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Old 09-29-2017, 03:30 PM
  #16  
EVONick
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Originally Posted by Larryf View Post
Because the plug has a tendancy to pop out of the holder. It's very small and tucked up under the top of the glove box vs a more traditional car or Porsche location. Trust me, this is one of the easiest, cheapest and most $$ saving mods one can do on their CGT to pretty much guarantee the battery stays on a tender as needed.
I'll do it when I take the car in next, but for now the glovebox will have to suffice. Presumably it works, just not ideally.

Originally Posted by mark.jorgensen View Post
"Bing! Bing! Bing! We have a winner!
Yes, Canada is the answer. The car was delivered in SoCal, but spent the last 7 years in Vancouver. I just tested the exact behavior of the lights today, and they act as if you had switched them on all the time: low beams, running lights, taillights. So the switch turns on the dash lights in position 1, and nothing changes from Pos 1 > 2. I'll have my guy look into whether things were re-wired, or Canada just uses a different switch."




Generally it is a reflash in the body control modules not so much a hardware thing although not positive on this with the CGT.
I'll let him know and report back here with the procedure, once it is back to US spec.

Originally Posted by CGT000 View Post
I have a question. When I bought my 2nd CGT, I had the dealer install a new battery. I kept the car in storage and would start the car every few months. About a year ago, I noticed the car was not plugged in the battery tender. When I tried to plug it on the port in the glove box, the plug would not stay in. Not sure what happened but after this happened I could not get the car started. I tried to boost the battery using dealer's booster battery but the car would start and die so now I have to install a new battery. Did the battery go bad because it got completely drained or it went bad because the car was not driven regularly.
From my experience with other batteries going dead from rarely driven cars, I'd say that the battery discharged enough to kill it. Some batteries can come back using "smart" modes on some better chargers, and other batteries are specifically made for deep discharge cycles, but long story short, you can't just start the car every once in awhile because that in and of itself drains the battery, and you'd have to go for a very long drive to charge it back.

I recently had the battery die in a new Miata. I only drove it every month or so, and even though I'd take it for a 2-3hr drive, the drain from starting it was too much to recharge the battery via its charging system, and over a year of doing this the car wouldn't start anymore. My home charger, a NOCO Genius, was able to "condition" the battery back to life.
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Old 09-29-2017, 04:20 PM
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Originally Posted by CGT000 View Post
I have a question. When I bought my 2nd CGT, I had the dealer install a new battery. I kept the car in storage and would start the car every few months. About a year ago, I noticed the car was not plugged in the battery tender. When I tried to plug it on the port in the glove box, the plug would not stay in. Not sure what happened but after this happened I could not get the car started. I tried to boost the battery using dealer's booster battery but the car would start and die so now I have to install a new battery. Did the battery go bad because it got completely drained or it went bad because the car was not driven regularly.
end of day, tenders are still bad for batteries over the long haul. The battery cell ends up getting cooked even with a trickle. Best remedy: drive them often, drive them hard!
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Old 09-29-2017, 04:37 PM
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Originally Posted by Larryf View Post
end of day, tenders are still bad for batteries over the long haul. The battery cell ends up getting cooked even with a trickle. Best remedy: drive them often, drive them hard!

True words. Also the new Porsche AGM (gel) batteries fit and are less prone to these issues
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Old 09-29-2017, 06:16 PM
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Jimmy,

What are the part numbers please for the Porsche AGM batteries?

Thank you.
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Old 09-29-2017, 09:32 PM
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I had the GMG exhaust on mine and loved it. It sounded like stock but more of it. Not too raspy. I guess some people have had issues with them but they have always been good to me and I’m not local. Even have their stuff on my new RS.

I highly recommend going 1st to 3rd when cold.
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Old 09-29-2017, 09:57 PM
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Originally Posted by CHADW View Post
I had the GMG exhaust on mine and loved it. It sounded like stock but more of it. Not too raspy. I guess some people have had issues with them but they have always been good to me and Iĺm not local. Even have their stuff on my new RS.

I highly recommend going 1st to 3rd when cold.
"Had"?
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Old 09-29-2017, 10:43 PM
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Originally Posted by EVONick View Post
"Had"?
Foolishly sold the car.
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Old 09-30-2017, 12:09 AM
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Originally Posted by CHADW View Post
Foolishly sold the car.
Ah I see. I thought perhaps something about the GMG bothered you over time, or that you found something better.
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Old 09-30-2017, 10:23 AM
  #24  
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Originally Posted by EVONick View Post
Ah I see. I thought perhaps something about the GMG bothered you over time, or that you found something better.
Congrats - suggest driving some miles before making mods - I modify cars exhaust etc the CGT has so much personality on it's own no mods are required

When they did the major it was a good time to install the best battery the battery location is a PIA - old batteries are the issue not the charger the glove box holder etc. at least in my case.

Battery tender tech has not changed - old or low tech batteries it's not if but when it will fail.

I use tenders on cars motorcycles bought Porsche OEM if you want a newer tender just buy the Porsche push it in the glove box socket and close the door on the wire. It's worked for 12 years it will work for another 12 years.

The area behind the front wheels - install screens to stop debris from kicking up on the body. Extra wires on a CGT in the engine bay or other areas is not necessary fact is CGT's are to be driven and when they sit they get grumpy creating more problems.
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Old 09-30-2017, 03:16 PM
  #25  
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Here are some thoughts.

