944 NA Air Duct Options
#1
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
944 NA Air Duct Options
944 Gurus -
What are the options for getting more airflow into the 944 engine compartment?
My car has been running hot so maybe I'd want more air flow, and maybe I'd want some air to the front brakes.
The few options that I've been thinking about are to get a 924 Carerra (?) vented nose panel, to remove the front turn signals and maybe insert some ducts (anyone know if these are available), to do the same with the fog lights, or to cut up the front spoiler a bit.
Any advice?
TIA
Jack
What are the options for getting more airflow into the 944 engine compartment?
My car has been running hot so maybe I'd want more air flow, and maybe I'd want some air to the front brakes.
The few options that I've been thinking about are to get a 924 Carerra (?) vented nose panel, to remove the front turn signals and maybe insert some ducts (anyone know if these are available), to do the same with the fog lights, or to cut up the front spoiler a bit.
Any advice?
TIA
Jack
#2
Race Director
Jack,
I cut the center bar in the spoiler and added 3" brake ducting to the fog light openings. The center bar works and keeps the car running in 100F+ temps in Arizona and So Cal.
I cut the center bar in the spoiler and added 3" brake ducting to the fog light openings. The center bar works and keeps the car running in 100F+ temps in Arizona and So Cal.
#3
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Join Date: Jun 2001
Location: Duxbury, MA
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Been my experience since 1985 with a 8 valve NA and an S, that when you're overheating at the track, a new factory radiator always solved the problem. Not sure you need to get more air to it assuming water pump etc. is working.
#4
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
Thanks for the replies!
I have a new radiator. One problem is that I have an oil cooler mounted right in front of it. I think I need to get that cooler moved...
I have a new radiator. One problem is that I have an oil cooler mounted right in front of it. I think I need to get that cooler moved...
#5
Three Wheelin'
Jack
I have a Mazda second generation oil cooler mounted horizontally in front of the radiator, but laying flat. I cut a hole in the part of the air dam that is in front of the radiator. That way it is not in the way of the radiator, but it still gets air, though it has to flow down to get to the cooler. Works like a champ. I also put in a 944 Turbo radiator in. All you have to do is lower the radiator mount about 1 1/2 inches, and use a late bottom radiator mount, and fabricat the mount to the upper part. I don't care how hot the outside air temp, my car never over heats.
I have not done the new (944S) car yet, but I don't see a problem.
Nort Northam (Arguably, the fastest 944 guy in Fla) does it this way, and his mount looks more professional than mine, but mine still works.
Bill Seifert
1987 944S Race Car under const.
I have a Mazda second generation oil cooler mounted horizontally in front of the radiator, but laying flat. I cut a hole in the part of the air dam that is in front of the radiator. That way it is not in the way of the radiator, but it still gets air, though it has to flow down to get to the cooler. Works like a champ. I also put in a 944 Turbo radiator in. All you have to do is lower the radiator mount about 1 1/2 inches, and use a late bottom radiator mount, and fabricat the mount to the upper part. I don't care how hot the outside air temp, my car never over heats.
I have not done the new (944S) car yet, but I don't see a problem.
Nort Northam (Arguably, the fastest 944 guy in Fla) does it this way, and his mount looks more professional than mine, but mine still works.
Bill Seifert
1987 944S Race Car under const.
#6
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Did the same thing back in 94.Then moved the oil cooler to a vertical mount where the washer reservoir was and opened some air to it and removed the gasket that sealed the hood to the firewall to let the air escape.
#7
Three Wheelin'
Jim3
I did that at first, but was racing PCA club racing, and got my hand smacked in tech, they said I had to have a windsield washer, so that is why I put it where I did. Also SCCA requires a washer. DE's should be ok.
Bill Seifert
I did that at first, but was racing PCA club racing, and got my hand smacked in tech, they said I had to have a windsield washer, so that is why I put it where I did. Also SCCA requires a washer. DE's should be ok.
Bill Seifert
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#8
Race Director
Do you have the undertray attached? If not, put it on now. It's an important component of the cooling system. It helps dramatically to create a pressure differential between the front side of the radiator and the back side. If you don't have the tray attached, the pressure differential is poor.
The other thing no one has mentioned is to box in your radiator. Bill and I cannot do that in IT, but for a DE car you should create panels that prevent air from spilling around the radiator. You want to force as much through there as possible and preferably it should be sealed with the only openings being the radiator and the front of the car.
