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FWIW - Bought a pack of EIGHT stainless steel "Honda / Acura Brake Disc Rotor Screws" from Amazon for $6.99 with FREE shipping... They fit a Porsche Boxster perfectly. As noted above, these are set screws that help hold the brake rotors in place, and although they are probably unnecessary, I feel better having them in place. Had I bought them on eBay, they would have been $87.68...$4 for the screws and $83.68 for shipping. I love Amazon.
FWIW - Bought a pack of EIGHT stainless steel "Honda / Acura Brake Disc Rotor Screws" from Amazon for $6.99 with FREE shipping... They fit a Porsche Boxster perfectly. As noted above, these are set screws that help hold the brake rotors in place, and although they are probably unnecessary, I feel better having them in place. Had I bought them on eBay, they would have been $87.68...$4 for the screws and $83.68 for shipping. I love Amazon.
No matter how much antiseize I put on those damned things on installation they always want to strip when I remove them. Thankfully I don't have to do it very often--one of the plusses of not braking much
No matter how much antiseize I put on those damned things on installation they always want to strip when I remove them. Thankfully I don't have to do it very often--one of the plusses of not braking much
Gary
Gary, it helps a lot to use an impact tool to remove this sort of screw. This is the one I use 8 pc 3/8" Drive Impact Driver Set, but there are less expensive options. Always keep spare bits on hand -- you never know when one will break (and it will never break as long as it knows you have a spare!)
You'll be fine with either anti-seize or low-strength thread locker on the screw threads: either will protect them to a good degree from corrosion. Good luck!
Gary, it helps a lot to use an impact tool to remove this sort of screw. This is the one I use 8 pc 3/8" Drive Impact Driver Set, but there are less expensive options. Always keep spare bits on hand -- you never know when one will break (and it will never break as long as it knows you have a spare!)
You'll be fine with either anti-seize or low-strength thread locker on the screw threads: either will protect them to a good degree from corrosion. Good luck!
Yeah, Kevin, the rare times I've had the shop do them they zing 'em right off with the air wrench, but that's a nice set you have--when I do them I do use (lots of) Permatex antiseize, or Liqui-Moly if I'm feeling flush
You actually don’t need to put any load on them at all. They are only there to help align the rotor and hold it for you while you perform the rest of the install. In the end they are covered by the wheel and can’t back out. I barely put any load on mine, just enough to flush it up and hold the rotor in place. Maybe a few inch pounds.
Kevin... I've always used a steel hammer with the Impact Driver. But I recently tried a rubber hammer and it didn't feel like I properly set the screws. Agreed?
Edit: Just saw the above post. Helpful info. Thanks.
Gary, it helps a lot to use an impact tool to remove this sort of screw. This is the one I use 8 pc 3/8" Drive Impact Driver Set, but there are less expensive options. Always keep spare bits on hand -- you never know when one will break (and it will never break as long as it knows you have a spare!)
You'll be fine with either anti-seize or low-strength thread locker on the screw threads: either will protect them to a good degree from corrosion. Good luck!
^^^ This, but literally 10x cheaper: NAPA Service Tools Impact Screwdriver Set. Worked great for me last week. It was also kind of fun wailing on the rotor with a rubber mallet to loosen it up, too.
I barely put any load on mine, just enough to flush it up and hold the rotor in place. Maybe a few inch pounds.
Same here--I don't crank on them at all. Torque setting for my car is 20 ft/lb--I put a tq wrench on them once just to feel it and it's much tighter than what I do.
03-18-2019, 06:10 PM
