930man

i can stand behind SRF... i used on my 997 never boiled... used all season ,,, never bleed the system... calipers got so hot on vir south the calipers began to leak but fluid was fine

DrJupeman

See, given that I change Motul after every event it isn't hard to justify the cost of SRF if one doesn't need to bleed as often. This is not an area that I will skimp on cost or time, but if SRF is that good, then why not.

Thanks all for the endorsements. I will consider SRF this season. I clearly have the fat pig car to justify its use! My friends don't call it "Tubbo" for nothing...

Eric in Chicago

Ok, here is a dumb question, if you have ATE in the system, do you need 2 cans of SRF to get a proper flush of the system? (one for the flush and 1 to fill it back up)

APKhaos

I did. Results were marginal after the first flush. Suspect I still had some ATE in the brake system [ABS plumbing] and the clutch circuit. SRF is chemically incompatible with non-synthetic fluids.

Life was good after the second flush. No bleeding, rock solid.

Flat Top

Problem with a long brake pedal (that is the result of boiling fluid) is the longer term influence on the confidence level of the driver. It takes a while to brake at your markers if you nearly had an "off" after furiously pumping the pedal and barely making it around the corner. I only use SRF. Never had a problem.

kurt M

SRF is fully miscible with all DOT 3 and 4 fluids. It is not based on glycols as most other fluids are but it can be mixed with other fluids without any reaction problems. The results will not be as good as pure SRF as the lesser fluid will act as a weak link so to speak. The best thing to do is charge the brake system with SRF after a complete rebuild and cleaning. Short of this you can vacuum evacuate the existing system and then charge with SRF. Drive the car and get all components to cycle to mix the new with any remaining older fluid and repeat the vacuum flush and charge. Pressure flush is more of a dilution method than vacuum removal. Nether method will get it all out in one shot and vacuum will require more work in air removal. You can jump the ABS pump on some of the systems in order to cycle the fluids but other than a teardown there will be some glycol based fluids remaining. It would be good if you could test for Glycols and this would let you know how effective the change was. I would bet that even a diluted by glycol SRF charge will be better than a pure glycol based fill and each time you flush and replace with SRF there will be less and less glycols in the system. How much less depends on the methods used and the complexity of the system.

SRF acts differently to moisture than the glycols. It does absorb moisture but to a lesser extent and with less loss of boiling point % for %

George A

One thing I did for peace of mind is add temperature strips to my calipers. If I ever see temps above 470F, I'll do a quick bleed. Have yet to get them that hot.

I get a negative reaction locally when I taught the virtues of SRF. I always get, "too expensive", "ATE is just as good", "I don't need anything THAT good". I guess to me in the larger scheme of things, $70 per year is miniscule compared to just about every other thing on my car. Ok, you might need two bottles the first time, $140. Heck, I would pay more than $140 a year just so that I don't have to bleed after every event.

Finally, if you buy in bulk, you can get pretty good discounts. Typically, several of us go in on a case of SRF, which equates to about $55 per bottle.

George