kev

I will be using 10' wooden boards as ramps for my trailer. What setups are some of you'll using to support wooden ramps from deflecting when the car goes up them?
Thanks.

Adam Richman

Kevin, I am in process of extending my trailer door ramp (5' extensions) and having to deal with a similar situation. As a young'en, I used to skate and more to the point, build launch ramps and quarter pipes. A couple years ago I built some ramps for my house (chair access) and used the same design we did then (and who knows, half pipes may be made of CF and clear corners today ). Basically, what I am doing is cutting the ramp angles (triangles) out of 1/2" plywood. 2 per ramp. Then putting 2xN spaced about every 9-12" between the triangle uprights. Then lay 3/8" sheet of plywood on top and nail/glue to the top surface areas. Since mine only needs to be 9" tall by 5' long, I am just going to use 2x10, 2x8, 2x6, 2x4 progressively down the line (instead of nailing/screwing them from the outside, was going to leave the 2x about 1/2" overhung and cut a relief in the 2x and the plywood and use wooden dowels so they go through the 2x - the plywood - the 2x again) - if I can't get them close enough for my comfort zone, I'll use heavier planking (but 3/8ths sheathing did hold up on my steel ramps to make a smooth surface thus that as a starting point). If someone knows of a more rigid structure w/out additional weight using wood though, I'd like to hear as well.

here's a basic mock-up (I am doing dowels through the bottom half of the cross supports, through the vertical supports. If it comes down to it and the sheathing doesn't seem thick enough, I'll just lay down either some diamond plate or another 1/4" sheet of plywood. Not sure if it helps.

RedlineMan

Wow Adam...

You've got WAAAY too much time on your hands!

Kev - I don't see much wood used for main ramps, just for extreme angle extension. Anything built of wood has to be enormously bulky in order to have the proper strength. I think you would be much better served in the long run to buy some metal ramps, or have some made. Wood is not really suitable for such things.

kev

John,

Sorry, I should clarify. I do have 5' steel trailer ramps and will be using 10' boards as extension ramps. At this point I'm going to try putting wheels under the boards.

Adam,

Adam Richman

I wish, but when I do, I enjoy woodworking. You aught to see my fish tank stand design for a 120 gal tall In all seriousness, the stair ramps I made about 3 years ago were done w/ hand tools and did them in about 4-5 hours are 4.5' x 7" wide maybe, if they weigh more than 10lbs. each I'd be surprised and they are stupidly over-built for the weight they support (and I'd do them differently if I had to do it over).

...
"Wood is not really suitable for such things."
Oh ouch man! I actually did a good amout of looking for suitable ramps out of steel/aluminum before redirecting my efforts and they were a fortune for the rated weights I was interested in (and in my case, I need to change the angle of the ramp door and not be under or over it so this was my solution). Seriously, if you could find me some self supporting metal ramps that weighed under 50lbs. I'd be all over them - especially if they were under 500 bucks for both. I do agree with you however, if I wasn't trying to extend the door (hinge from the top of the door - door supports its weight, extensions support their weight kind of thing), I would definately buy some metal ramps that would run from ground to the trailer opening.

There are those that can weld, for the rest of us, there's wood

M758

I use 6 foot metal ladder ramps and 6 foot wood extensions.

The wood extensions are made from (2) 2x8's on top of each other. On the low end it is tapered so one of the 2x8's creats the first "step". Then the second one sits on top. On the high end the 2x8's sit on a 4x4 block. The metal ramps then rest on the end of the woodend ones and load directly to the 4x4 block. System works nice and gives me access ramps at the track Many times I have driven the car on these for quick undercar access. Lots faster than jack stands.

Nice thing about the 2 part design is that the metal ramps go under the trailer and the woodone slip under the car (ramp upside down) for quick access and secure loading.

Here is pic of the two woodboards ramps on top of each other.

RedlineMan

Adam -

I hear ya, bro!

I wonder what Trailex would get for a pair of their long alloy ramps?

Also, for beavertail trialers, sometimes the best addition is an electric tongue jack. I see a TON of guys fooling with all manner of boards and such when they could simply raise the tongue and level their entry angle.

Trust me, I know the hassle. The Cup Car is seriously low and even with raised tongue, beavertail, extension ramps... we STILL need some boards to get it in!! That's why I raised my 944 back up. Too much of a pain!!

JW in Texas

Kev,
I was going the extra wood ramp route with the cupcar last year. This year I just built some shim ramps to go under the edge of my standard trailer ramps & that does the trick. You just need to shallow up the approach angle of your steel ramps. I used 3/4" high grade plywood. Ripped it down to 12" widths. Bottom piece is about 24" long. I went 4" shorter stagger for each additional piece. Ended up 5 high total(last piece is about 8" long). Screw a couple of cheap HD handles on the sides @ the balance point to make them easy to carry & you are done. 15 minutes work & $ 20.00 in materials plus they are a lot easier to haul around than 6' boards I was hauling.
J

Adam Richman

John, I checked their site and didn't see ramps on their own, it may be worth a call. I have tried jacking the tongue up to ease the angle but came up a bit short and wasn't comfortable with the amount I had to jack the rear of the truck - can't imagine its TOO good for the truck's receiver (the trailer's rear axles are probably closer to 2/5ths the way back vs. dead center of the trailer). Basically, I need a 1:5.9 rise over run (a/d splitter) or I go back to the days of yore and pull off the bumper/ad/splitter. The door is approx. 19" off the ground, the door is 76.5" long.

Jay, did you think about taking a hole saw to them and take some of the weight off? Sounds like it would be pretty hefty.

JW in Texas

Adam,
The weight isn't bad. Much easier to handle then the 6'- 2 x 12s I was carrrying. I used to jack the truck tongue also when I was using those. With the shims, I don't have to.

kev

Jay,

That sounds like a great idea. Lessen the ramp lengths that I have to tote around and will let me utilize the wider trailer ramps for part of the load/unload process. Personally, 285 tires on my 12" width ramp extensions is cutting it close.

Missed you out at MSR this weekend.

JW in Texas

Kev,
The RSA got hammered in the rear quarter last weekend @ TWS in the enduro so I am in repair mode right now. I am instructing @ the Hill Country DE in May. Hopefully it will be ready by then. Let me know if you want pics of the shim ramps.