dgrobs

I saw some posts got deleted, including one of mine. If I was the offender, I am sorry. Didn't mean to cause anyone (moderator) any grief, or extra work for that matter. Sorry if I did something wrong. Not my intent.
If it wasn't me, then....(in my best Emily Litella voice) never mind .
Thanks...

sugarwood

Why was my post deleted?
What a joke.

mgordon18

+1, mods... It would be great if we could hear the reasoning behind the removal, at least to know which portions of our post(s) broke policy. Maybe as a PM to the three of us whose posts were dropped?

911therapy

flatsics

rennlist justsucks anymore...I was on the email list before the actual rennlist.... we are not moving forward

dgrobs

Guess we're not going to find out why posts were deleted so let's move on.

OP, have you decided which road (pardon the pun) you're going to go down concerning your pad choice? OEM with the free replacements or track pads?

mgordon18

As I alluded to earlier in the thread, I'm still in the "wait and see" stage. I've got the Ferodo's ready for next season to see how much longer they can go. They currently have about 4 days on them, give or take a handful of rainy sessions. I figure if I can get 10-15 days on them then that's a full season, for me. $1K/year on brake pads is doable for the performance over OEM. Before I switched to Ferodo, I did notice some brake vibration after coming home from the track with OEM pads. It would go away after a week or so. I assume that was probably brake pad material melted to the rotors causing judder, as Mr. Turtles mentioned back up in post #9. So that's a factor too.

Regarding rotors, I've got a set of slotted Sebros (cheap, I know) waiting to go on the front before next season as well. I'll see how long those last and make the same decision. My OEM fronts are cracking pretty significantly right now. They're original to the car (prior owner), but they have about 10 mostly rainy track days on them since I got to 'em. Seriously - it rained at almost EVERY DE I went to this year.

wmond

BFT3.2

I'll just copy and paste this from another thread where I commented on them.

"I've been using Raybestos ST-43 endurance pads for four years now. My recent set in my 2600 lb street legal 986 track car has 20+ days on them in int./advanced PCA DE run group at Lime Rock, the Glen and Palmer, have 40% remaining in front and 60% in the rear, between track and street around 12K miles. They work great cold on the street and have been nearly silent, plenty of stopping power and torque on the track. Not even interested in trying something else next season, love em. Porterfield cuts them custom for 986, takes about 2 weeks to fill a order. https://www.porterfield-brakes.com"

*Just realized I already wrote the same thing here a couple weeks ago.

wmond

Santi

You will be very happy with the ST-43 pads - the previous post pretty much sums it up.

mgordon18

They also seem to be a few hundred dollars cheaper than the Ferodos and Pagids (RS29)... $800 for a full set vs. $950-$1000.

MaynardZed

I might check it out. I've just been using stock pads and rotors on my GTS, but its just a part time track car. They are more than adequate for occasional track use. Fresh brake fluid really helps a lot too.

Intermediate drivers tend to be a little more abusive on brake pads and rotors. As you progress over the years you learn to use the brakes less and less, and use other techniques to slow the car down.

BFT3.2

Agreed. As the owner of a momentum car I find myself braking (with the brakes) as little as possible to the point of consistently catching double the HP cars in some corners. I'll also add that the ST-43's are easy on rotors, my fronts have lasted 20+ days and have some life left in them.

JRitt@essex

Pruetfann makes a key point in this thread regarding where to compromise. One of the biggest problems/risks with running OEM / street pads on the track is that they don't have as high of a maximum operating temperature as an actual racing pad like the Ferodo DS1.11. But what is even more concerning is how the pad behaves when it does reach its max operating temp. Many, if not most, street pads give up incredibly quickly when they get to their max temp. You feel that as pad fade. You stand on the brake pedal, it remains hard, but the car doesn't slow. If you've ever had that happen on track, it is a huge pucker factor. We've seen this on customer cars, our own cars, and on our brake dyno. The coefficient of friction (or mu) of the street pad changes constantly with temperature. When it reaches a certain temperature, the mu starts to decline. On a good metallic race pad, that fall-off is gradual over several hundred degrees. That means you have some warning as it occurs on track, and you know it's time to give your brakes a little breather to cool down. Street pads tend NOT to do that. Instead, their mu curve typically falls off a cliff. They don't let go and bow out gracefully and gradually. Instead, they just stop working almost immediately. Obviously that adds in an element of considerable risk.

To the OP...if you want to try a pad that has barely any squeal on the street, but still has a very high max operating temperature, and a gradual decline in mu at high temps, check out the Ferodo DS2500. We've had customers accidentally and intentionally run them on various racetracks. Many of our Essex/AP Racing brake kit customers use them in their cars, and many leave them in all the time. They won't give you the maximum wear rate of the DS1.11, but they do have better street manners and will be less risky than OEM. They have plenty of cold bite and are super easy on discs. The DS2500 is also less expensive than the DS1.11. A full set of front and rear DS2500 for your car is $672. Give them a shot. I think you'll be pleased, and my hunch is that they'll be the compromise you're seeking.

https://www.essexparts.com/my-vehicl...ok/Iron%20disc