Moving to a dedicated track car
10-18-2018, 12:00 AM
#46
As a temporary fix, you can run 19's on a RWS 991.2 by adding a 7 mm spacer on the back with Oz wheels like those sold on Tirerack.
Works well for me and gets you into somewhat cheaper tire options.
Works well for me and gets you into somewhat cheaper tire options.
10-18-2018, 12:15 AM
#47
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
Is your car narrow body? I know the GTS and GT3 crowd can run OZ wheels with offset but I believe it wouldn't work with a C2 or C2S.
10-18-2018, 12:33 AM
#48
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You are looking at moving from a car that you drive on the street and track to a track only vehicle.
You will need a trailer and vehicle to haul it.
You will need a place to store trailer.
You will need to maintain the trailer.
A DFI cayman is your best bet. 2009+
Find something already completed and well sorted. GTB1, GTB2, GTB3.
I honestly wouldnt bother with 944, older caymans or spec boxsters/caymans. They are fine and dandy, but the reliabilty of a DFI motor and PDK makes for a headache free weekend.
Or you can jump straight into a 2016 Clubsport. Not cheap, but holds good resale and brakes last a long time.
You will need a trailer and vehicle to haul it.
You will need a place to store trailer.
You will need to maintain the trailer.
A DFI cayman is your best bet. 2009+
Find something already completed and well sorted. GTB1, GTB2, GTB3.
I honestly wouldnt bother with 944, older caymans or spec boxsters/caymans. They are fine and dandy, but the reliabilty of a DFI motor and PDK makes for a headache free weekend.
Or you can jump straight into a 2016 Clubsport. Not cheap, but holds good resale and brakes last a long time.
10-19-2018, 05:25 PM
#49
Instructor
How about a brand new GT350? They are discounted in Toronto and you can get one for around 69k. Pretty big bang for your buck.
10-19-2018, 05:51 PM
#50
Rennlist Member
10-19-2018, 08:10 PM
#51
Three Wheelin'
I have not read every post, but here are some thoughts:
Think about how long you plan to enjoy a dedicated car. 1-5 years, or 5+ years... however you break it down.
Think about the events and use case-- a car like a Radical may not be as easy to squeeze in to the events you'd like to attend. Sometimes mixed groups with cars like Radicals and 911s exist, sometimes they aren't as prevalent.
Think about oil, more specifically cars with dry sumps versus cars with wet sumps. I started with a 944, them moved to 951s including my final unit with a custom 2.5L engine producing in excess of 360 bhp and at about 2900 pounds without driver. Needed big brakes. Needed a bunch oil oiling system band aids due to the wet sump.
I left the 951 platform to go air-cooled 911 about 20 years ago. Much easier to get light and has a dry sump. Much easier to work on than my 944 family cars.
he king of the hill in this regard is a Porsche with a 3 liter engine. In some range from stockish to racish. Generally, if and air-cooled engine is configured to make power below 7k rpm, service intervals can be pretty long. A 911 car with a lightweight config and a 3 liter engine can go and go and be a lot of fun.
If you are considering a car like a 996 or a Cayman with a wet sump, I'd suggest learning about what folks are seeing in terms of engine service life. Of course, the compromise with wet sumps goes up with cornering force, so consider that as well.
Lots of ways to go.
I predict that in the near future a lot of air-cooled track/race cars will become available. Light cars with dry sump air-cooled engines that may not be suitable for conversion back to the street. Lightweight, easy to work on. And so on.
Think about how long you plan to enjoy a dedicated car. 1-5 years, or 5+ years... however you break it down.
Think about the events and use case-- a car like a Radical may not be as easy to squeeze in to the events you'd like to attend. Sometimes mixed groups with cars like Radicals and 911s exist, sometimes they aren't as prevalent.
Think about oil, more specifically cars with dry sumps versus cars with wet sumps. I started with a 944, them moved to 951s including my final unit with a custom 2.5L engine producing in excess of 360 bhp and at about 2900 pounds without driver. Needed big brakes. Needed a bunch oil oiling system band aids due to the wet sump.
I left the 951 platform to go air-cooled 911 about 20 years ago. Much easier to get light and has a dry sump. Much easier to work on than my 944 family cars.
he king of the hill in this regard is a Porsche with a 3 liter engine. In some range from stockish to racish. Generally, if and air-cooled engine is configured to make power below 7k rpm, service intervals can be pretty long. A 911 car with a lightweight config and a 3 liter engine can go and go and be a lot of fun.
If you are considering a car like a 996 or a Cayman with a wet sump, I'd suggest learning about what folks are seeing in terms of engine service life. Of course, the compromise with wet sumps goes up with cornering force, so consider that as well.
Lots of ways to go.
