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996 Cup Clutch Recommendation

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Old 05-31-2015 | 12:04 AM
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TOXNER
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Default 996 Cup Clutch Recommendation

Our "rescue" 996 Cup needs a new clutch disc, pressure plate, and release bearing. Does anyone have recommendations about replacement parts? OEM or aftermarket? Thanks,

Tom
Old 05-31-2015 | 12:20 PM
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I'm not sure this is a recommendation, but I just did this work on my 6Cup and went OEM.
Old 05-31-2015 | 12:53 PM
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I have the 5.5 Tilton in mine...It is awesome once you are on track and moving...Revs are instantaneous and super responsive...Shifts like a dream. You will hate it in the paddock and when moving the car around.
Old 05-31-2015 | 01:03 PM
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The best option is the Tilton. You will see the most out of the car with the 5.5 package.
Old 05-31-2015 | 08:29 PM
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The benefit of the 5.5 Tilton is as mentioned above, instantaneous hookup. The Motorsports 4-puck setup is pretty darn close in performance and will self destruct in the event of a significant overrev. The Tilton won't blow until your motor's scrambled, the 4-puck OEM around 9k IIRC and could save your motor....
Old 05-31-2015 | 09:51 PM
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Originally Posted by jrgordonsenior
The benefit of the 5.5 Tilton is as mentioned above, instantaneous hookup. The Motorsports 4-puck setup is pretty darn close in performance and will self destruct in the event of a significant overrev. The Tilton won't blow until your motor's scrambled, the 4-puck OEM around 9k IIRC and could save your motor....
I would not worry to much about the motor in a 6 cup they are just about indestructible. I have seen revs to 9900+ with little issue. But don't try it. LOL We use the Sachs pressure plate with the Kenndy six puck disc. Very durable and dirt cheap. $130 IIRC. It is easy to move around the paddock.
Old 06-01-2015 | 09:02 PM
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I have 5.5 triple plate on my car also... Here's another point, if you are extremely good at heel-toe then I would so go for it. If not, I would he hesitant. Rev's drop VERY quickly from high rpm, and you'll be beating the heck out of your power train. Basically about 1/4" pedal travel from full dis-engagement to engagement. There is ZERO slip at speed. I have wheel speed monitors and can see instantaneous rear wheel speed drops on less than idea downshifts. You also need an adjustable pedal stop (do not know cup's have those) or you can push throw-bearing completely through clutch and destroy it (or worst damage motor/flywheel).



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