ltc

Alan,
The simplest thing to do is to ask the builder how thick he formed/poured the slab and what type of concrete (i.e. 3500#) was used and if there was any rebar/reinforcing rod/wire used.

If this information is not available, then you can drill out a core and have it analyzed at a lab for (tensile/compression strength)....and you can see the thickness when the core is removed.

If the current slab is not capable of supporting the lift loading, then you could:
a. have the entire floor broken up and a proper slab installed
b. have 2 pier openings (concrete) sawn into the floor, dug out and poured down. this would have to be done with prior knowledge of the type/dimensions of the lift you want installed, so the piers line up with the posts.
(leave time to cure before installing new lift in both cases)

ColorChange

I have a 2 post bend-pak 9.000lb. It works great and I got a custom height to fit in my 11'11" garage ceiling.

Professor Helmüt Tester

Oh yeah...Part II:

Consider the space your garage doors take up, if they are 'overhead' doors.. Can you have a car high enough on the lift to get another underneath, and still get your garage doors open ?

You can get overhead door installers to source custom side rails that will go all the way up to the ceiling before they turn horizontal...but you'll probably have to get new doors to go with them.

DrJupeman

Here are some pics to illustrate the excellent points made in this thread. I designed my garage with the lift in mind, from the concrete floor pouring, routing of the radiant heat tubing, to the roof angle, and garage door lift (note how they follow the contour of the roof, these are standard doors but "industrial" garage door openers). The roof at its peak is 14'. I needed it to be that high so at the points where the roof is sloped it was still tall enough to hold our SUV.

Btw, my Mohawk A7 was ~$3500 installed if I'm remembering correctly. I figured if I was going to be working under this thing, I wanted a good strong lift.

RedlineMan

Hey All;

I have this Rotary scissors lift in my shop http://www.rotarylift.com/Products/V...ifts&series=vm. For the space-challenged environment it is ideal. Not good for working UNDER most of the car, but for everything else it is fine. It also has the distinct advantage of being portable. Being electro/hydraulic, I can roll it out in the parking lot and raise a car if I want! $2700 3 years ago. I use the heck out of it, and can't imagine NOT having one.

Alan Herod

When we had the garage built they put a special door track on the lift side, so that the door opens very near the ceiling, also since the track is so high it does not intrude into the ceiling space as much. I have the same industrial door opener and motor.

DGaunt

You are referring to Hi-Lift garage doors. They are part of the plan as it is time to replace the original doors anyway, for insulation reasons, if nothing else. Having been in that business a couple of decades ago, I estimate the door will cost me about 6" in headroom, but for >4" from the door.

i am really leaning toward a 2 post at this point, but lots more homework to do yet. Keep the comments coming!!!!

A930Rocket

John,

I've been debating what lift to install in the house I'm building and was thinking a lift like yours would work over a two post. Can you pull the motor/trans out with that lift? Seems like it would save room and do all that is needed. I've seen them for ~$1300-1400.

Jim

Claus Groth

I purchased a professional two-post asymmetrical hydraulic lift when an acquaintance moved and downsized his shop. At the time I had just concluded research into which new lift to purchase and learned that manufacturers recommend 6" thick concrete. My garage floor is 4" thick so I rented a concrete saw and jackhammer. I cut two rectangular holes larger than the bases of the lift and dug down 12" and dug 4" outward around the edges of each hole, underneath the old concrete. I figured that if the hoist ever became unstable, it would be difficult for the new concrete to tilt, being interlocked under the old concrete.

I purchased concrete in a special trailer at the rental yard. I don't recall the grade of concrete that I purchased but I asked for the strongest. I cut plywood templates with holes to match the hoist bases and fastened "J" studs to the plywood with nuts and washers on both sides. After filling the holes with concrete, I sunk the studs in until the plywood was flush with the old concrete. I leveled the plywood as the garage floor has a pitch toward the doors.

I have been using it eight to nine years without problems.

DGaunt

Thanks Claus, that sounds like the way to go, and not too much pain either.

RedlineMan

Jim;

Space was exactly why I bought the lift I did. My shop is not big enough to have a twin-post lift and keep the adjacent bay accessible (23' wide total). I chose the Rotary because it lifted higher (48") than any other name brand rig I saw. I am now thinking I may have paid only $1700 (duh???), but even if it was 27 it has been a great investment. I use it CONSTANTLY.

You can indeed do 911 engine work if you drop the engine from the front end of the lift. I normally have it facing toward the back wall, but for a 911/914 engine drop, I turn it around. Yes, it wheels around that easily!

DrJupeman

Fwiw, my garage is 24' wide. I think that extra foot makes all the difference to be able to keep the second bay free..

A930Rocket

Thanks John.

Although I might have enough room for a 2 post lift, I'm leaning towards the scissors lift now. I'll make my garage floor thick enough just in case though.

Racer944

Went with a four post lift by Autolifters of America. Good solid lift with excellent safey features that requires no bolting to the floor. In fact the lift can be lowered, casters attached to the ramps, then the whole thing can be rolled into the driveway (or around the garage) for working on oversized/overheight vehicles. Bought some sliding jack pans so the car can be lifted clear of the ramps when working on suspension with wheels off. Not as convenient as a two poster in terms of clearance to work on suspension, but much more practical in that a car can be stored on top and easily driven in and out when the lift is not being used for work.

For me, not only is it for working on the vehicles, but its like another garage as one of my vehicles is parked up top and the other car that is driven more often is parked underneath. Since the posts are at the ends of the lift and the height underneath is six feet, its not inconvenient at all to park under the lift.

Eric

bpp944

I have a bend-pak 4-post lift, 9K lb rating.

My only advice would be to inventory the parts using the packing slip before it's removed from the shipping truck. -Someone swiped some stuff during shipping and it took 60 day's to clear it up.

-by the way, I have an extra caster kit for I need to sell. anyone interested?