Towing with a Tahoe?
02-09-2006, 09:23 PM
#16
As I said before I tow with a 99 Tahoe. Yes the brakes are not as good as the late model with 4 wheel disk brakes but with a trailer with electric brakes with proper settings on the brake controller I have no issue with poor braking when towing a trailer. In fact I find that the trailer does so much of the braking that the truck stops better with the trailer in tow. Never tow @80mph (might hit htat when passing someone) but it pulls through the mountains at 70 or 75 with no problem.
02-10-2006, 04:01 AM
#18
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Hi all - I'll add onto what's already been stated here with a couple of addional comments. A vehicle like a Tahoe certainly has the capability to tow an open trailer with a Porsche on it quite adequately IF you take the right safety precautions and are aware of the truck/trailer limitations. Here are a few things that I would suggest doing:
Trailer brakes - have these professionally serviced to be SURE that they are working effectively. If you're not sure how to set them, consult someone who does.
Weight distributing hitch - this is an absolute must. I tow with an Excursion and I would never do so without this. It will help your truck brake more effectively and will also help with potential sway issues as well as helping overcome the less than optimal springs that are on everything other than 3/4 ton and 1 ton trucks.
Truck brakes - just like the trailer brakes, make sure you have fresh brake fluid and that you're using better than stock pads with good rotors.
Stopping distance - if you've never had to do this, take the truck and loaded trailer onto a relatively open road with a downhill grade and drive at about 70 mph. Hit the brakes as if you're in a panic stop situation. You will be amazed at the distance required to slow the rig down. Depending on your load and setup it may feel like you're not even slowing down for the first couple of seconds. Make note of this and realize how much distance you need to give yourself and how far ahead you need to be looking. This will also tell you how well your braking setup is working - does it pull, lock up, fade, etc.
Other things to consider - better shocks and springs, sway controller, bigger sway bars, different brake controller (I use the Tekonsha Prodigy and love it).
You can never have too much towing capacity, power or brakes when towing even a moderate load. Hopefully you'll never be in a situation where your rig will be tested to it's limit, but if you tow enough miles eventually you will.
Good luck!
steve
'87 911 PCA E
'95 993
Trailer brakes - have these professionally serviced to be SURE that they are working effectively. If you're not sure how to set them, consult someone who does.
Weight distributing hitch - this is an absolute must. I tow with an Excursion and I would never do so without this. It will help your truck brake more effectively and will also help with potential sway issues as well as helping overcome the less than optimal springs that are on everything other than 3/4 ton and 1 ton trucks.
Truck brakes - just like the trailer brakes, make sure you have fresh brake fluid and that you're using better than stock pads with good rotors.
Stopping distance - if you've never had to do this, take the truck and loaded trailer onto a relatively open road with a downhill grade and drive at about 70 mph. Hit the brakes as if you're in a panic stop situation. You will be amazed at the distance required to slow the rig down. Depending on your load and setup it may feel like you're not even slowing down for the first couple of seconds. Make note of this and realize how much distance you need to give yourself and how far ahead you need to be looking. This will also tell you how well your braking setup is working - does it pull, lock up, fade, etc.
Other things to consider - better shocks and springs, sway controller, bigger sway bars, different brake controller (I use the Tekonsha Prodigy and love it).
You can never have too much towing capacity, power or brakes when towing even a moderate load. Hopefully you'll never be in a situation where your rig will be tested to it's limit, but if you tow enough miles eventually you will.
Good luck!
steve
'87 911 PCA E
'95 993
02-10-2006, 10:18 AM
#19
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I appreciate all of the great advice. I am going to try to work a deal in the next few days. Looks like the weak spot is obviously the brakes. I found out that the Tahoe has the Z82 package which is the heavy duty trailering option which I believe includes a weight dist. hitch. I have always thought that the surge brakes on my trailex worked fine but looks like I need to put Hawks on the truck. I have also seen heavier "helper" springs for the rears that I am told work well. I will let everyone know how it goes. Thanks again everyone!
