006, 11:09 AM
#19
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No, just direct connect to the truck battery. As I said, I haven't done this before. Have used the extra "winch" battery. Frankly, have wondered why the mfgr provides a 20' wire bundle. This must be why. As I said, I'm a little slow at times.
06-02-2006, 12:57 PM
#20
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Originally Posted by ltcjmramos
No, just direct connect to the truck battery. As I said, I haven't done this before. Have used the extra "winch" battery. Frankly, have wondered why the mfgr provides a 20' wire bundle. This must be why. As I said, I'm a little slow at times.
Wouldn't a dedicated battery in the trailer, with a small solar panel be easier? It certainly is safer to the tow vehicle.
06-02-2006, 01:31 PM
#21
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Originally Posted by Crazy Canuck
You could run it through the frame of the truck and run it direct from the truck battery hooked up with a tow truck type quick disconnect. I wouldn't operate the winch with the truck running though. Too much risk to the computers.
Wouldn't a dedicated battery in the trailer, with a small solar panel be easier? It certainly is safer to the tow vehicle.
Wouldn't a dedicated battery in the trailer, with a small solar panel be easier? It certainly is safer to the tow vehicle.
06-02-2006, 01:55 PM
#22
Cows-4-Rent
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06-02-2006, 02:16 PM
#23
Winch wiring
I wouldn't direct connect to the truck battery for either the winch or a tongue jack. The tongue jack will pull up to 30A and the winch will pull more I'm sure. Bad juju for the electrical system on the tow rig.
If you are using a factory 7pin connector on your tow rig there is usually a charge circuit in that loom that will charge an aux battery. On a Ford or Chevy I think it is the orange wire that is at the 1 o'clock position as you look at the female connector but your manual will varify. At any rate, this lead will charge an aux battery and then drop the voltage as the battery is charged. The circuit is usually used for the "house" battery in a travel trailer or 5th wheel. Don't just use a "hot" wire to charge an aux battery as it will cook the battery.
I hooked up my interior trailer lights, tongue jack and winch to an aux battery and I'm happy with the way it works. You don't have to have the keys on in the truck and a deep cycle battery holds the charge for months. No risk to damage on the tow rig electrics.
I've used solar panels to charge the batteries on boats and they work well. However, on a trailer you're drilling more holes, mounting something, spending $100 (you've got to buy one that has a charge circuit and not just 12VDC out) and adding a failure point.
If you are using a factory 7pin connector on your tow rig there is usually a charge circuit in that loom that will charge an aux battery. On a Ford or Chevy I think it is the orange wire that is at the 1 o'clock position as you look at the female connector but your manual will varify. At any rate, this lead will charge an aux battery and then drop the voltage as the battery is charged. The circuit is usually used for the "house" battery in a travel trailer or 5th wheel. Don't just use a "hot" wire to charge an aux battery as it will cook the battery.
I hooked up my interior trailer lights, tongue jack and winch to an aux battery and I'm happy with the way it works. You don't have to have the keys on in the truck and a deep cycle battery holds the charge for months. No risk to damage on the tow rig electrics.
I've used solar panels to charge the batteries on boats and they work well. However, on a trailer you're drilling more holes, mounting something, spending $100 (you've got to buy one that has a charge circuit and not just 12VDC out) and adding a failure point.
06-02-2006, 02:51 PM
#24
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Originally Posted by Boulder GT3
If you are using a factory 7pin connector on your tow rig there is usually a charge circuit in that loom that will charge an aux battery. On a Ford or Chevy I think it is the orange wire that is at the 1 o'clock position as you look at the female connector but your manual will varify. At any rate, this lead will charge an aux battery and then drop the voltage as the battery is charged. The circuit is usually used for the "house" battery in a travel trailer or 5th wheel. Don't just use a "hot" wire to charge an aux battery as it will cook the battery.
06-02-2006, 02:56 PM
#26
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Originally Posted by ltc
If you have a generator, another option is simply a 120VAC winch.
06-02-2006, 05:02 PM
#27
Originally Posted by Crazy Canuck
The major problem with doing the above is that because such a small wire is used very little current can flow to charge the battery. You will have to do a hell of a lot of driving to charge a battery that is being used for a winch. Unless you are prepared to charge the battery periodically (buy a battery charger and wire it direct and plug it in every once in awhile) I still contend the solar panel is the easiest longer term solution because it requires zero effort after it's installed. This can be done for under $100 if you're handy.
the charge wire on any of the trucks is usually 12 or 14AWG so there's plenty of capacity and most of the trucks have huge alternators. Again, I've used both and both work.
06-02-2006, 06:51 PM
#28
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Originally Posted by Boulder GT3
either set up will work and I was going to install a solar panel for exactly the reasons you state. I ended up tight on time and couldn't find the right panel so I did the charge circuit and never went to solar because the wired cicuit worked. In practice, starting with a good battery you'll probably never have a discharge situation. You can do 10-15 load/unoad cycles and only see about .5 of a volt drop on the battery.
the charge wire on any of the trucks is usually 12 or 14AWG so there's plenty of capacity and most of the trucks have huge alternators. Again, I've used both and both work.
the charge wire on any of the trucks is usually 12 or 14AWG so there's plenty of capacity and most of the trucks have huge alternators. Again, I've used both and both work.
Starting with a good battery is key.
What tends to happen though is when you need to use the equipment the damn battery is dead. That'll really **** you off.
