nuvolari612

I can't predict the future current market and past 04 vs 05 is less - to be clear I didn't start the conversation simply telling my experience.

Turning a **** is not worth the premium for an 05 but when spending I listen to the experts of which I am simply repeating based on my experience of which I reflected in my post. Pumping up my car by posting - you think I care about pumping up my car or simply helping a guy make a decision based on experience - it's not my money he asked a question that deserved an answer and by you stating zero difference adding future prices will be no different is IMO you pumping up your 04

Jrtaylor9

A buyer should use any reason he can to negotiate a better deal. I'd try to use the 04 thing to get a better deal. Based on my research and a few conversation of those that have first hand experience, I'm almost indifferent which one I choose to actually own/drive. But by all means, use it as a negotiating leverage point when you are buying. And use the 05-is-better when you are trying to sell. Some people will truly care; others, like me, will just see how much it can help them on either side of the coin of negotiations.

I don't think the 04 represents any mechanical/functional/reliability/performance inferiority to the 05, if that is your concern. If it's resale/negotiation, just use it for what it is.

nuvolari612

Just saw the 05 asking 699k 4500 miles sell quick - real seller / real buyer. F car market went nuts it's come back down whereas the CGT has been steady speaks volumes as to the value of the car maintenance re-spray miles IMO make for a ridiculous spread considering for 25 - 40k one can have a mechanically perfect car.

The CGT response to an early question - at any mileage condition is a collectors car the question is what premium someone can justify to stroke a check think it's more relative to ones means majority of collectors who wanted one has one they may trade up for a better example often the CGT is the only Porsche in top collections which again speaks volumes as to the value even at 699k whereas we had the same discussions not long ago at 400k!

isv

I'd say over 10k miles as there is a huge mileage premium for the cars. fwiw I don't believe there will be any difference in actually driving an 04 or 05 car, especially for those that have been properly maintained up to now and driven a semi decent amount. Value wise yes but cheaper in and cheaper out. Expensive in doesn't always mean the same out imo. I have a pretty late car but that was more because it was the best example I could find when I was going to looking at buying one and certainly not age related so it's also not that I have a vested interest in talking up the 04 cars.

JasonAndreas

I believe the technical term for it is called PEBPAS (problem-exists-between-pedal-and-seat) and as you said was originally handled as goodwill by individual regional reps?. I know one or two from back then are still on here, maybe they can comment?


The price spread should shrink as potential buyers are better educated about the actual changes year-to-year.

nuvolari612

Speculation - had mine for a couple of years we are now 13 years in I think that ship sailed it is what it is. It would be far more impressive argument if someone listed a last sale 04 vs 05 similar condition. It's a pricing thread let the numbers speak for themselves would love to see actual numbers.

Jrtaylor9

I don't own either. So I don't have an agenda. But, I have been looking for quite a while. It ain't 10% today. It might be 5%. So maybe $ spread is close to similar when u bought, but % is way tighter. But regardless of what year u bought, u win. Because u can barely buy a wrecked, 30kmi Cgt for the price u paid! Who care what the 04/05 has done; you bot a 400k Cgt!

Me&You

Personally, I think condition, history & servicing should be the determining factors when buying a car.

Beyond that, ​​​​​​I think the concerns over values should be framed around the relative entry / exit points. Pay more for an 05 now, expect to get more when (if) you decide to sell. Pay less for an 04 now, don't expect as much when (if) you decide to sell.

W8MM

The Carrera GT clutch "problem" has nothing to do with the clutch. It has to do with the teeny-tiny flywheel inertia built into the engine. The low rotating mass allows the engine to rev like a motorcycle and supplies very little rotational energy to "dump" into a starting-from-rest event.

Plenty of drivers like to rev the engine a little (stores up some rotational energy) and then let out the clutch while the revs are still up. This driver-dependent technique usually can be gotten away with in cars with ordinary high-mass flywheels because the flywheel has enough stored energy to move the car from rest before it is all used up. Not so with the Carrera GT. If one used this technique with a CGT, one immediately stalled the car because all the flywheel energy was exhausted before the engine turned over a few revolutions.

Even Car and Driver summed up trying to get good 1/4-mile times or 0-60 times as "burn, buck, or stall". All from side-effects of that gorgeous, motorcycle-like, free-revving, low-mass flywheel.

The "idle-control" loop in the ECU was augmented to be able to keep the car running after clutch release with no throttle application as a driver workaround.

nuvolari612

ECU senses the clutch engaging - signals the engine to send rpm blips / feathering the throttle to avoid stalling.

ECU clutch engagement works in 1st and 2nd - if you need to make a warm CGT "scoot" mirror the ECU by adding rpm's producing a quicker off the line no harm result simply copy what the ECU is doing by applying blips of additional throttle again it does not harm the clutch. Back then the F1s were clunky Porsche did excellent on the CGT they simply assumed they had 1200 F1 customers.

04 - 05 ECU differences have no idea but on the 05 it does zero damage - clutch is not the problem it's operator error.

E-Man

Jrtaylor9

Edit: this is way OT. I should post in a separate thread.

I've driven a CGT once a while back and was just super deliberate about letting the ECU auto clutch engagement feature do its thing. I took off like a grandma every time. However, to me, it's almost 2nd nature to give a little throttle blip right before clutch gets in the zone where it grabs. On a cgt (once warm), does that work if you manually blip it before it grabs? Is it suggested that you only use ECU clutch engagement every time? Does the ECU auto-engage still happen if you blip the throttle; meaning u can't stop the auto-blip/engage fr happening regardless?

I know I just need to get behind the wheel and feel it out. I'm not a heel/toe god but I'm pretty decent getting the most difficult clutches to engage well in 1st (not rocket science if you've driven a lot of older and/or LWFW vehicles; it's just feel from experience).

I'm curious if everyone used the ECU auto clutch engage or if people get the hang of it enough that they engage 1st manually (or if that's even possible with the ECU programming)?

nuvolari612

You still have the AWE - that video is the only one I refuse to delete.

E-Man

Yes I do. I keep it just incase I want to scare all women and children within a two mile radius.

E-Man

Speaking of the youtube video, It's really impressive he does not stall the car while driving it this way. He's really good. I guess that's why he was (is) a professional race car driver, cuz that's not nearly as easy as it looks.
I'd love to do that in my car but I'm too chicken I'd wear the clutch down.