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Brake failure strategies

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Old 06-29-2018, 05:31 PM
  #31  
TXE36
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Originally Posted by Brian C in Az
Goodridge Braided lines are DOT and TUV approved and cost much less than Porsche oem rubber hoses.
I've had a Goodridge SS braided brake hose catastrophically fail. In 30 years of driving, I've never had a rubber hose fail. IMO, SS brake hoses are overrated and less reliable than quality rubber hoses.

-Mike
Old 06-29-2018, 09:26 PM
  #32  
ProCoach
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Originally Posted by TXE36
I've had a Goodridge SS braided brake hose catastrophically fail. In 30 years of driving, I've never had a rubber hose fail. IMO, SS brake hoses are overrated and less reliable than quality rubber hoses.

-Mike
Especially if they’re shop made... did it pull out of the ferrule on one end? Or did it get cut through because it wasn’t secured properly through the full range of steering motion? In thirty-five years of working on Track day and competition cars, I have seen some scary ****!
Old 06-29-2018, 09:37 PM
  #33  
Paseb
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So, i have been having pads knockback for years with my race cars.

Even now with a 10k stoptech brake setup, i had no brakes after the esses for the left hander at VIR. I do left foot braking but sometimes its a fast set of corners like that, the time is short.

I wonder if theres alternatives to fix that issue, cause clearly, im leaving time on the table, for sure.

Other examples

Bishop at sebring, no brakes
Braking zone before bus stop at glen, no brakes
Braking zone at corner 6 glen, no brakes


Etc
Old 06-29-2018, 09:46 PM
  #34  
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Originally Posted by Paseb
So, i have been having pads knockback for years with my race cars.

Even now with a 10k stoptech brake setup, i had no brakes after the esses for the left hander at VIR. I do left foot braking but sometimes its a fast set of corners like that, the time is short.

I wonder if theres alternatives to fix that issue, cause clearly, im leaving time on the table, for sure.

Other examples

Bishop at sebring, no brakes
Braking zone before bus stop at glen, no brakes
Braking zone at corner 6 glen, no brakes


Etc
Something is wrong with the car, then...
Old 06-29-2018, 09:50 PM
  #35  
Paseb
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Originally Posted by ProCoach
Something is wrong with the car, then...
Yes but what is? Car has all the goodies you can think of except motorsport abs.

If i push pedal enough, brakes will be firm and strong , but it goes very low/down after all big speed corners.
Old 06-30-2018, 09:03 AM
  #36  
MarcD147
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Does it go low even if you don't hit curbs? Or bumps?

Eg high G? Sustained for how long?
Old 06-30-2018, 09:29 AM
  #37  
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Originally Posted by Paseb
If i push pedal enough, brakes will be firm and strong , but it goes very low/down after all big speed corners.
This is indicative of the rotors moving side to side, hubs within the upright exhibiting too much axial play. Has nothing to do with the brakes. The brakes work when you take the “slack” cause by the rotor pushing the pads (hence pistons) back into the caliper bodies.
Old 06-30-2018, 11:02 AM
  #38  
Paseb
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So rotors issues?

rotors are stop tech that came with the kit

Haha
Old 06-30-2018, 12:05 PM
  #39  
coryf
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Stoptech isn't the ideal choice imo. Its a great street kit but not as good as others like PFC, Brembo, Alcon.

You can try knock back springs behind the pistons. Its a very light spring that helps take up slack from loose floating rotors. I would look closely at the rotor hats and wheel bearings if you are getting a significant amount of kick back.
Old 07-01-2018, 06:35 PM
  #40  
p997s123
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Originally Posted by Paseb
Yes but what is? Car has all the goodies you can think of except motorsport abs.

If i push pedal enough, brakes will be firm and strong , but it goes very low/down after all big speed corners.
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Old 07-02-2018, 11:39 AM
  #41  
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Originally Posted by ProCoach


This is indicative of the rotors moving side to side, hubs within the upright exhibiting too much axial play. Has nothing to do with the brakes. The brakes work when you take the “slack” cause by the rotor pushing the pads (hence pistons) back into the caliper bodies.
this! exactly this! one of my race cars was exhibiting the exact behavior you are describing (major pad knockback after high speed right handed corners which was made even worse if a rough curb was being used also); I went through the entire braking system replacing everything and still no improvement (had to left foot pump the brakes approaching any brakezone after a fast right turn just to be sure the brakes were there). I had checked the front hubs/bearings for play (this a front wheel drive car) and everything seemed fine; but finally I decided to replace the left front hub/bearing/knuckle anyway (in desperation). voila! problem TOTALLY fixed. zero knockback and no soft brakes. apparently the wheelbearing must have had enough wear in it that it would deflect under high load and push the pads back with the rotor (thus the very soft pedal/no brakes), but not enough wear to be able to feel it with the car jacked up and grabbing the wheel at 12 and 6 and rocking it (felt fine). I'd STRONGLY recommend that you look at all your wheel bearings/hubs and even if you think they are ok, consider replacing them. good luck!
Old 07-02-2018, 12:40 PM
  #42  
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What about running dual master cylinders to isolate failure points to front/rear?
Old 07-02-2018, 02:06 PM
  #43  
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d15 above! SO TRUE

Can be a combination of specific setup tendencies AND WEAR
Old 07-02-2018, 03:48 PM
  #44  
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Originally Posted by alexaqui
What about running dual master cylinders to isolate failure points to front/rear?
Does help somewhat of course, but when one of the brake circuits fails and goes completely soft, it will take up your pedal travel and limit the amount of pressure you can build in the non-failed circuit. Ask me how I know ...
Old 07-02-2018, 04:55 PM
  #45  
TXE36
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Originally Posted by ProCoach


Especially if they’re shop made... did it pull out of the ferrule on one end? Or did it get cut through because it wasn’t secured properly through the full range of steering motion? In thirty-five years of working on Track day and competition cars, I have seen some scary ****!
Factory Jaguar part with the Goodridge label on it. Left rear on a 2003 Jaguar XJR with the factory Brembo package. Broke inside the mesh near where the line joined the fitting near the frame. When it popped, it was just leaking fluid through the braid. It popped while demonstrating the braking exercise at a car control school and had to be flatbedded home. The brake line today looks absolutely normal - it just won't hold fluid.

Given this was the rear, the motion was very benign as compared to what it would be on the front steering axle. Just up and down with the right amount of slack. I replaced all the lines with factory rubber and haven't had a problem since.

I also had another almost failure on the race car. The E36s have two brake lines per side in the rear. One of those lines was in the process of working off the fitting at one end when I caught it. All the rear lines were replaced with rubber. Up front, SS is the only options with the Stoptech calipers so those are on a two year replacement schedule. If I could replace those with rubber I would.

Professionally I have experience with error rates. Items with truly low error rates do not fail in the customer's hands. Generally speaking, if you see something fail over a few year period the failure rate is quite high. The Jag failure happened in 2011 and the race car was 2015is. Those are just my personal experiences. I've never seen or had a rubber brake hose fail. Therefore, fail rates for rubber are much, much lower than braided SS. The worst thing with old hoses is not as firm brake pedal feel. Fresh rubber hoses feel just as firm as SS.

-Mike


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