02-10-2006, 04:09 PM
#20
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I also tow with a 1996 Tahoe, the brakes are the weak point. Otherwise it's been good. I tow a 2600lb car with a 2k trailer with dual electric brakes.
After 100k on the Tahoe I've replaced:
Radiator
Transmission (rblt)
Fuel Pump
Water Pump
Water breather fitting at top of engine, common failure on all Vortec 350's.
I'm now selling it, need 2 car trailer and tow vehicle now.
After 100k on the Tahoe I've replaced:
Radiator
Transmission (rblt)
Fuel Pump
Water Pump
Water breather fitting at top of engine, common failure on all Vortec 350's.
I'm now selling it, need 2 car trailer and tow vehicle now.
02-10-2006, 09:06 PM
#21
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Well, I bought it tonight. 1997, 60K miles, very good condition. One strange thing, it has a weight distributing hitch but no plug for the brakes/lights. I am sure that I can get it wired but I was surprised that it did not have it from the factory.
02-10-2006, 09:21 PM
#22
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An RV shop can do it for you, though I did mine myself. You'll have to buy and wire in the 7-blade RV-style connector. The wiring harness, assuming it has never been used, is taped up out of the way on the inside of the left frame rail, to the left of the spare. On the other end, most of the wires are already connected except for the brake (blue) and auxilary wire (white, IIRC). I connected the white to one of the circuit-breaker protected terminals on the underhood fuse/relay center, and ran the blue wire back into the cab to connect to my Tekonsha Prodigy controller.
Most car haulers I've seen have electric brakes, but if yours has surge brakes, you can get away with a "T-connector" that inserts itself into the rear tail-light wiring harness and be done with it. Towing both a car hauler and a boat with surge brakes, I prefer the electric brakes (unfortunately not so great for boat trailers dipped in salt water)
One more thing to confirm...even though the vehichle was equipped with a WD hitch platform, confirm that it has an auxilary transmission cooler. They didn't all come that way (mine didn't). The factory cooler is run in series with the tranny cooler built into the right-side radiator end-tank--you should be able to see the small heat-exchanger thru the front grill.
Most car haulers I've seen have electric brakes, but if yours has surge brakes, you can get away with a "T-connector" that inserts itself into the rear tail-light wiring harness and be done with it. Towing both a car hauler and a boat with surge brakes, I prefer the electric brakes (unfortunately not so great for boat trailers dipped in salt water)
One more thing to confirm...even though the vehichle was equipped with a WD hitch platform, confirm that it has an auxilary transmission cooler. They didn't all come that way (mine didn't). The factory cooler is run in series with the tranny cooler built into the right-side radiator end-tank--you should be able to see the small heat-exchanger thru the front grill.
02-16-2006, 12:54 AM
#24
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Congrats on your Tahoe! I trailer a 20' enclosed with a '99 'burban.
X2 ... big time. I recommend and do manually adjust when I rotate wheels / tires every 5K. Tahoes / Suburbans are famous for cupping tires [towing or not]. Earls or Russell makes SS brake lines and John B.'s rec for weston / hawk pads is a good one.
Couple of known issues you will face:
1. Vortec 350 Intake manifold gaskets [felpro has an upgrade]
2. Fuel pump failure around 100K [mostly blamed on poor fuel filter maintenance]
3. AC Delco battery post separation / failure [positive or negative]
4. POS pot metal heater hose inlet to the intake manifold [replace with brass / better NPT to 1/2" ID barb piece to forget about it ]
Your build codes are on the back side of the glove compartment door. Can decode and see how optioned from the factory [assuming no-one removed parts
]
Jason
In addition to better pads, check
the rear drum self-adjusters--they often don't, because they corrode and freeze up.
the rear drum self-adjusters--they often don't, because they corrode and freeze up.
