heel and toe or side of the foot-ball of the foot. What has worked for you guys? Stock is not so good especially when compared to my M3.

 

Vosstek track pedal using the side of the ball of the foot has worked very well for me. The pedal is fairly thick, and is installed on top of the stock throttle pedal, so combined with adjusting the brake pedal height a bit, you can get very good alignment between the brake and throttle pedals.

 

The throttle pedal is adjustable. Stock works great, but keep in mind that if you set it up to heel-and-toe on the street, it will not be set up to work on a track. But why would anyone want to brake that hard on public roads?

(Heel-and-toe rarely means using your heel or toe, at least in my experience.)

 

I have a Vosstek aftermarket setup - have been using it for years now. HOWEVER: the throttle pedal is 'reverse-L' shaped, and if the brake pedal requires more travel (as is often the case after half a session of lapping), there is a possibility of hitting the lower portion of the throttle pedal under threshold braking. Well, as least in my case.

That said, I will be hacking off that little bit of the throttle pedal that sticks out underneath the brake pedal before going back out on the track.

Just my experience,
-Z

 

I have a set of gripping aluminum pedals, but never installed them. I just learned to adapt to any car I am in that way. Much easier to drive OPP's that way.

 

I bought the Vosstek pedals more for the pointed ridges in the aluminum that hold your shoe firmly on the pedal-slipped off the OEM rubber ones a couple times when my shoes were wet, scary. Gotten to where this set up is second nature in use, though the occassional "other" drivers usually freakout how close I put the brake and gas pedals. Adjusted them several times until I got just what I wanted.
Nick

 

You can also buy a pedal cover from the dealer and screw it on. Cheap and effective. About 8 bucks as I recall.

 

This version cost me nothing - already had paint, plywood scrap, and 4 drywall screws... works like a charm, and doesn't look too bad either

 

Here's what I did: My car came with billet Aluminum covers for the clutch and brake. In my project plan, I need a dead pedal and thought I'd look at gas pedal to help me with heel and toe (for the day I try to learn it).

For fun, I decided I'd try to make a pedal cover that would bring the brake and gas pedal a little closer. I have nothing against the stock pedal. But I have tiny feet and the few times I've tried heel and toe, too many neurons were required for the ballet maneuver I needed to keep pressure on the brake (critical) and find a way to blip the throttle.

It would be neat to fully replace the stock pedal, but today's experiment is about pedal shape - later after I find a ball joint mount and the right kind of hinge I might try that. So I found a piece of scrap aluminum, and started cutting.

I took heed of the advice to avoid the reverse "L" shape, as in a panic stop the heel might hit the throttle. That seems bad. So I wanted to emulate the Vertex and Rennline pedals by extending the left edge down reasonably far.

At this point, the real engineers and product design folks probably ought to shield their eyes. I'm a hack at best -- and I didn't even have all the proper tools to do this just right. But here goes:



The screws are countersunk stainless with nylock nuts. I radiused the many holes in my somewhat random pattern. Once I get a seat bolted in, I'll see how it works. And once I start learning how to heel-toe, we'll see if it helps.

Though there are a number of after market pedals, ranging from the $65 Rennline street pedal on up, it's fun to take a zero cost piece of scrap aluminum and create something useful. My next "home cooking" projects are a dead pedal and aluminum floorboards to level the floor.

Don

 

well, I had no idea that my brake pedal was adjustable. Is there alot of range for adjustment?
I love the home engineered stuff!!! I try to do as much of the same as possible.
Thanks for the input.
Scott