LanceK

I just mounted some E-track to my trailer walls. It's mounted horizontally the length of the trailer. I used self-tapping screws 3/4" long #8's. They are all screwed into the studs. This was the screw the tech dept. at the trailer manufacturer told me to use.

Well the first day I used it 4 of the screws pulled right out of the studs! This was with very little force too. I called the trailer place and he didn't know what to tell me. He suggested trying 1" or wider screws.

My friend thinks I should try riveting.

Any advice?

TIA

RedlineMan

PUNT!

Hmmmmphhhh... not a good scenario. I don't like wood much myself. I'm into metal. Things hold to it much better. Drill it, Bolt it. Form it. Weld it. Yeh... I like metal.

Sounds like to me you need to spread out the workload. Is your trailer sheeted with plywood inside? Probably 1/4", right? That aint gonna cut it.

I think if you are going to use E-track on the walls, you need 5/8" minimum plywood on the walls and you then need to spread out the E-track load by screwing it into the plywood with some nasty fasteners, PRODIGIOUSLY along its length. Say at least every 6" or so. This will distribute the load over a much wider area, and might better tolerate loads.

LanceK

I believe my walls are only 1/8" thick. I don't have the paperwork handy at the moment but am 99% sure. I remember the tech saying something that it saves a bunch of weight. I have the white walls so it's a little tough to tell even when looking through the holes I drill.

The trailer is made by Millenium if that helps.

Your theory makes sense, but with the walls being so thin I'm a little nervous mounting anything to the "un-studded" areas.

ngoldrich

Lance,
Does millenium use hatpost or square tubing for the studs ?

If square tubing, then you may be fine with large self tapping screws. If they use hatpost (like mine - which I dont really care for) then I would bolt through from the outside. It is not worth the risk.

I just went through adding 2 heavy duty aluminum tire racks. My mfg told me self tapping would work too. After doing the load analysis, there was no way it would work as safe as I wanted it. So I used through bolts. They are not very noticable in my case.

For tire racks, most of the load is pulling down.

In the case of e-tracks even more load will be trying to pull them out of the wall, so I would not recommend using self tapping screws.

I do have a friend with a trailer that is built with pretty thick square tubing and he drilled and tapped the tubing and used bolts, and that worked well.

My method of operation is never risk it. We spend too much $ and time on our hobby and it would not be worth the heartache to have something come crashing down on our pride & joy...

FWIW Just my .02.. And no I am not a trailer or structural load engineer...

Norm

LanceK

Norm not sure on my studs I'll call and ask.

What did you use for through bolts?

Do you have any pics?

ngoldrich

Lance, I used good carriage bolts with big flat washers and lockwashers on the inside...

Norm

LanceK

So I assume the "button" part is on the outside?

ngoldrich

Correct...

ngoldrich

Just make sure the carriage bolt still goes through the stud...