Steering wheel vibration on braking, are my rotors warped ?
06-09-2005, 02:15 PM
#16
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Everything John said, and then try a pad like the Pagid RS-19 or RS-29. Order them by number, since they are both yellow, as are the stock 996 pads, so calling them Pagid Yellows won't help.
I've run orange on my 996 TT, just junk.
I've run RS-19 on my race car, awesome and durable, hard on the stock motorpsort rotors.
I'm running the RS-19 on my GT3, Brembo floating rotors on the front, stock rotors on the back. The rears will probably last me over a year. The fronts have 5 hard days on them so far, very little wear, no material transfer issues and very consistent braking.
Cheers,
Bruce
I've run orange on my 996 TT, just junk.
I've run RS-19 on my race car, awesome and durable, hard on the stock motorpsort rotors.
I'm running the RS-19 on my GT3, Brembo floating rotors on the front, stock rotors on the back. The rears will probably last me over a year. The fronts have 5 hard days on them so far, very little wear, no material transfer issues and very consistent braking.
Cheers,
Bruce
Last edited by brucegre; 06-09-2005 at 02:16 PM. Reason: Net Nanny didn't llike the words "hard on"
06-09-2005, 02:55 PM
#17
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Take Bruce's advice. I don't know how many times that this subject has been covered. For those of you who want to run PAGID pads on the track, RS-14 Black, RS-19 Yellow, or RS-29 Yellow ARE THE ONLY ONES TO USE! I have never heard of anyone having trouble with these compounds. Some people do successfully use the RS4-4 Oranges (like my son with his 951), but they are older technology and there have been other people who have had trouble with them, so they are not a certain thing. No other Pagid pad works on the track.
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Larry Herman
2016 Ford Transit Connect Titanium LWB
2018 Tesla Model 3 - Electricity can be fun!
Retired Club Racer & National PCA Instructor
Past Flames:
1994 RS America Club Racer
2004 GT3 Track Car
1984 911 Carrera Club Racer
1974 914/4 2.0 Track Car
CLICK HERE to see some of my ancient racing videos.
06-09-2005, 02:58 PM
#18
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I really appreciate you guy's taking the time to type all these, especially John for the informative lengthy narrative....
I was worried about the bedding procedure, I had my pads installed the same day I left to the track, I read the stuff that came with the brakes, and rennlist archives on bedding procedure. I tried to follow the instn. but braking from 70 to 35 on the hwy. is simply not possible, and the final steps of 120 and sudden bakes etc. with my current 8-points is unthinkable. So, I read here a long drive does the same, so I thought my 180 mile drive to the track would do the trick, but there was very limited use of the brakes on the hwy., so it's highly likely it wa the improper.
So, what do I do now ?....and how do I bed the pads properly next time, would a 60 min. drive on stop and go traffic do the trick.
In regards to cool down lap, other than the last cool down lap, I don't do any thing different, never was a problem with the OEM pads, and I do park the car in gear. May be I should do a longer cool down drive.
I am hoping I can still use the pads/rotor with no consequences till the pads wear down, and there is a fix for it. I was hoping ypu guy's would say a little bit of rattling is normal with pagids, but any how, I am taking the car to my mechanic and see.
I was worried about the bedding procedure, I had my pads installed the same day I left to the track, I read the stuff that came with the brakes, and rennlist archives on bedding procedure. I tried to follow the instn. but braking from 70 to 35 on the hwy. is simply not possible, and the final steps of 120 and sudden bakes etc. with my current 8-points is unthinkable. So, I read here a long drive does the same, so I thought my 180 mile drive to the track would do the trick, but there was very limited use of the brakes on the hwy., so it's highly likely it wa the improper.
So, what do I do now ?....and how do I bed the pads properly next time, would a 60 min. drive on stop and go traffic do the trick.
In regards to cool down lap, other than the last cool down lap, I don't do any thing different, never was a problem with the OEM pads, and I do park the car in gear. May be I should do a longer cool down drive.
I am hoping I can still use the pads/rotor with no consequences till the pads wear down, and there is a fix for it. I was hoping ypu guy's would say a little bit of rattling is normal with pagids, but any how, I am taking the car to my mechanic and see.
Last edited by Sanjeevan; 06-09-2005 at 03:18 PM.
06-09-2005, 03:33 PM
#19
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Originally Posted by jeeva
...so I thought my 180 mile drive to the track would do the trick, but there was very limited use of the brakes on the hwy., so it's highly likely it wa the improper.
....
....
I have a area about 15 min from my house that I use. A seldom used two lane road with no houses or trees (that a deer could jump out of) along it. I get the brakes up to temp using repeatly harder stops and then go for a 30 min drive on the highway out of the city (i.e. don't use the brakes for 30 minutes while travelling 70mph) to let them fully cool.
I use Pagid Orange and thay are VERY picky about bed-in. Get it wrong, and you get the evil vibrating rotor.
06-09-2005, 07:05 PM
#20
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Hey Jeev;
By all means, take Stacy's link to StopTech. And he's right on it. You did the clean off part by cruising, but never re-bedded to re-establish the transfer layer. Then you probably went out, got them too hot with no transfer layer, and got UNEVEN transfer.
Street cars are easy. For track cars, I do my bed in either at the track, or preferably borrow a dealer plate and do it on the interstate. I take a 12 mile loop. I do about 4 sets of 3-5 stops from 70-40 at perhaps 60% threshold, about a half-to-three-quarters mile in between for cooling. This has the pads boiling and gas-floating right off the rotors!
Cloverleaf, and on the return trip I repeat at about 80% threshold, shorter cool down in between, and then about 2 miles cool down to finish. "Clutch stop" at the shop and talk to the Cop that followed me all the way!
This has worked VERY well with PFC-97, Hawk Black, Blue, & Porterfield.
By all means, take Stacy's link to StopTech. And he's right on it. You did the clean off part by cruising, but never re-bedded to re-establish the transfer layer. Then you probably went out, got them too hot with no transfer layer, and got UNEVEN transfer.
Street cars are easy. For track cars, I do my bed in either at the track, or preferably borrow a dealer plate and do it on the interstate. I take a 12 mile loop. I do about 4 sets of 3-5 stops from 70-40 at perhaps 60% threshold, about a half-to-three-quarters mile in between for cooling. This has the pads boiling and gas-floating right off the rotors!
Cloverleaf, and on the return trip I repeat at about 80% threshold, shorter cool down in between, and then about 2 miles cool down to finish. "Clutch stop" at the shop and talk to the Cop that followed me all the way!
This has worked VERY well with PFC-97, Hawk Black, Blue, & Porterfield.