I predict that in the near future a lot of air-cooled track/race cars will become available. Light cars with dry sump air-cooled engines that may not be suitable for conversion back to the street. Lightweight, easy to work on. And so on.
10-21-2018, 12:14 PM
#52
Rennlist Member
10-21-2018, 03:14 PM
#54
The Goal: have FUN, Be SAFE and Finish the weekend for a manageable price
Air cooled, dry sump Porsche's are purpose built for the racetrack, lightweight, reliable and low buck to operate.
Two years @ 6 weekends per year - GS 610 fluid, Zimmerman Rotors and Raybestos ST-43 pads, $50 per weekend.
Used Pirreli slicks, with 2-3 heat cycles, $150 - $100 each, 8 total for two sets, around $1000, good for two to three weekend events.
30 gallons of Sunoco 110 fuel @ $10 per gal - $300 per weekend.
Tow vehicle fuel - $150 per weekend.
Entry fees - $500 to $300 per weekend
About $1500 per weekend in total expenses minus lodging for a $35K car, tow trailer with spare tires & wheels.
Air cooled, dry sump Porsche's are purpose built for the racetrack, lightweight, reliable and low buck to operate.
Two years @ 6 weekends per year - GS 610 fluid, Zimmerman Rotors and Raybestos ST-43 pads, $50 per weekend.
Used Pirreli slicks, with 2-3 heat cycles, $150 - $100 each, 8 total for two sets, around $1000, good for two to three weekend events.
30 gallons of Sunoco 110 fuel @ $10 per gal - $300 per weekend.
Tow vehicle fuel - $150 per weekend.
Entry fees - $500 to $300 per weekend
About $1500 per weekend in total expenses minus lodging for a $35K car, tow trailer with spare tires & wheels.
10-21-2018, 05:39 PM
#55
Rennlist Member
10-23-2018, 08:45 PM
#56
Rennlist Member
10-26-2018, 09:28 PM
#57
Instructor
Don’t know your budget but as the M235iR cars become available I think they are a fantastic way to go. Right know they are priced around 80k but I think as we see more hit the market I the next year or two (assumption) we should see the prices drop to 70 ish. Those cars are very well engineered, solid power train with FIA level of safety. I think it’s a great “reasonable” track car in terms of solid safety, reliability and low operating costs.
10-27-2018, 10:47 PM
#58
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
Don’t know your budget but as the M235iR cars become available I think they are a fantastic way to go. Right know they are priced around 80k but I think as we see more hit the market I the next year or two (assumption) we should see the prices drop to 70 ish. Those cars are very well engineered, solid power train with FIA level of safety. I think it’s a great “reasonable” track car in terms of solid safety, reliability and low operating costs.
Another car I like is the Exige cup car. So light bit not sure about reliability...
If I really want to get into racing I’ll have to find out what class people are racing, probably with PCA. Spec Boxster seems like a lot of fun.
10-30-2018, 01:08 PM
#59
Drifting
First off ,CTMP is a pretty challenging track and lap times are on the average 10 + seconds quicker than Tremblant and there are plenty of corners
where you can scare yourself , no matter what you drive ...
It will give you a whole new perspective regarding track awareness and what racing would be all about.
I chose to buy an " expendable " 944 and race it as compared to doing DE's with my 911 and risking expensive damage.
As for the car you choose , it would all depend on your budget at the end of the line !
Like they say ... speed costs money, how fast do you want to go ???
10-30-2018, 06:07 PM
#60
Rennlist Member
You might also look into an entry level arrive and drive series. Ideally, besides being a lot of fun and learning, the experience would provide a good foundational knowledge base for you to use in deciding what to eventually purchase and enjoy.
I’m quite happy with my Spec Boxster project. I can take the risks associated with driving it fully to the limits of my abilities, I can fit DOT slicks in the budget, and if I end up banging the car up I won’t lose any sleep over it. Long term I can race it door to door in a good class.
For this pre-racing DE stage, a dual use GT3/4 with track insurance and a warranty is another good answer. I wouldn’t drive a nice street car as hard and wouldn’t learn as quickly but that would still be a great way to go.
There are a lot of good answers... almost any informed decision that is a reasonable match for your wants and needs will leave you satisfied.
I’m quite happy with my Spec Boxster project. I can take the risks associated with driving it fully to the limits of my abilities, I can fit DOT slicks in the budget, and if I end up banging the car up I won’t lose any sleep over it. Long term I can race it door to door in a good class.
For this pre-racing DE stage, a dual use GT3/4 with track insurance and a warranty is another good answer. I wouldn’t drive a nice street car as hard and wouldn’t learn as quickly but that would still be a great way to go.
There are a lot of good answers... almost any informed decision that is a reasonable match for your wants and needs will leave you satisfied.