Tires still good?
#1
Tires still good?
Here's a picture of my front right tire (RE71R) on my 997.2 turbo. It's a counterclockwise course, so most of the wear is on the right outer edge.
I'm trying to figure out which of these i should do for the upcoming track day:
1) They are still good, leave as is
2) Swap the front right and left wheels and let the tire rotate backwards in the front
3) It's toast, replace them
Normally it'd be 3, but i'm selling the car afterwards, so it feels like a waste to swap, then have to swap again after.
Front left - Good outer edge
Front right - Worn outer edge
I'm trying to figure out which of these i should do for the upcoming track day:
1) They are still good, leave as is
2) Swap the front right and left wheels and let the tire rotate backwards in the front
3) It's toast, replace them
Normally it'd be 3, but i'm selling the car afterwards, so it feels like a waste to swap, then have to swap again after.
Front left - Good outer edge
Front right - Worn outer edge
#2
If the inside is still good - it probably is - you can get them flipped on the rim and enjoy a few more track days. Flipping involves taking both tires off the rim and mounting them so that the former outside edge is now on the inside.
#3
Three Wheelin'
I've never worn a re71 down past that point on your front right. You may have some life, but I'd think you're getting close to cording it.
Assuming it's dry, you can run re71s backward. I've done it and noticed no difference in grip.
Assuming it's dry, you can run re71s backward. I've done it and noticed no difference in grip.
#4
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I assume this is a street car.
1. Spec the alignment. You may need more camber or the toe could be off.
2. Turn right more.
That right front is about to cord. Take a good look at the rears. What do they look like?
I'd start with fresh tires and spec the alignment. Then when the alignment checks out for 'street spec' then you can head further down the slippery slope of finding the balance of street vs track.
Take a look at high performance asymmetric tires. Then you can swap wheels side to side when at the circuit with minimal hassle.
My guess is street alignment with not enough camber combined with not swapping the fronts side to side has led to premature wear of that right front.
1. Spec the alignment. You may need more camber or the toe could be off.
2. Turn right more.
That right front is about to cord. Take a good look at the rears. What do they look like?
I'd start with fresh tires and spec the alignment. Then when the alignment checks out for 'street spec' then you can head further down the slippery slope of finding the balance of street vs track.
Take a look at high performance asymmetric tires. Then you can swap wheels side to side when at the circuit with minimal hassle.
My guess is street alignment with not enough camber combined with not swapping the fronts side to side has led to premature wear of that right front.
#6
You have a lot of life left in those tires. Depending on how you drive, you have at least a weekend event on them left. I just took a set off worn all the way down to a full slick with only slight tread left on the inside (I need a bit more negative camber as well). They were doing double duty and they would not cord. Just keep in mind that while they will not heat cycle out, they do get less predictable as they continue to wear. When we put fresh tires on we were running about ~3 seconds per lap faster (1:35ish lap time).
When I took my 71Rs off last week they had 45 cycles on the front and 61 in the back (~2600lb car)
When I took my 71Rs off last week they had 45 cycles on the front and 61 in the back (~2600lb car)
#7
On my fwd car with stock camber (i.e. virtually none in front) settings I'm fortunate if my left front looks that good after one track day. Flip it on the rim and go.
Gary
Gary