Bill L Seifert

Hey gang,

The one thing I like about this list, is the things you learn. Y'all are right, I am getting two more tiedowns. I had no idea.

Stutgart

You have no idea how crazy! Years ago, when I used an open trailer, I only used two tiedowns then also. At least now I know, and will change my ways.

Tony,

Your experience brings a cold sweat. Heres one: I was leaving Memphis after a race, and a friend guided my hitch onto the ball. I put the stabalizers on, and headed for home. About 80 miles later I stopped at Casey Jones' for supper.(Great buffet place in Jackson, Tn.) I discovered the hitch and not been closed, I thought the guy that had guided me had closed it. If I had hit a bump, my race car, trailer and all could have gotten to Jackson before I did.

Thanks fellas,

Bill

CarreraCup03

8 straps is far from overkill if you want to keep keep the 3000 lbs flying missle from taking off ....

silver44

I got a 28ft Pace. I have always used four straps but now I have to question that. I have also noticed that one of my straps was a little frayed. I periodically stop whenever I am towing to check the car...paranoid I guess. I agree will Bill, the limits of learning here are limitless

Also I cross my rears but not my fronts. I was coming back from a New Orleans DE one time and the interstate leading out of LA to MS is horrible. I discovers on my return that the rear of my car had slid over a bit (this was before I was crossing my rears). I have never had a problem with the front though.

Don

mitch236

Very interesting thread indeed. So I need to install 4 more d-rings in the trailer and a camera. The question is now where do I attach to the car? I was going to install the tie down attachments but will these suffice in an accident. Should I continue to use tire straps? With 2 straps per wheel?

RedlineMan

Hey Mitch;

If you mean the tire cradle type that go over the tire front-and-rear and ratchet down, they work very well. They keep the tires in place but allow the car's suspension to work.

Using straps through the wheels works OK provided you very carefully position them. I know people who have had straps sawed in half by sharp wheel edges or other parts of the car.

The front is far less critical than the rear. Anything that secures the front and also keeps it from shifting side-to-side is OK. However, you won't go wrong using what I'll call "4x4 mounting."

The rear is the critical area. You obviously can brake harder than accelerate. Further, when you hit the brakes hard, there is a momentary lapse before the the tolerance in the trailer hitch and ball will completely take up, and this creates a pretty dramatic whiplash effect. The forward inertia of 2500+lbs is pretty dramatic. A pair of straps straight for forward protection, and a pair crossed for side stay, and you should be covered. "4x4" mounting. 4 straps, 4 anchors.

All tie downs should be anchored in the frame work of the trailer, not to the deck. Higher quality trailers will all have their hooks mounted into a crossmember, with the bolts furthest from the load going through the frame work. Even steel deck trailers should employ this method. Plywood, and even 10-12ga. steel, is no match for the inertia of a car whipping forward.

I would further suggest that you have four separate tie downs for the rear straps, all mounted to the frame as above. If one hook fails, you lose two straps worth of retention. You get extra protection having each to its own mount.

In fact, I'm guilty as well and I'm going to redo my own trailer this week before heading to the 48 Hours!

mitch236

Do you guys use wheel stops at the front as well? Currently I am using a Trailex and it has 2" stops at the front. Is this enough?

PMS993

I guess this is the time for confessions to relieve aching hearts but...

On one of my first trips to Roebling for a DE, I secured the car in the trailer and took off. I turn on to Roebling Rd. and begin that three mile final stretch. As I get near the track, I notice a bumping feel when I brake. I think well the track is around the corner so I'll just check it there. When I finally open the door, much to my shock, the car has eased forward and wedged itself against an air bottle and the cabinets. When I got it free, the only damage was a cracked front spoiler. I could easily blame it on track incidents but just kept silent.

My lesson? Always make sure you have enough tail in your strap before you start ratcheting and also make sure you don't have too much strap that the ratchet doesn't close anymore. I know all of you think "duh" but sometimes, you don't learn things until you learn them!!! Thank goodness it didn't happen while I was still on I-95.

924RACR

Excellent points... I'll be hunting down some more straps to supplement the 2 in the rear that I've been using... and more attachment points on both the car and trailer!

Time to get to work!

Bill L Seifert

I went to Walmart today to see about some additional tie-downs. Would 4 tiedowns rated at 3000 lbs each be good enough?

Bill

RedlineMan

Hey Bill;

That sounds fairly good. I was not aware WalMart carried anything that stout.

This is the style I use. Rated at 5000lbs. Under $10 each. Widely available. I get mine at Tractor Supply.

Bill L Seifert

John,

No. I have that kind in my trailer also. 4 in the front and 4 in the rear. What I was asking about, is the tiedown itself. Hooks on each end and a ratchet thingie to tighten them. Walmart sells them in 3000 lb strengths, and they are 14 feet long.

Sorry for the mixup,

Thanks,

Bill

RedlineMan

Oooops... Missed the boat there.

Hmmm... G-Load x Vehicle Weight = Force on Strap.

Pick a g-load. You can easily get 5Gs. 5 x 2700 = 13,500 load. 10 x 2700 = 27,000.

I think mine are 10,000lb rated Allied trucker's straps. Get them at Sam's Club for $13ea. 20' length, cut to shorten as needed.

Bill L Seifert

John,

That sounds great, my wife has a Sam's Club membership,(It irks me to pay to shop, but I don't mind her doing it.) so I will go there tomorrow.

Thanks for the help,

Bill