Stickier Tires --> higher temp brake pads?
#1
Stickier Tires --> higher temp brake pads?
I'm planning on getting a second set of wheels and HPDE specific tires (which I plan on driving to the track on). Having not made a decision on tires, but reading lots of good things about RE71s, NT01, and R888R, I'm wondering if/how the more sticky tire will impact brake system loads. Driving a C2S, and have never experienced any brake fade/softness on any of the three tracks I'll be running on a regular basis.
If a more heat sensitive pad is required, what are good choices?
If a more heat sensitive pad is required, what are good choices?
#2
Race Director
I'm planning on getting a second set of wheels and HPDE specific tires (which I plan on driving to the track on). Having not made a decision on tires, but reading lots of good things about RE71s, NT01, and R888R, I'm wondering if/how the more sticky tire will impact brake system loads. Driving a C2S, and have never experienced any brake fade/softness on any of the three tracks I'll be running on a regular basis.
If a more heat sensitive pad is required, what are good choices?
If a more heat sensitive pad is required, what are good choices?
Are you solo yet?
Depending on some factors....however, r-comp tires will allow faster laps and put more stress on the brakes. Usually I tell guys when they move to r-comp track tires they need to upgrade the brake pads to handle the heat as they get faster and more skilled on the track.
#3
Instructor
That really depends on the driver's skill. If you are a really good driver with good weight control and smooth transitions from brake to power, then the OEM pads are more than adequate for street tires; assuming that the pads are not more than 50% worn. I see many drivers that are hard on the brakes because they do not realize how harsh their inputs to the car are and they are causing the computer to settle the car via ABS. There is a simple test for this. If your rear brake pads wear more quickly than your front pads, then your driving technique is not correct. If you can feel more heat coming off the rear rotors than the front rotors when you finish your session, then your technique is not correct.
Last HPDE, I saw a new guy with instructor in car wear more than 50% off his rear pads in 3 sessions. He started with 75% pad and ended with under 25% pad thickness and boiled his fluid repeatedly. The front pads looked pretty much the same at the end of the day as they did in the beginning. I fully flushed his brakes with better fluid to help him, but it was his driving technique that caused PSM and ABS to tear up the rear pads.
Hawk makes very good pads if you are ready for a better pad.
http://www.hawkpadsdirect.com/category-s/103.htm
Last HPDE, I saw a new guy with instructor in car wear more than 50% off his rear pads in 3 sessions. He started with 75% pad and ended with under 25% pad thickness and boiled his fluid repeatedly. The front pads looked pretty much the same at the end of the day as they did in the beginning. I fully flushed his brakes with better fluid to help him, but it was his driving technique that caused PSM and ABS to tear up the rear pads.
Hawk makes very good pads if you are ready for a better pad.
http://www.hawkpadsdirect.com/category-s/103.htm
#4
Rennlist Member
PFC08's are what I'm running with my AD08R's. Good match for me. If you're going stickier like Nittos, Pagids work great. They were a bit to grippy for the tires I'm running.
#5
Addict
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
That really depends on the driver's skill. If you are a really good driver with good weight control and smooth transitions from brake to power, then the OEM pads are more than adequate for street tires; assuming that the pads are not more than 50% worn. I see many drivers that are hard on the brakes because they do not realize how harsh their inputs to the car are and they are causing the computer to settle the car via ABS.
#6
More details:
YES on Solo, took some laps with an instructor at the end of the last HPDE and he suggested I'm ready for Intermediate, so I'll likely ask to move at the first event next year.
2009 997.2 S with PDK
I've been told I'm pretty smooth. The front brakes are hotter (infrared temp measurement, but I don't log the info. so don't ask).
I am at about 50% of the pads, which are stock, so will need to change regardlesss, and this is after 5 events.
What Pagids? Other choices like Frodo?
YES on Solo, took some laps with an instructor at the end of the last HPDE and he suggested I'm ready for Intermediate, so I'll likely ask to move at the first event next year.
2009 997.2 S with PDK
I've been told I'm pretty smooth. The front brakes are hotter (infrared temp measurement, but I don't log the info. so don't ask).
I am at about 50% of the pads, which are stock, so will need to change regardlesss, and this is after 5 events.
What Pagids? Other choices like Frodo?
#7
Drifting
For RE71, R888, NT01 a medium duty track pad would be fine. In fact a really aggressive high temp compound may overwhelm the tires. For NT01's I run Hawk DTC60, for Pirelli DH slicks I run DTC70.
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#8
Rennlist Member
i agree though for a dual track street application, use a moderate temp race pad and you will be just fine. (pagid Orange RS4-4 eqiv)
#9
Drifting
Depends on driver , track ,weather, cooling on brake pads, car, weight.
Reference point. 3 weeks ago i did a brake flush. I checked pads and rotors. I thought i would have to change. Fronts and rear pads (pfc08/01) showed over 60% still left. I have 20k miles on them and 6 track days. (IIRC). When on track i use Pirelli sticky's. I'm not slow either but i'm very "easy" on equipment. As Fangio would say, less brakes more gas.
