Too much trail braking?
#1
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Too much trail braking?
Last weekend at Homestead, I corded the outside edge of the front right tire. I am using MPSC's. The rest of the tire has most of its tread left. The outside edge of the left front is wearing thin as well.
I probably need more negative camber but is it possible to be trailbraking too hard? I am somewhat new to my 996 but to get the car rotated, I have to trail brake quite hard.
What do you think?
I probably need more negative camber but is it possible to be trailbraking too hard? I am somewhat new to my 996 but to get the car rotated, I have to trail brake quite hard.
What do you think?
#3
Race Car
Wasn't the precurser to this thread a week or two ago? The discussion was about you not being able to change the factory suspension and not being able to get the handleing characteristics you were after? What did you do with the tire pressures? Up, down or nothing and what were the pressures cold? You should be able to get 1 1/2* negative camber out of the factory camber location......no? Are you slowing down before the corner to exit faster? Or trying to trail through everything?
Sounds to me like no camber up front, tires to inflated and to aggressive a style driving for what you have to work with.........but thats just .00002.5 cents
Sounds to me like no camber up front, tires to inflated and to aggressive a style driving for what you have to work with.........but thats just .00002.5 cents
#4
Is there any possibility you're rotating the car by "flat tracking" it (ie: throwing at the corner under braking) where you might be rotating it with (earlier) power?
Regards to all.
Regards to all.
#7
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Mitch - is it only the front? How about the rear outside shoulder?
I agree with Chris' comment aboout too wide tires, pressure may also be a factor. I assume you were running MPSC arouond 34 lbs hot? Are they new? As the Cup tire gets older it takes longer and longer to heat them up .. could this mean too low a pressure for 'n' laps on an (dunno) abrasive track?
If it is merely camber, you can get more by simply grinding the slots in the top shock mounts a little more. You should be good for around Neg 2 deg. - it varies from car to car.
Best,
I agree with Chris' comment aboout too wide tires, pressure may also be a factor. I assume you were running MPSC arouond 34 lbs hot? Are they new? As the Cup tire gets older it takes longer and longer to heat them up .. could this mean too low a pressure for 'n' laps on an (dunno) abrasive track?
If it is merely camber, you can get more by simply grinding the slots in the top shock mounts a little more. You should be good for around Neg 2 deg. - it varies from car to car.
Best,
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Thanks for all the input. Chris, you are right. I am running 245's on the stock 17" wheels which I assume are 8" (I'm not sure).
Cold pressures were 29. I shoot for 35 hot.
I am having the towers ground as we speak since that is allowed under our rules (it is still "stock") and is being done to imrove costs.
So are you saying Chris, that I am going to be fighting this unless I swap out the front wheels? Do you think the increased negative camber will help?
BTW, I am trailbraking very aggresively which I assume beats the h@ll out of the outside edges. The rears are fine.
Cold pressures were 29. I shoot for 35 hot.
I am having the towers ground as we speak since that is allowed under our rules (it is still "stock") and is being done to imrove costs.
So are you saying Chris, that I am going to be fighting this unless I swap out the front wheels? Do you think the increased negative camber will help?
BTW, I am trailbraking very aggresively which I assume beats the h@ll out of the outside edges. The rears are fine.
#9
More camber and pressure will help but they are not the real solution. If you have an 8 inch wheel get 225s. I'll bet they will be faster.
If you have the same wheel/tire combo in the back and don't have the problem, you probably have too much understeer. If this is the case, and you can then improve the car's balance, the tire issues will be less severe.
Chris Cervelli
Premier Motorsports
If you have the same wheel/tire combo in the back and don't have the problem, you probably have too much understeer. If this is the case, and you can then improve the car's balance, the tire issues will be less severe.
Chris Cervelli
Premier Motorsports
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I'll try the 225's this time but the car has so much understeer as it is, I'm afraid it will be worse. I don't want to modify the chassis any (or suspension).
Oh well.....
Oh well.....
#11
Mitch,
Also take a look at your front toe settings, since you mentioned you have too much understeer that can be a toe in symptom. Have you tried zero or a little front toe out? Surely somebody has some track spec alignments to try. I agree with the other suggestions as well. Good luck dialing it in.
Also take a look at your front toe settings, since you mentioned you have too much understeer that can be a toe in symptom. Have you tried zero or a little front toe out? Surely somebody has some track spec alignments to try. I agree with the other suggestions as well. Good luck dialing it in.
#12
Race Car
Hey Mitch, as you know, Hmstd is mostly left handers... so its normal to wear out the Right sides early.
However, it does sound like more negative camber, or less tire width should help.
(have you run the 996 at sebring? thats a more evenly balanced track... ).
However, it does sound like more negative camber, or less tire width should help.
(have you run the 996 at sebring? thats a more evenly balanced track... ).
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Originally Posted by camber799
It's probably a camber issue. Before you go buying tires and wheels try the new camber settings. You'll probably find that will solve the problem.
I'm sure everything with you is camber!!
I'm sure you are right and I am exploring my options. One is to install camber plates and "grind" the tower (not the best choice but the least expensive), the other is to replace the lower control arms to GT-3 and then I can get more negative camber (the right, but more expensive, way to do it)