Best platform for building track/race 911
#16
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
IF you plan to race, step one is to pick the class you want to race in and go from there.
If you ultimately plan to do PCA, then the rule of thumb is pretty much the cost goes up with class, so an I or H class 944 is probably your best overall cost bet.
Bang for the buck, I'd have to say an F-Stock Euro SC or 3.2 Carrara is a great choice as the cars are relatively "inexpensive" to run and the competition in F is excellent.
Finally, buy vs build is always the rule.... a built car is not only potentially cheaper, but also has a documented "track record" if you will... race results are posted on the PCA Club Racing Web Site.... so no BS... there are always guys with very well sorted H, G, F, and E cars moving up and selling.... stay patient and buy a proven podium car.... you'lll be WAY ahead in the long run...
That said, have the car checked out carefully... a used race car is just that... it may be immaculate or just about used up, so you need to have it checked over by an expert. Frequently, if you contact one of the more reputable car builders, they often have customers who want to sell cars, and they know the entire history of the car... that is a big plus, as you know it was done correctly
Finally, watch out for "DE" cars... they frequently have modifications..... stuff like swapped engines, swapped gear-boxes, non-stock injections systems, fiberglass body panels... who knows what...that will put them in Prepared or even GT classes where they will not be competitive
Go on the PCA Club Racing website and get a copy of the rules.... that will tell you what is legal.
If you ultimately plan to do PCA, then the rule of thumb is pretty much the cost goes up with class, so an I or H class 944 is probably your best overall cost bet.
Bang for the buck, I'd have to say an F-Stock Euro SC or 3.2 Carrara is a great choice as the cars are relatively "inexpensive" to run and the competition in F is excellent.
Finally, buy vs build is always the rule.... a built car is not only potentially cheaper, but also has a documented "track record" if you will... race results are posted on the PCA Club Racing Web Site.... so no BS... there are always guys with very well sorted H, G, F, and E cars moving up and selling.... stay patient and buy a proven podium car.... you'lll be WAY ahead in the long run...
That said, have the car checked out carefully... a used race car is just that... it may be immaculate or just about used up, so you need to have it checked over by an expert. Frequently, if you contact one of the more reputable car builders, they often have customers who want to sell cars, and they know the entire history of the car... that is a big plus, as you know it was done correctly
Finally, watch out for "DE" cars... they frequently have modifications..... stuff like swapped engines, swapped gear-boxes, non-stock injections systems, fiberglass body panels... who knows what...that will put them in Prepared or even GT classes where they will not be competitive
Go on the PCA Club Racing website and get a copy of the rules.... that will tell you what is legal.
#17
Instructor
Thread Starter
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: Houston
Posts: 193
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
the 88 coupe is in miami, and the other RSA is at Pro Technik. I saw the red RSA, and it is a nice car. Either can be had with extra wheelsets for about $45k. I am probably 2-3 months or more away from taking the plunge, so you won't be competing with me. Good luck.
#18
Nordschleife Master
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
I would not pay the premium for a RSA over a normal C2. The RSA has very few real performance modifications. That said, if you can get a completely prepared C class RSA for $45k, that's a good deal. Fully prepared would need to include complete monball suspension, motons or something similar, cage, seats, harnesses, back brace, FG front & rea bumpers, headers & race exhaust. If the engine has been done, probably more like $50k. But if it is just has a few mods and some extra wheels, that's way too high. If you are going to build a car, start with a normal 964, since the premium you pay will be completely gone once you race prep it.
#19
Rennlist
Basic Site Sponsor
Basic Site Sponsor
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Originally Posted by 38D
if you can get a completely prepared C class RSA for $45k, that's a good deal. Fully prepared would need to include complete monball suspension, motons or something similar, cage, seats, harnesses, back brace, FG front & rea bumpers, headers & race exhaust. If the engine has been done, probably more like $50k.
![Big Grin](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/smilies/biggrin.gif)
__________________
Larry Herman
2016 Ford Transit Connect Titanium LWB
2018 Tesla Model 3 - Electricity can be fun!
Retired Club Racer & National PCA Instructor
Past Flames:
1994 RS America Club Racer
2004 GT3 Track Car
1984 911 Carrera Club Racer
1974 914/4 2.0 Track Car
CLICK HERE to see some of my ancient racing videos.
Larry Herman
2016 Ford Transit Connect Titanium LWB
2018 Tesla Model 3 - Electricity can be fun!
Retired Club Racer & National PCA Instructor
Past Flames:
1994 RS America Club Racer
2004 GT3 Track Car
1984 911 Carrera Club Racer
1974 914/4 2.0 Track Car
CLICK HERE to see some of my ancient racing videos.
#20
Nordschleife Master
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Originally Posted by Larry Herman
Colin, are you talking about my car? ![Big Grin](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/smilies/biggrin.gif)
![Big Grin](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/smilies/biggrin.gif)
#22
Rennlist
Basic Site Sponsor
Basic Site Sponsor
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Mark, make sure that they are PCA legal, if you plan to run that venue. There are some out there that have illegal motor parts which can be verified by the scrutineers. It would be a shame to buy such a car, and then have to rebuild the motor because it had the wrong pistons or cams in it. Also, be sure to place a value on the spares that you get with it. I figure that I got about $15K in spares with my car. It's nice to have lots of extra wheels, brake pads, rotors, etc.