In car racing video system???
04-15-2005, 09:04 PM
#16
Addict
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
Join Date: Dec 2001
Location: MA
Posts: 1,010
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
One other alternative to consider if you have the budget ($2800 list before Cams and tape) is the AIM DaVid. Full data logging with twin video inputs + virtual dash boards burned to the video stream in real time. One other interesting possibility in the mid-low end (~$500 with a bullet cam) in the solid state arena is an as yet to be released offering from ChaseCam which is fully solid state via CF cards. They been promising it for a while, but hopefully it will be available sometime this year. http://www.chasecam.com/pdr/
04-15-2005, 11:50 PM
#17
Intermediate
Join Date: Oct 2004
Location: Massachusetts
Posts: 26
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
It's true, that with more equipment people are putting
to use in the cars that wiring is an issue. Not everything
comes from the same company usually (especially with
people trying to save money or buying in stages) so
cabling is not optimized.
Luckily, if you hardwire you really only need to do it once,
then it's there; and not very complicated. The cigarette-
lighter route is there because there's a huge market for
this stuff for 'non-racers', too.
When I've talked to Randy at chasecam recently, he's said
he's trying to make his products more turnkey, like
combining power and signals and using DIN connectors
that all go together on his various pieces, and creating
extra power outputs on boxes.
Good luck!
Mark S.
In-car picture-in-picture
'70 914-6
to use in the cars that wiring is an issue. Not everything
comes from the same company usually (especially with
people trying to save money or buying in stages) so
cabling is not optimized.
Luckily, if you hardwire you really only need to do it once,
then it's there; and not very complicated. The cigarette-
lighter route is there because there's a huge market for
this stuff for 'non-racers', too.
When I've talked to Randy at chasecam recently, he's said
he's trying to make his products more turnkey, like
combining power and signals and using DIN connectors
that all go together on his various pieces, and creating
extra power outputs on boxes.
Good luck!
Mark S.
In-car picture-in-picture
'70 914-6
Last edited by mskala; 04-15-2005 at 11:57 PM. Reason: signature disappearing sometimes!
04-16-2005, 02:05 AM
#18
Addict
Lifetime Rennlist
Member
Lifetime Rennlist
Member
Join Date: Oct 2001
Posts: 1,091
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I took a different approach. I have a Sony color security camera (SSC-DC593) mounted on the roll cage, connected to a Sony MiniDV deck (GV-D1000) that is inside of a padded Pelican Box that is bolted to the floor pan. I also have a line level amplified (SoundProfessionals.com SP-PASM-2) stereo mic under the dash. The camera and mic are cabled to the A/V miniplug input to the MiniDV deck.
Power was a pain, as the camera takes 12vdc, the mic 9vdc, and MiniDV 8vdc. I ran wires through power switches mounted on my dash to the camera and mic, but I need to find a LANC wired remote to work with this deck. This setup was around $2K...so it's not cheap and I have yet figured out how to get the best picture as today was my first day using it. The first session came back terrible overexposed and I had too much wind noise. I messed with the camera's exposure and shutter speed settings which helped with the over exposure but caused some other problems. I think I just need a windscreen on the mic to make it work better.
Power was a pain, as the camera takes 12vdc, the mic 9vdc, and MiniDV 8vdc. I ran wires through power switches mounted on my dash to the camera and mic, but I need to find a LANC wired remote to work with this deck. This setup was around $2K...so it's not cheap and I have yet figured out how to get the best picture as today was my first day using it. The first session came back terrible overexposed and I had too much wind noise. I messed with the camera's exposure and shutter speed settings which helped with the over exposure but caused some other problems. I think I just need a windscreen on the mic to make it work better.
04-16-2005, 02:12 AM
#19
Race Car
I was lucky, in that a friend built two boxes for me. They're each regulated power supplies with four ports. They use quick-release connectors from microphones.
The one in front is 12V/1-amp across the board. The one in back has a variety of volt/amp outputs based on the equipment I use.
The one in front is 12V/1-amp across the board. The one in back has a variety of volt/amp outputs based on the equipment I use.
04-16-2005, 01:47 PM
#22
Drifting
Thread Starter
Join Date: Sep 2002
Location: La Jolla, CA
Posts: 2,166
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Originally Posted by JackOlsen
I was lucky, in that a friend built two boxes for me. They're each regulated power supplies with four ports. They use quick-release connectors from microphones.
The one in front is 12V/1-amp across the board. The one in back has a variety of volt/amp outputs based on the equipment I use.
The one in front is 12V/1-amp across the board. The one in back has a variety of volt/amp outputs based on the equipment I use.
