Rotating the tach
#1
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Rotating the tach
Hi all,
Sorry if this is a bit of a cheesy question, but for those of you who have rotated the tach on your track cars, I was wondering what RPM you place at 12:00. Is there a rule of thumb here, or just what feels comfortable to you?
On my SC, for example, it's a stock (albeit rebuilt and healthy) engine with SC cams and SSIs as the only engine mods. I had the tach with 6K up top. But this engine revs so quickly and smoothly, I was worried about overreving inadvertantly so I placed 5200 at 12:00. Just wondering what you all do. Thanks!
Edward
Sorry if this is a bit of a cheesy question, but for those of you who have rotated the tach on your track cars, I was wondering what RPM you place at 12:00. Is there a rule of thumb here, or just what feels comfortable to you?
On my SC, for example, it's a stock (albeit rebuilt and healthy) engine with SC cams and SSIs as the only engine mods. I had the tach with 6K up top. But this engine revs so quickly and smoothly, I was worried about overreving inadvertantly so I placed 5200 at 12:00. Just wondering what you all do. Thanks!
Edward
#3
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Yeh...
What JCP said. It is so that you can "see" where you are at in RPM without having to take the extra time to actually focus your eyes on the gauge. I have all of my gauges positioned that way. The Series I 944 tach is desoigned to be read within the steering wheel's area. I also have my oil pressure and water temp gauges set so the expected and normal point where the needle resides is straight up. Simply with a quick glance I can peripherally see if everything is Kosher in much les time than if I really had to LOOK.
On some cars it is a matter of getting this normal range within your vision at all. 911 tachs can be obscured in their OE position.
Not a silly question, by the way.
What JCP said. It is so that you can "see" where you are at in RPM without having to take the extra time to actually focus your eyes on the gauge. I have all of my gauges positioned that way. The Series I 944 tach is desoigned to be read within the steering wheel's area. I also have my oil pressure and water temp gauges set so the expected and normal point where the needle resides is straight up. Simply with a quick glance I can peripherally see if everything is Kosher in much les time than if I really had to LOOK.
On some cars it is a matter of getting this normal range within your vision at all. 911 tachs can be obscured in their OE position.
Not a silly question, by the way.
#6
Race Director
Originally Posted by Matt Marks
Anyone done this on a 944?
Yes. This on my early 944.
I don't have any good pics, but tach moved from the right hole to the center hole and rotated to 6 is up. Perfect. Never seen it on late 944.
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#11
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Originally Posted by M758
Ok I'll bite...
... how'd you do that?
... how'd you do that?
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Larry Herman
2016 Ford Transit Connect Titanium LWB
2018 Tesla Model 3 - Electricity can be fun!
Retired Club Racer & National PCA Instructor
Past Flames:
1994 RS America Club Racer
2004 GT3 Track Car
1984 911 Carrera Club Racer
1974 914/4 2.0 Track Car
CLICK HERE to see some of my ancient racing videos.
Larry Herman
2016 Ford Transit Connect Titanium LWB
2018 Tesla Model 3 - Electricity can be fun!
Retired Club Racer & National PCA Instructor
Past Flames:
1994 RS America Club Racer
2004 GT3 Track Car
1984 911 Carrera Club Racer
1974 914/4 2.0 Track Car
CLICK HERE to see some of my ancient racing videos.
#13
Race Director
Pikey7 made a scan a while back of the instument faces and I modified the tacho one to my liking, then I did this:
1: Remove the gauge cluster.
2: Modify the *.psd file to the way you want it, all I did was change the colour setting. Or you can use the one called "black_face_rev-1.psd".
3: Pull the tacho needle and boost gauge needle straight up from the dial face. Observe the white dots on the face for the boost and the edge of the tacho. The needles should be pointing towards these in a resting position.
4: Unscrew the two bolts on each side of the center (tacho) needle.
5: Print the PS file.
6: Center the tacho face over the printed tacho and cut around with a sharp paper knife.
7: Align the printed speedo face as you want it and punch holes for the two needles and the two screws.
8: Control the distance for the needle(s) and make sure that you fasten the needle(s) with the same distance from the bottom marking. I guess it would be easy to do an extra white mark for the needle in PS.
9: Put the face back and the printed tacho face on top and then fasten screws and put the gages back in the cluster frame.
I never removed the tacho gauge unit from the cluster and this is not necessary.
1: Remove the gauge cluster.
2: Modify the *.psd file to the way you want it, all I did was change the colour setting. Or you can use the one called "black_face_rev-1.psd".
3: Pull the tacho needle and boost gauge needle straight up from the dial face. Observe the white dots on the face for the boost and the edge of the tacho. The needles should be pointing towards these in a resting position.
4: Unscrew the two bolts on each side of the center (tacho) needle.
5: Print the PS file.
6: Center the tacho face over the printed tacho and cut around with a sharp paper knife.
7: Align the printed speedo face as you want it and punch holes for the two needles and the two screws.
8: Control the distance for the needle(s) and make sure that you fasten the needle(s) with the same distance from the bottom marking. I guess it would be easy to do an extra white mark for the needle in PS.
9: Put the face back and the printed tacho face on top and then fasten screws and put the gages back in the cluster frame.
I never removed the tacho gauge unit from the cluster and this is not necessary.
#14
Race Director
#15
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Edward, why don't you buy a kit from Techart or FVD with the 8k at 12 o'clock. I bought the kit, all white dials and installed it myself, easy. It cost me about $300+ and looks great.