Reference point. 3 weeks ago i did a brake flush. I checked pads and rotors. I thought i would have to change. Fronts and rear pads (pfc08/01) showed over 60% still left. I have 20k miles on them and 6 track days. (IIRC). When on track i use Pirelli sticky's. I'm not slow either but i'm very "easy" on equipment. As Fangio would say, less brakes more gas.
#10
It really depends on what your goals are.
I can't stress enough the benefits you will gain as a driver by resisting the urge to upgrade your tires - you can learn so much more about how to hustle a car properly on tires that slide around. Make sure your tires are the weak link (and not the driver) before upgrading to more track focused rubber.
If your goals are to continue to learn and refine your technique - there's no reason to upgrade your brakes or tires. Track tires/pads can mask a lot of bad habits - or make it harder to learn good ones.
If your goals are to more easily build speed - then by all means stickier rubber and more aggressive pads will make it easier to lower lap times. I would do both (tires and pads/fluid) at the same time.
Lastly - if your goal is to have a pad that will hold up to more abuse and outlast your stock pads then by all means there is no harm in running a pad optimized for "endurance racing" - something like Pagid RS29s (yellow) will last substantially longer on track than your stock pads. They will be harder on your rotors as well.
I can't stress enough the benefits you will gain as a driver by resisting the urge to upgrade your tires - you can learn so much more about how to hustle a car properly on tires that slide around. Make sure your tires are the weak link (and not the driver) before upgrading to more track focused rubber.
If your goals are to continue to learn and refine your technique - there's no reason to upgrade your brakes or tires. Track tires/pads can mask a lot of bad habits - or make it harder to learn good ones.
If your goals are to more easily build speed - then by all means stickier rubber and more aggressive pads will make it easier to lower lap times. I would do both (tires and pads/fluid) at the same time.
Lastly - if your goal is to have a pad that will hold up to more abuse and outlast your stock pads then by all means there is no harm in running a pad optimized for "endurance racing" - something like Pagid RS29s (yellow) will last substantially longer on track than your stock pads. They will be harder on your rotors as well.
#11
I get the driver part, truly. More background for clarity. Over the last two years, I've attended 5 HPDE events conducted by our chapter (PNWR). I want to do more each year, say 4-5-6. I've been told by some of the participants that once you do over around 4-5 events a year it makes sense to invest in a second set of wheels and tires as the "over/under" of grinding through good street tires (Michelin Pilot Super Sports right now)
starts to get considerably more expensive. Since I'm planning on being at or over this 'threshold,' I'm starting to look at choices. Seems a slippery slope, though: wheels, tires, jack, torque wrench, pads... Anyway, hope this helps and advise always welcome.
starts to get considerably more expensive. Since I'm planning on being at or over this 'threshold,' I'm starting to look at choices. Seems a slippery slope, though: wheels, tires, jack, torque wrench, pads... Anyway, hope this helps and advise always welcome.
#12
I get the driver part, truly. More background for clarity. Over the last two years, I've attended 5 HPDE events conducted by our chapter (PNWR). I want to do more each year, say 4-5-6. I've been told by some of the participants that once you do over around 4-5 events a year it makes sense to invest in a second set of wheels and tires as the "over/under" of grinding through good street tires (Michelin Pilot Super Sports right now)
starts to get considerably more expensive. Since I'm planning on being at or over this 'threshold,' I'm starting to look at choices. Seems a slippery slope, though: wheels, tires, jack, torque wrench, pads... Anyway, hope this helps and advise always welcome.
starts to get considerably more expensive. Since I'm planning on being at or over this 'threshold,' I'm starting to look at choices. Seems a slippery slope, though: wheels, tires, jack, torque wrench, pads... Anyway, hope this helps and advise always welcome.
I'd go with a cheap high performance street tire - one that you can still drive to the track, run in the rain, etc... Mount these on a set of dedicated "track" wheels and keep em dirty, scratched up, and full of marbles for more street cred in the paddock. There's no need to tear up a set of expensive Michelin street tires on the track. I ran Sumitomo HTRZIIIs for dozens and dozens of track events. When you're consistently and safely out driving others on slicks in your Sumi's then you know you're getting somewhere!
#13
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-Peter Krause
www.peterkrause.net
www.gofasternow.com
"Combining the Art and Science of Driving Fast!"
Specializing in Professional, Private Driver Performance Evaluation and Optimization
Consultation Available Remotely and at VIRginia International Raceway
#14
Rennlist Member
Theoretically, you might not be taxing your brakes any harder with R compound due to the higher cornering speeds, particularly the turn in speeds. you can brake later,harder and for a shorter duration, and to a higher final speed..... there is a possibility that you might even work the brakes less. (Depends on car, driver , set up, track, conditions,etc )
#15
Instructor
I'd go with a cheap high performance street tire - one that you can still drive to the track, run in the rain, etc... Mount these on a set of dedicated "track" wheels and keep em dirty, scratched up, and full of marbles for more street cred in the paddock. There's no need to tear up a set of expensive Michelin street tires on the track.
I recently switched from RE-71r to Firestone FireHawk Indy 500 tires. I'm having a ton more fun with the car, track times didn't increase more than a percent or two. The FireHawks give a lot of good feedback, they slide predictably, the recovery is great. And they are CHEAP!!! Under $150 each