Couple of known issues you will face:
1. Vortec 350 Intake manifold gaskets [felpro has an upgrade]
2. Fuel pump failure around 100K [mostly blamed on poor fuel filter maintenance]
3. AC Delco battery post separation / failure [positive or negative]
4. POS pot metal heater hose inlet to the intake manifold [replace with brass / better NPT to 1/2" ID barb piece to forget about it ]
Your build codes are on the back side of the glove compartment door. Can decode and see how optioned from the factory [assuming no-one removed parts
]Jason
02-16-2006, 01:32 AM
#25
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I just upgraded my tow vehicle from a little M-B ML430 to a Chevy 2500HD Duramax. Not as nice a ride but most the comforts and a hell of a lot more tow capacity. I pick up the new 24' trailer this weekend. All should be set for returning to the track the following week with 3 days at Sears Point/Infineon. I can't wait.
02-16-2006, 11:35 AM
#26
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More great advice,Jason thanks. I picked it up last night. In the short 10 miles home, I am very impressed. It is really comfortable and quieter than I expected. With and without the rear seats folded I will have tons of room for all of my track junk. I am anxious to get the hitch wired so I can give it a tow test. The dealer had changed the oil filter, adjusted the rear brakes and installed a new idler arm. I am swithing to all synthetic fluids per my mechanic, new front brakes and possibly helper springs for the rear. I am usually stir crazy this time of year to get on track and this thing is now making it worse! Mid Ohio wont come soon enough.....
02-16-2006, 03:04 PM
#27
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Arkadi:
Mine is a K1500 or "half-ton" and I installed aftermarket roller shackle helper springs called "supersprings". Easy install and not really noticeable when unloaded. When loaded ... picksup the extra weight and keeps truck almost perfectly level. Does not increase axle capacity but ... does do what they advertise.
Here is their site: http://www.supersprings.com/
This is the above the axle install ... what you'll be doing if you get them.
Praisedynobrake.com is hailed as the saving grace for the pre 2000 tahoe / burban / C1500 trucks [on GM / Chevy forums]. They have the "trick" spring kit for the R drums your mechanic might be installing.
Cheers,
Jason
Pic of the installed supersprings:
Mine is a K1500 or "half-ton" and I installed aftermarket roller shackle helper springs called "supersprings". Easy install and not really noticeable when unloaded. When loaded ... picksup the extra weight and keeps truck almost perfectly level. Does not increase axle capacity but ... does do what they advertise.
Here is their site: http://www.supersprings.com/
This is the above the axle install ... what you'll be doing if you get them.
Praisedynobrake.com is hailed as the saving grace for the pre 2000 tahoe / burban / C1500 trucks [on GM / Chevy forums]. They have the "trick" spring kit for the R drums your mechanic might be installing.
Cheers,
Jason
Pic of the installed supersprings:
02-16-2006, 05:06 PM
#28
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I tow with an 03 Avalanche 2wd with “nivomat” rear shocks.
My trailer is a 20” enclosed ATC at 2550#’s and my car at 1900# plus equipment. It tows well but struggles for power. I could change the R/P but with “the hills” in Florida I guess its not necessary.
It does sway with 18 wheelers if you are towing at 80MPH which I think its insane anyway…
I have and recommend a Tekonsha Prodigy and even though I have the HD towing package, I added the 4wd HD transmission cooler. Before I did, it blew the rear retainer after towing from Sebring to Ft. Lauderdale at an even 70MPH for a couple of hours. (quite a mess…..).
My trailer is a 20” enclosed ATC at 2550#’s and my car at 1900# plus equipment. It tows well but struggles for power. I could change the R/P but with “the hills” in Florida I guess its not necessary.
It does sway with 18 wheelers if you are towing at 80MPH which I think its insane anyway…
I have and recommend a Tekonsha Prodigy and even though I have the HD towing package, I added the 4wd HD transmission cooler. Before I did, it blew the rear retainer after towing from Sebring to Ft. Lauderdale at an even 70MPH for a couple of hours. (quite a mess…..).
