Fast82930

I'm in the process ordering an enclosed trailer (my first) and the dealer has limited Porsche expertise.

For those using D-Rings, where did you locate them? Is there any downside?

Did anyone go with flush mounted E-Track in the floor instead of D-Rings? Any downside?

Thanks

Lyall

sleder

I will only use D rings for the vehicle tie down, I use etrack for the ancillary items. BTW, Have the D rings installed by the trailer manufacturer and have them reinforced. Good luck! What kind did you get?

mikew968

Lyall:

I used D-rings at the front and rear of the trailer. I used aircraft track in the floor and on some of the walls.

on my 968 with my tow vehical i need to keep the weight off the tongue so i mount the rear D-rings about 12 from the rear and the front rings about 18"-24" off the front wall. Who is building your trailer?

Mike

Boulder GT3

I have both E track and D-rings in my trailer. I agree with the comment about using the E track for extra gear only. I still don't trust them to hold the car. the other thing that is a bit of a nit about the E track is that it traps debris.

Depending on your tow vehicle, you need to figure out where the car will sit to determine where you want the tie downs. For example, if you have a rear heavy 911 and a pretty stout tow vehicle you'll want the car up for more tounge weight. I am also a big fan of crossing the tie downs in the back to keep the car from bouncing sideways. If the tie downs are too far back you can't cross the tie downs. Great idea of figuring it out in advance. I learned through trial and error but it's really nice to have a trailer that's well set up.

Cory M

You can make your life a lot easier if you spend some time properly locating the D-rings. . I use the factory tie down points. Our front straps are fixed length with hooks on each and and the rear straps are ratcheting. So it is really easy to load: you just drive up and hook up the front, let it roll back, hook up and tighten with the rear ratcheting straps and you're done. Everything is set to the right length so there is no need to readjust.

Chaos

Extra D rings can be help ful.

Larry Herman

I saw what Tom Sunday Carriers had on their trucks and it was a pretty neat setup. They used vertical e-track (with the slots running the long way =-=-=-=-=) and had a belt system that they strapped over the tire, and then out from under the car. That put the ratchets in front of and behind the car, easily accessible. The driver clipped down my car in just a few minutes, and he claimed that they have never had a car move with this system. I do agree about dirt in the e-track, and you may not like walking on it going into and out of your tralier.

Fast82930

Thanks for all the feedback.

For those who asked, I ended up going with a 20' Wells Cargo Auto Wagon to tow my 1982 930.

I was sold on an ATC but they are 12 weeks out and the cost to ship it to Seattle is almost $2600. There's a Wells Cargo dealer nearby who got me an end of March production slot at the Ogden Utah plant.

Based on multiple queries I will be going with the 5k lb. D-Rings installed by the factory.

I'm planning to use the tie down loops that attach to the bottom of the rear shock bolt and front A-arms and measured these points last night.

New Question: How far from the cars tie down points should the D-Rings be placed?

Thanks again.

Lyall

MRW

Lyall-
1. Good call on the Wells Cargo. I did a lot of research a year and a half ago, and like you, loved the ATC, but it was way more pricey. I ended up ordering a 22 ft Wells w/ cabinets in the front. Hope you ordered the 10,000#GVW model (has heavier duty axles).

2. I have 4-6,000# D-rings, rears are 1 ft in from rear of trailer and 18" in from sides. Worked out perfectly for 944TS in the rear- I attach to loops on shock mount (forget where I bought them- di a google). Fronts are mounted 3 feet back from cabinet face, 18" out from sides. In retrospect, I wish I had mounted those closer to the cabinet face, but my arrangement works OK, in the I anchor to the tow hook in the front.

3. One item that you should absolutely order is the electric jack. The deep cycle battery (charges while you tow the trailer) and the jack togetherwere about $500 list, and you'll thank your foresight every time you connect and disconnect from your tow vehicle.

4. I also had a winch installed, which I think is a godsend for loading and unloading the car (means you never have to wedge your way in and out around the cage with the door half open). Also, if the car ever breaks, it's way easier to load it up than finding a suffcient number of pals to push.

I added a few other things which I'd be happy to share, but these are the big items. Let men know if you need anyuthing else.

Cheers.

MW

Boulder GT3

Great point on the winch. I just put one in my trailer and it falls into the "how did I live without this" catagory.

Cory M

The electric jack is great to have. You can also use it to raise the nose of the trailer when loading and unloading to lower the ramp angle, very handy with a really low car.

Fast82930

Thanks again guys.

MW, I considered the axle upgrade but with a 20' trailer and a sub 2600lb car I think I'll be ok.

I did order the factory installed Superwinch and recessed 100amp 12v deep cycle system. I hadn't even considered the electric jack but it sounds like a great option. The 100amp upgrade gives me 6 circuits to work with so I might as well use them up.

Please feel free to share other "must have" & "nice to have" options.

Lyall

Cory M

Must have (for me anyway):
Gas can rack
tire rack
PitPal type oil/aerosol can/paper towel rack mounted to door
At least 1 preferably 2 spare trailer tires

Nice to have:
Stabilizer bar system for trailer (box mounted on trailer tongue to hold this stuff and the hitch is nice)
E-track on walls to hold awning/chairs/table/creeper
bar or hooks on wall to hold tie downs, clothes,etc
Nitorgen bottle or small compressor
Cordless impact gun

(Most of this is available at Summit Racing at very good prices)

earlyapex

Lyall,

I used a scale drawing to locate the ideal points for my D-rings. The trailer manufacturer was able to help me in this regard and it turned out great. I trailer my SC as far to the rear of the trailer as I can in order to get the weight distribution right. I have the D-rings on the rear edge of the trailer and a couple of feet from the forward edge, and in line with the inner part of the tires.

Fast82930

Thanks Cory and Eric.

I'm placing my D-rings 26" from the nose, 12" from the tail and 20" from the sides.

All the "must have" items are on my list. I also checked the PitPal web site, it's a candy store for trailers.

Lyall