Clutch is pretty easy. You can engage throttle as soon as car starts moving.

Always leave the rear bonnet slightly open and bubble the battery using the charging posts in the engine compartment as well as the glovebox. The glovebox thingy will eventually fail.

Never close doors before fastening seat belts.

Be gentle engaging 2nd when cold. It's normal to crunch a bit.

If storing in low ceiling or under a lift, ALWAYS hold down rear bonnet when opening. It jumps like it's spring loaded.

Make sure it has new tires.

Respect the car on cold tires.

Be wary of lift oversteer.

I would NEVER mess with the exhaust, it's perfect.

Good luck. Great car.
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Old 09-30-2017, 04:29 PM
  #26  
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Congrats Nick!
Great car, I think you'll really like it.

Mine came with a C-Tek charger and a plug in the right of the engine compartment near the positive jumper lug. I replaced the battery this spring but still find if it sits for more than a few weeks it needs a charge. The C-Tek charger works fine with the CGT. I've never even tried the glovebox charger.

2nd gear stiff when cold - Yep, a lot of different cars do this. My CGT, FGT and BB all do it. I go 1-3 for a few minutes, then find a nice easy 3-2 double clutch downshift will usually engage 2nd without crunching. Once driven in 2nd briefly it will then go 1-2 without crunching.

You'll find the brake light in the dash will light up if it hasn't been driven in a while. This is normal and is because the vacuum booster needs to build vacuum. Just wait a few seconds until it goes off before moving.

Enjoy your new CGT, it looks great!
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Old 09-30-2017, 04:39 PM
  #27  
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Originally Posted by nuvolari612 View Post
Congrats - suggest driving some miles before making mods - I modify cars exhaust etc the CGT has so much personality on it's own no mods are required

When they did the major it was a good time to install the best battery the battery location is a PIA - old batteries are the issue not the charger the glove box holder etc. at least in my case.

Battery tender tech has not changed - old or low tech batteries it's not if but when it will fail.

I use tenders on cars motorcycles bought Porsche OEM if you want a newer tender just buy the Porsche push it in the glove box socket and close the door on the wire. It's worked for 12 years it will work for another 12 years.

The area behind the front wheels - install screens to stop debris from kicking up on the body. Extra wires on a CGT in the engine bay or other areas is not necessary fact is CGT's are to be driven and when they sit they get grumpy creating more problems.
1. Exhaust. I've put enough miles on it cruising, revving, day, night, going thru tunnels etc that I feel I have a good handle on the way it sounds. It's not going to be driven frequently, and only for a real pleasure drive, so I want every moment to be a sensory experience. I enjoy the stock exhaust at full revs, but wish it could be "more" without turning obnoxious. Hence GMG. It's not cast in stone yet.

2. Battery replacement. We discussed it during the major, it's not a top of the line battery, but it had recently been replaced for sale purposes, and we saw no reason to change it just to get an Optima.

3. Charger. Ordered a Battery Tender Junior with lighter adapter, we'll see how that works before move to a different solution.


Originally Posted by Jamie140 View Post
Here are some thoughts.

Clutch is pretty easy. You can engage throttle as soon as car starts moving.

Always leave the rear bonnet slightly open and bubble the battery using the charging posts in the engine compartment as well as the glovebox. The glovebox thingy will eventually fail.

Never close doors before fastening seat belts.

Be gentle engaging 2nd when cold. It's normal to crunch a bit.

If storing in low ceiling or under a lift, ALWAYS hold down rear bonnet when opening. It jumps like it's spring loaded.

Make sure it has new tires.

Respect the car on cold tires.

Be wary of lift oversteer.

I would NEVER mess with the exhaust, it's perfect.

Good luck. Great car.
Thanks.
"bubble the battery"?

I've not had that happen with the rear lid, mine just pops unlocked and stays flat, as if it didn't even have a strut.

Why not close doors before seat belt?
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Old 10-01-2017, 02:17 PM
  #28  
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Originally Posted by EVONick View Post
1. Exhaust. I've put enough miles on it cruising, revving, day, night, going thru tunnels etc that I feel I have a good handle on the way it sounds. It's not going to be driven frequently, and only for a real pleasure drive, so I want every moment to be a sensory experience. I enjoy the stock exhaust at full revs, but wish it could be "more" without turning obnoxious. Hence GMG. It's not cast in stone yet.

2. Battery replacement. We discussed it during the major, it's not a top of the line battery, but it had recently been replaced for sale purposes, and we saw no reason to change it just to get an Optima.

3. Charger. Ordered a Battery Tender Junior with lighter adapter, we'll see how that works before move to a different solution.


Thanks.
"bubble the battery"?


I've not had that happen with the rear lid, mine just pops unlocked and stays flat, as if it didn't even have a strut.

Why not close doors before seat belt?
bubble = charging

There's a ship load of expensive carbon your can scratch if you close the door on a wayward hard piece of seat belt.
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Old 10-02-2017, 11:49 PM
  #29  
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Release the parking brake with you foot on the pedal before you close the door
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Old 10-03-2017, 02:32 AM
  #30  
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If you wear a watch on your left wrist, be careful when releasing the hand brake.... I learned this lesson the hard way.
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