The other thing no one has mentioned is to box in your radiator. Bill and I cannot do that in IT, but for a DE car you should create panels that prevent air from spilling around the radiator. You want to force as much through there as possible and preferably it should be sealed with the only openings being the radiator and the front of the car.
#9
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
Geo -
Thanks for the tips!
I race this car in PCA prepared, so I can do some extra duct-work.
I could probably box off the radiator. I don't have the undertray and was planning to get one, but didn't know that it might help with the cooling.
Thanks for the tips!
I race this car in PCA prepared, so I can do some extra duct-work.
I could probably box off the radiator. I don't have the undertray and was planning to get one, but didn't know that it might help with the cooling.
#10
Race Director
Originally Posted by Jack667
Geo -
Thanks for the tips!
I race this car in PCA prepared, so I can do some extra duct-work.
I could probably box off the radiator. I don't have the undertray and was planning to get one, but didn't know that it might help with the cooling.
Thanks for the tips!
I race this car in PCA prepared, so I can do some extra duct-work.
I could probably box off the radiator. I don't have the undertray and was planning to get one, but didn't know that it might help with the cooling.
I'll bet the bulk, if not all, of your problem stems from not having the undertray on.
What happens is air under the car rises up to fill the space behind the radiator and since that is an easier path for air to flow than through the radiator, your airflow through the radiator is, uh, challenged. By installing the undertray, the air pressure behind the radiator is much much lower than in front of it and this greatly facilitates the airflow through the radiator. If you box it in, I'll bet all your cooling problems go away. If they don't, then I would look to your radiator as the problem.
#11
Three Wheelin'
Geo,
Geo,
Does the 944S have an undertray. I bought mine as a shell, without one, don't even know if it is suppose to have one. I have run my regular 944 without one since 1997. Learn something new every day, though I have no idea what I did with it. I can't find stuff I had last week, muchless 7 yearas ago.
Bill
Thanks,
Bill
Geo,
Does the 944S have an undertray. I bought mine as a shell, without one, don't even know if it is suppose to have one. I have run my regular 944 without one since 1997. Learn something new every day, though I have no idea what I did with it. I can't find stuff I had last week, muchless 7 yearas ago.
Bill
Thanks,
Bill
#13
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Rennlist Member
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Hey Guys;
Geo is on the ball here. High pressure under-the-spoiler air fills the first void it can find and invades the space behind the rad, ruining the airflow. He's nailed it. I saw at least -5 degrees with the tray back on.
ALL 944s had one. Series 1 had the alloy full cover, and the later cars had the flat fiber reinforced plastic variety. These also keep road junk from finding its way into you belts. Had a friend take a piece of steel right through his belt casing once!!!!
I have opened up the panel behind the bumper bar (core support) and also the front bar itself (see my avatar). I also bagged the plastic air foil behind the core support. This allows at least 20% more direct airflow to the rad. I see 210 max in the hottest summer weather with at least 8-year-old stock cooling components.
Geo is on the ball here. High pressure under-the-spoiler air fills the first void it can find and invades the space behind the rad, ruining the airflow. He's nailed it. I saw at least -5 degrees with the tray back on.
ALL 944s had one. Series 1 had the alloy full cover, and the later cars had the flat fiber reinforced plastic variety. These also keep road junk from finding its way into you belts. Had a friend take a piece of steel right through his belt casing once!!!!
I have opened up the panel behind the bumper bar (core support) and also the front bar itself (see my avatar). I also bagged the plastic air foil behind the core support. This allows at least 20% more direct airflow to the rad. I see 210 max in the hottest summer weather with at least 8-year-old stock cooling components.
#14
Three Wheelin'
I now remember why I took my undertray off. In 1997 I put a 924 Turbo oil cooler on my car, and the tray would not fit because of the oil lines. Then in 1998 at IRP I put the car headon into the Arrmco and squished the oil cooler, along with much of the front end. When I rebuilt it I put the Mazda oil cooler on, and couldn't find the undertray. (Still can't)
Anyway, I will dig one up for the 944S. One thing though, with a 944 Turbo radiator on, I wonder if the car will run too cool with the undertray on. Just thinking.
Bill
Anyway, I will dig one up for the 944S. One thing though, with a 944 Turbo radiator on, I wonder if the car will run too cool with the undertray on. Just thinking.
Bill