TD in DC

Several people have recommended to me that I bring Water Wetter to the track rather than anti-freeze because it performs better and is less slick if I dump it on the track.

Assuming that this is all true and not just some trick to keep others from losing track time on my account , what is the best way to use water wetter?

I read on their website that it does NOT decease the freezing point, which suggests to me that I would either need to have at least some antifreeze in the mix (e.g., 25%) or have different mixes for winter/summer.

Do others use one mix year round or do you use different mixes for summer and winter?

If you use different mixes, how do you make sure you don't run into problems for those late events (e.g., NNJR at VIR or Potomac at Shenandoah)? Obviously, freezing is a concern in DC.

If you use different mixes, is your summer mix just distilled water and water wetter, or do you also add a small mix of antifreeze?

If you use one mix year round, what proportion of liquids do you use?

As always, thanks in advance for your advice.

TD

P.S. I did search and there is a lot of information, but most is not for dedicated track cars in areas where freezing is of concern.

RedlineMan

Hey;

I have always used anti freeze. If you've got good hoses there should not be a problem. Besides, I've spent enough years slipping and sliding on 911 oil to worry about returning the favor and evening things out occasionally.

Still, I can see the merit of coolant replacements. I am running a Club Racer right now with about 25% antifreeze and Water Wetter. I WILL have to change it out for Fall, though.

Reporting live from Ottawa, Ontarion, Canada.
Heading for Tremblant presently!

TD in DC

Thanks John! I am so jealous . . . Have fun!

Also, when will you change out your coolant, and what will you switch to?

mrbill_fl

If you are not having trouble with temps, go w/ the antifreeze mix.

I was told:
pure water has better cooling properties than than a mix. but will rust your rad over time.
my race shop would substitute 3 drops of dish detergent for water wetter.


One thing to watch is your water pump is not cavitating at higher revs.
Often a larger diameter wheel is substituted to reduce revs.

*same for alt.... (more power...)


making a air box to force the air thru the rad has the biggest impact... imho.

Bill L Seifert

Most likely, your radiator isn't going to rust because it is aluminum and plastic, unless you drive a real old car. Also, Water Wetter works best just mixed with water, which means that close to winter you need to go back to antifreeze, depending on where you live. If you don't have an overheating problem, you don't need Water Wetter, modern antifreeze works better than water, as it doesn't boil until well over 212 degrees.

Bill Seifert

1987 944S Race Car

kurt M

Rust might not be a problem but dielectric corrosion truly is. There are many different metals in a 944 cooling system and they all have different nobility. The higher nobility metals will via dielectric activity degrade the lesser components. Good antifreeze has dielectric corrosion inhibitors that protect the metal components and thus offer more than boil over or freeze protection. Distilled water/glycol mix, all new rubber, metal heater valve to replace the plastic one is what I would do unless I was mandated to run water only in a race venue. Yes it is a bit slippy if it gets on the track but so is the 9 quarts of Mobil 1 in my car. IMHO The trick to being a courteous track rat is to do what is needed to best keep it in the car.

TD in DC

Thanks Guys! Kurt, as you know I have been infected with Leschanderitis so the chances of me arriving with run down hoses/poor maintenance is very low . . .

kurt M

Big difference between L-itis and good maintenance methods and practices! L-itis is changing out good stuff for other good stuff with the only real need being you have the time and $. Having the time is optional too.

TD in DC

Yes, but a side benefit -- rather "the" side benefit -- of Leschanderitis is that any part that could be bad will have already been swapped out for something new.

I plan to embrace the real Dorkiphus spirit by wrenching on this car. It is one thing to mess with a computerized car that is under warranty like my 996. It is a whole other thing to start wrenching on my '44. I can't wait to get my hands dirty again!

kurt M

Are you going to explain The Zen of Dorki to the Rennlisters?

TD in DC

I feel too wet behind the ears to do such a thing . . .

M758

I use water wetter and distilled water.
100% water provides the best cooling performance. Anti freez prevents freezing and boiling, but can't extract heat as well as pure water. You don't need to worry about boilding the water over 212F since it is under pressure and will not boil unless you get thing REALLY hot.

I don't run pure water since it can be hard on parts. One bottle of wetter provides a level of corrosion protection and lubrication that the parts need. Even on street cars here is nice to run 75% water 25% antifreeze for better cooling performance in the heat.

Of course here in Az I really don't concern myself with freezing. Not an issue when you are racing in the middle of January in 70F temps.

Or racing in May in 115F

Probably the best approach is to change on the season. In racing season run water and water wetter. For winter storage put in a standard 50/50. Just replace this come racing time and warmer weather.

If you are concerned about fringe events were it could get cold think about how cold? It would think it would need to be really cold for a while before the water froze. Maybe put a blanket over a warm engine just before you leave at night. I figure if it gets to 10F at night it would pretty damn cold during the day too.