Question about bump steer setting
#1
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
Question about bump steer setting
Car: 987.2 CS
Stock ride height on OEM non PASM struts
I just installed RSS #312 rear toe links. Each arm comes with 2 6mm thick spacers that can be used to locate the spherical bearing relative to the wheel carrier.
I am not sure how many of the spacers I should use.
The advice I got from RSS when I called was to eyeball it and make the toe link as parallel to the LCA as I could. That actually seems to require more than the 12mm of shim supplied.
My goal for installing these arms in the first place was to be able to increase the rear camber a bit more than the stock toe arm allowed.
Does anyone know what spacing I should use for an otherwise stock rear suspension?
Stock ride height on OEM non PASM struts
I just installed RSS #312 rear toe links. Each arm comes with 2 6mm thick spacers that can be used to locate the spherical bearing relative to the wheel carrier.
I am not sure how many of the spacers I should use.
The advice I got from RSS when I called was to eyeball it and make the toe link as parallel to the LCA as I could. That actually seems to require more than the 12mm of shim supplied.
My goal for installing these arms in the first place was to be able to increase the rear camber a bit more than the stock toe arm allowed.
Does anyone know what spacing I should use for an otherwise stock rear suspension?
#2
There's an old thread on Planet 9 regarding this topic. I tried various combinations and basically decided it didn't make much difference. Some believe it made things worse. I believe I was told to make the toe link parallel with the floor.
#3
Rennlist Member
The best thing to do is go through the process of measuring the bump curve yourself. Shim (or not) to taste then test on track with a couple different static toe settings.
#4
Three Wheelin'
With bump steer, the only good way is to measure it on your car and adjust accordingly. Even replicating a similar car's setup on which bump steer has been properly set, may not yield a good setting on your car due to the number of settings that impact it and the usual small differences from one car's settings compared to another's. Alignment settings, tire/wheel size, ride height, different suspension pieces, etc. all figure into the equation.
Scott
Scott
#6
I've just recently done this on my track car, so I've been able to do some self-education through the process to better understand what is going on.
The only truly accurate way to measure bump steer correction is to remove the shock/spring and range the suspension while assessing toe displacement.
You can certainly get a "close-enough" without removing the shock, though. First, set your desired ride height (which is a whole nuther discussion) and then work on getting your toe links closer to level with the ground using the spacers. From my discussions with the race mechanic that worked on my car, you do NOT want the links parallel with the ground. Around 15-20 degrees off horizontal is optimal as some pre-load through the link is required for stability. This will still give appropriate toe consistency through the suspension's range of movement.
Once your bump correction is done, then set your desired toe, check and then recheck as you go around and adjust each wheel.
Once this is done properly, the rear of the car will be much more confidence inspiring particularly under high compression braking, will be able to get on throttle sooner, and will be quicker in taking a set for corners. Reducing the amount of deflection and movement in the rear of 987s is one of the best upgrades you can do for performance. Anyone who says their car was worse after toe link installation with bump steer correction either had the toe incorrectly set or is smoking crack.
Keep us posted on how it goes.
The only truly accurate way to measure bump steer correction is to remove the shock/spring and range the suspension while assessing toe displacement.
You can certainly get a "close-enough" without removing the shock, though. First, set your desired ride height (which is a whole nuther discussion) and then work on getting your toe links closer to level with the ground using the spacers. From my discussions with the race mechanic that worked on my car, you do NOT want the links parallel with the ground. Around 15-20 degrees off horizontal is optimal as some pre-load through the link is required for stability. This will still give appropriate toe consistency through the suspension's range of movement.
Once your bump correction is done, then set your desired toe, check and then recheck as you go around and adjust each wheel.
Once this is done properly, the rear of the car will be much more confidence inspiring particularly under high compression braking, will be able to get on throttle sooner, and will be quicker in taking a set for corners. Reducing the amount of deflection and movement in the rear of 987s is one of the best upgrades you can do for performance. Anyone who says their car was worse after toe link installation with bump steer correction either had the toe incorrectly set or is smoking crack.
Keep us posted on how it goes.