Carrera GT clutch confusion
#1
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
Carrera GT clutch confusion
I can't seem to find any definitive info on this so I thought I'd ask.
So as I've understood it since day one, you HAVE to let the clutch out without pressing the throttle until the car starts to roll and then you can give it gas, otherwise you will burn the clutch. Is this 100% true? Can you not drive the car as you would a normal manual transmission and give it gas as you are letting out the clutch (overriding the anti-stall feature) without burning up the clutch, or do you have to rely on the anti-stall every single time?
I've been driving it as I've been told to do and have stalled it an embarrassing amount. I would love to know if you could just drive the thing like a regular manual.
So as I've understood it since day one, you HAVE to let the clutch out without pressing the throttle until the car starts to roll and then you can give it gas, otherwise you will burn the clutch. Is this 100% true? Can you not drive the car as you would a normal manual transmission and give it gas as you are letting out the clutch (overriding the anti-stall feature) without burning up the clutch, or do you have to rely on the anti-stall every single time?
I've been driving it as I've been told to do and have stalled it an embarrassing amount. I would love to know if you could just drive the thing like a regular manual.
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17bhub (08-12-2020)
#2
I can't seem to find any definitive info on this so I thought I'd ask.
So as I've understood it since day one, you HAVE to let the clutch out without pressing the throttle until the car starts to roll and then you can give it gas, otherwise you will burn the clutch. Is this 100% true? Can you not drive the car as you would a normal manual transmission and give it gas as you are letting out the clutch (overriding the anti-stall feature) without burning up the clutch, or do you have to rely on the anti-stall every single time?
I've been driving it as I've been told to do and have stalled it an embarrassing amount. I would love to know if you could just drive the thing like a regular manual.
So as I've understood it since day one, you HAVE to let the clutch out without pressing the throttle until the car starts to roll and then you can give it gas, otherwise you will burn the clutch. Is this 100% true? Can you not drive the car as you would a normal manual transmission and give it gas as you are letting out the clutch (overriding the anti-stall feature) without burning up the clutch, or do you have to rely on the anti-stall every single time?
I've been driving it as I've been told to do and have stalled it an embarrassing amount. I would love to know if you could just drive the thing like a regular manual.
The only thing this clutch handles quite well is dumping it on launches, go figure, but giving gas before the full bite point will eat it thru in no time.
By any chancr do you have a 2004 with low miles on the first clutch or a car that barely saw the service center? Because there are 2 updates on it from early cars, one is software of the anti stall, the other is, I think, the coupler or some of the contact points to the clutch that has quite a different design to the early cars and apparently helped with feel of the clutch, less wear (maybe helps maintaining balance), less stallings, but the early cars are still not that hard, just practice.
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heshalosny (08-06-2020)
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17bhub (08-12-2020)
#4
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
Did you ever drove a manual diesel car? You just ride the clutch on bumper to bumper traffic, the main difference is that you really can't give gas on the cgt, just go to a deserted road and just find the bite point and ride it over and over (don't even touch the accelarator).
The only thing this clutch handles quite well is dumping it on launches, go figure, but giving gas before the full bite point will eat it thru in no time.
By any chancr do you have a 2004 with low miles on the first clutch or a car that barely saw the service center? Because there are 2 updates on it from early cars, one is software of the anti stall, the other is, I think, the coupler or some of the contact points to the clutch that has quite a different design to the early cars and apparently helped with feel of the clutch, less wear (maybe helps maintaining balance), less stallings, but the early cars are still not that hard, just practice.
The only thing this clutch handles quite well is dumping it on launches, go figure, but giving gas before the full bite point will eat it thru in no time.
By any chancr do you have a 2004 with low miles on the first clutch or a car that barely saw the service center? Because there are 2 updates on it from early cars, one is software of the anti stall, the other is, I think, the coupler or some of the contact points to the clutch that has quite a different design to the early cars and apparently helped with feel of the clutch, less wear (maybe helps maintaining balance), less stallings, but the early cars are still not that hard, just practice.
Would be nice to know that I could just stab the throttle and let the clutch out and set off quickly like a normal car. Not a problem if not; the car is magnificent anyway.
#5
No throttle. Did 18k miles this way. clutch went from 30.1 to 29.8
numbers don't lie.
numbers don't lie.
#6
Use your ears also, you will hear when the auto throttle catches the releasing clutch, there will be a small rev tick when it does, at that point you can fully let out the clutch and give it throttle. On a hill, use the hand brake, or keep your right foot on the brake pedal, when you hear the rev tick you are cleared to go.
