Reynard38

With the career looking a lot more secure now I am getting serious about a track toy. My criteria is as follows:

1. 911
2. Needs to be just barely street legal (in Georgia this gives you a lot of lattiude)
3. 81 or older (no emmisions inspection)
3. I love the looks of the RSR's with the ducktail.

I have several years of experience in Shifterkarts and Formula 2000. I want to be able to drive to the track, have fun and then drive home. No truck or trailer involved. I will not track my '97 Carerra "S" and no it's not for sale.
I can do both mechanical and body work, and don't mind "sweat equity" in the car as my funds are not unlimited.
Those of you out there with experience doing these events please chime in.

Larry Herman

Get an SC. Most bang for the buck, easy to work on & can be made fairly quick without bankrupting your budget.

JBH

I think Chris Brown has an RSR replica for sale. I don't know if it is street legal, but you can contact him directly. His Rennlist name is RSRRacer

Reynard38

Thanks guys. While I was up at the Walter Mitty yesterday (at Road Atlanta) I looked at a '69 911 that was for sale. Very nicely done car, Gulf colors 2 liter. What blew me away was the price...$65,000 dollars!!
Does a vintage pedigree make that much difference? If I don't want to put my $50,000 993 on the track I am sure as hell not going to put 65K out there!

Gary R.

Get a solid, stock SC and build it up for the track gradually, starting with safety equipment like seats, cage, and harnesses. Then add the front mount oil cooler and lighter bumper, 31/23mm torsion bars, re-valved Bilsteins, Smart Racing sways and camber bar, alignment/corner balance and semi-aggressive camber (so you don't eat your tires on the way to the track). Once you start it's going to eat money like a crazed Manhatten trophy wife so be prepared!

mooty

good idea, but that doesn't really ease the pain. i belive earlyapex did exactly that and teh bill is 50k now and he's not done yet. but the car is hell nice though.

Boulder GT3

Amen. You can end up with a nice car but if you really keep track of the mods the tab can be pretty scarey even with sweat equity. Plus you end up having to haul the car everywhere, it's down a lot and so on. I'm of the camp that says buy the car that is closest to what you absolutely want and take the time you save to work more at your primary income if that's feasible.

Gary R.

That can work as long as you know the difference between a properly built car and one that isn't.. I have seen a lot of cars for sale advertised as "set up track cars" when I was looking (and are out there now) that were, as I learned later, about as far from correctly built as humanly possible. I took the road of finding an "approved" doner car and having a top builder of older cars transform it as I obviously had no clue what was good and what wasn't at the time. I ended up spending about $5K more than what some of these other cars were asking but I know EXACTLY what is in the car and it performs well beyond my meager ability...
Couldn't be happier with the result.

mooty

gary, you are right in your logic.
i am that way too, though some disagrees, i like to build it up with known quantity, the donar car, the parts and the builder....

i do try best to ignore the receipts.

Boulder GT3

Fair enough and you do have to know what you're looking for. You have to get invlolved in the club deal and try to find somebody that has taken years to build one and all of that qualitfication. it all takes time. when I went through a search for track cars the amount of bad ones was on the order of 90%. Many of them totally unsafe nevermind being well thought out cars. I prevailed with in the 10% but it was a PITA and has still cost me more than I thought.

Reynard38

Sounds like the SC gets a lot of nods. As for the building I really don't mind doing a good portion of the work. I share some shopspace with a couple of other car nuts and have access to a lift, welders, and ust about any tool that can be imagined. I am building a 2.1 liter 914-4 for a friend for auto-x now, just about to send the body out for paint after I did the rust repair.
It looks like there are a lot of options for bodywork for a SC out there. RSR style bumpers, fenders even the ducktail. I guess what I am looking for is a clean, but unloved SC. Don't care about the interior or paint. Front fenders can be rough as well. So long as it isn't eaten up with rust (like a 914!).
IS one year any better that the others? I do have a new set of Mahle Nicasil 95mm cylinders and pistons that I got for free. They were about to be thrown away from our old race shop when they were offered to me. I guess that saves me a few bucks off the price of a rebuild.
BTW what kind of power can a tuned 3 liter (that isn't subject to emmision testing) produce?

dave morris

IMO a '78 or '79 Euro non-sunroof is a good place to start. Not easy to find.

Palting

If you all don't mind, what sort of money would a "solid, stock SC" demand, if I found one?

dave morris

I've seen good donor SCs sell for $6 -8,000.

Gary R.

I think I paid $11K for mine and it had a freshly rebuilt 3.0 (top end and rod bearings/bolts) and 915 (by G. Fairbanks). 3rd gear is already "syncroless" after about 20 track days... ... and I REALLY need 3rd gear...