#7
So here's a never been heard, WORLD PREMIERE cgt clutch fact! At least i have never read it anywhere every before, including cgt oem literature. OUR CAR HAS AUTO HILL ASSIST! However, you need to get caught at a dead stop on a steeeeeep *** incline. It won't work on a normal incline. And I couldn't just roll backwards. I instantly got zapped in max alert mode and told my passenger to STFU so i can hear the mechanicals. I was about to modulate the clutch, brake and ebrake like noone else in history has ever done. As I'm testing the engagement point, i was like what the hell?! This car has HILL ASSIST! I was fully on the clutch in 1st gear on the super steep hill and as i slowly released the clutch the cgt didn't give me 1 extra rev to perfectly disengage the clutch and go up the hill! It modulated the throttle AND the brakes of course! I was not on the brake pedal or ebrake! And it didn't roll backwards 1 drop! I wish that damn programming could be redone to work on easier angles.
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17bhub (08-12-2020)
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#8
Drifting
My car is an ‘05 with recent engine out service. I don’t stall it every time I drive it, just seems to happen more if I’m in a group of more modern dual clutch cars and there’s pressure on to get moving quickly.
Would be nice to know that I could just stab the throttle and let the clutch out and set off quickly like a normal car. Not a problem if not; the car is magnificent anyway.
Would be nice to know that I could just stab the throttle and let the clutch out and set off quickly like a normal car. Not a problem if not; the car is magnificent anyway.
I now anticipate the start or let em go avoiding loose gravel being shot in all directions.
#9
My car is an ‘05 with recent engine out service. I don’t stall it every time I drive it, just seems to happen more if I’m in a group of more modern dual clutch cars and there’s pressure on to get moving quickly.
Would be nice to know that I could just stab the throttle and let the clutch out and set off quickly like a normal car. Not a problem if not; the car is magnificent anyway.
Would be nice to know that I could just stab the throttle and let the clutch out and set off quickly like a normal car. Not a problem if not; the car is magnificent anyway.
#10
The mac f1 has a very similar setup and requires alignment of the clutch regurlarly. I wouldn't be surprised the cgt would benefict from a similar service and if that is not the reason the 1st mm of clutch goes so quickly...
#11
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
I certainly don’t mind driving the car like I have been, which is the recommended method. If I were to drive the car more than twice a month I would stall it less.
I don’t stall it usually but in a big group the other day of mostly DCT cars, I stalled twice due to letting out the clutch a bit too fast. Just need to drive it more and try giving it more gas when it starts to roll so that maybe I’ll leave the line faster.
I don’t stall it usually but in a big group the other day of mostly DCT cars, I stalled twice due to letting out the clutch a bit too fast. Just need to drive it more and try giving it more gas when it starts to roll so that maybe I’ll leave the line faster.
#12
You have to give the anti-stall a little patience versus a more modern or traditional car.
It can help to strategize at a light by stopping short a bit, then beginning to engage the anti-stall as the cross traffic gets a yellow or red light. That way, you're already rolling by the time your light goes green, and you aren't holding anybody up. It's also fine to stand on the brake until just before the bite-point (when the revs begin to rise) to avoid rolling backwards, something you can only do on the handbrake in most traditional manual cars.
Have driven CGTs on busy roads and loaded them into ramped trucks using these methods and never had an issue with stalling.
It can help to strategize at a light by stopping short a bit, then beginning to engage the anti-stall as the cross traffic gets a yellow or red light. That way, you're already rolling by the time your light goes green, and you aren't holding anybody up. It's also fine to stand on the brake until just before the bite-point (when the revs begin to rise) to avoid rolling backwards, something you can only do on the handbrake in most traditional manual cars.
Have driven CGTs on busy roads and loaded them into ramped trucks using these methods and never had an issue with stalling.
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17bhub (08-12-2020)
#14
Drifting
Few pictures added
Last edited by nuvolari612; 08-07-2020 at 10:08 AM.
#15
You have to give the anti-stall a little patience versus a more modern or traditional car.
It can help to strategize at a light by stopping short a bit, then beginning to engage the anti-stall as the cross traffic gets a yellow or red light. That way, you're already rolling by the time your light goes green, and you aren't holding anybody up. It's also fine to stand on the brake until just before the bite-point (when the revs begin to rise) to avoid rolling backwards, something you can only do on the handbrake in most traditional manual cars.
Have driven CGTs on busy roads and loaded them into ramped trucks using these methods and never had an issue with stalling.
It can help to strategize at a light by stopping short a bit, then beginning to engage the anti-stall as the cross traffic gets a yellow or red light. That way, you're already rolling by the time your light goes green, and you aren't holding anybody up. It's also fine to stand on the brake until just before the bite-point (when the revs begin to rise) to avoid rolling backwards, something you can only do on the handbrake in most traditional manual cars.
Have driven CGTs on busy roads and loaded them into ramped trucks using these methods and never had an issue with stalling.
I've had my car 7 years with 9000 miles of usage. Clutch was 29 mm at purchase and still the same. Just have to learn the nuances.