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Up/Backdating the 01 Cup Air intake

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Old 12-09-2012, 10:23 AM
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HiWind
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Default Up/Backdating the 01 Cup Air intake

... in the interest of sharing my experience and getting criticism/input for those (many) of you who have boldly walked this road before ....
All comments are most appreciated ... but I can't promise to follow them
I have found in the last year that the collective wisdom of the RL crowd has both saved me money, time and energy,
as well as right-sized some fanciful notions that some 'manufacturers' have claimed 'wil definitely work'.

So in an effort to do simple, logical mod's to the new2me cup that will reduce wear or lap times ...
I started with the obvious hot air problem. It's not rocket science ... just looking at the newer cars shows there's reason
to alter/improve the air flow to the engine. It maybe good for 5-10 hp ...
a bit more as part of a ram-air scoop/airbox/tune effort.

What was most interesting to me was that the 4.0 and latest 997 cups went back to the airbox approach origianlly found on the 996 road car.
This was rather than the increasingly more elaborate CF/styled intake which followed the late 996 'surrounded' airfilter approach.
SLow explains as much here ... wise words

To see where I started ... see my avatar <<< ie open filter (ala Fabspeed :-o ) ie sounds good but not ... ideal
(search Mike Kelly and Fabspeed for that one)

So instead of going for this ...


or this ...


or this ...


I went 'back' to this ...


It meant I needed to get the air down from the decklid to the air-intake, so I had this built ... ($200)

and using a little hard foam spacer to lift the airbox a bit as the plenum on the cup is slightly higher than the one on the 996RS.
I thus also had to cut a small hole in the left side of the decklid to allow for the slightly lifted box.
A nice piece of sili pipe bridged the gap to the throttle body.

Can I feel the difference? Not really ie who can feel 10 on 350 hp? Is it working? Well I expect it must.
(Are my top speeds/lap times different? hmmm)
Especially once I add a ram air scoop (anyone?) to the top of the decklid ...
but is there another way to tell? Air temp sensor placed where the 996 MAF would go.
Any other ideas? Comments?

ps - if you notice there's alot of space there its because I also removed the Power Steering pump
and bought one of Mark Mathis's RSR electric PS pump spares ...but more on that later.

And yes I know there's 2 secs in more seat time/better data analysis - they're on the go too!

Last edited by HiWind; 12-09-2012 at 10:51 AM.
Old 12-09-2012, 11:11 AM
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coryf
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Looks good. Nicely done. It has to be an improvement over the early set up.
Old 12-09-2012, 01:40 PM
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32krazy!
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i have a 997 left side snorkel i can sell if you want to double the amount of air going in. you will need to modify the airbox but it has been done on the 996 turbo cars. i went vivd dual c/f snorkel so i dont need it anymore
Old 12-10-2012, 11:35 AM
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HiWind
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thanks Cory
32K - thanks; thought about it - seems a major pre-occup with the TT crew - but concerned the extra hole
would release rather than add to the pressure.

Now just to find the scoops
Old 12-11-2012, 10:20 AM
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cwhota
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Hi HiWind, Very nice, i'm at the exact same place comming from a different place. I have a GT3 996 and i installed a Cup Decklid, now i need to do something.

Do you have any info on the process you took to create that adapter, what it is made of etc, Would you be intrested on making more of those peice, did you have a moled made

i know at least 2 other guy that would be intrested also, Cup decklid on GT3 are popular.

At 200 i take one for sure

Thanks in advance

ALSO conversion to electric power stering !!!! more about that ;o)
Old 12-11-2012, 12:17 PM
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Hey Marc - I'll pm you tomorrow on the air adapter. Issue is the shipping but shd be workable as a friend is going to NYC in Feb and she can mail them there.

e power steering DIY soon
Old 12-11-2012, 12:38 PM
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Looking good Matt! Love the form follows function adapter.
Told you that there's a market for it.
Old 12-11-2012, 11:30 PM
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Brilliant.
Old 12-12-2012, 07:34 AM
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thanks John - you know the market if anyone does (<<- does that really look like thumbsup? I see gangrenous uncle Barney, drunk again )

Mark - I do have a mold for the 'under-scoop' and its likely good for 5-6 more of those units.
Get me the orders/commitments and addresses I'll confirm the cost inc shipping ie $230-250 range I think.
Will have to do it over the quiet time so rather let me know soonest as come Jan I have an engine to drop and all the associated 'fun'.
That also includes fitting the 997/cup style double scoop to top of decklid - happy to trade one of my under-scoops for one of those 'overs.'

Hope that works for you and the other 'early cup decklidders'

Matt
(ps - email me via my UCP profile pls)
Old 12-12-2012, 10:08 AM
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cwhota
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How much higher the airbox sits in the CUP compared with the original location in a GT3
If i understood correctly, your airbox is sitting higher, so i can assume a gap between the airbox and the under scoop in a original GT3 , Right ??? if is 1 cm or less, i think it could be ok, more then that, it would be harder to bridge the gap with rubber foam or something like that. And if there is a gap, well, it goes agains the idea...
Old 12-12-2012, 12:02 PM
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FFaust
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Just use a piece of self-adhesive weather strip from the hardware store.
Old 12-12-2012, 01:11 PM
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Yes as Franc says Mark ... weather strip or rubber from a fridge/door seal.

It's a small gap which the foam on the orig box dealt with. The issue was that the intake toward the plenum in the cup was 2cm higher, so to keep the flow straight and to enable the use of the straight stock pipe from box to throttle body, I raised the box, which you won't have to do. The stock foam on the airbox is completely compressed on my install which I imagine won't happen on yours ... But I'll measure tomorrow and confirm.
Old 12-12-2012, 05:48 PM
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I'd like to weigh in here since I was quoted for the other thread...

My problem in that thread, to me, was pretty obvious. You're exposing the airfilter to the hot air in the engine bay, and anyone who has owned a Twin Turbo knows that those turbo chargers crank the heat up to an amazing level. Some of these vendors (and I'm not calling anyone of them in specific out here) want to sell a product, but don't have a single ounce of evidence to prove their worth. It would seem that their ultimate goal is to extract money from your wallet, and nothing else. And in the Porsche Turbo Market there is an inordinate amount of this, due in no small part to the amount of mods those cars can take to gain stupid (and mostly useless) power.

I was dead serious when I offered to test and provide those results. At the time I had five different vendors/tuners/shops working closely with me in developing my 996TT project car and all of them new that if they sent me a turd, I'd call it one publically. None of them were concerned because they stood behind their parts and their parts worked as marketed.

Matt, what you have looks like you're moving in the right direction. The key is isolating the intake air charge from the heat in the engine bay as much as possible. The GT3 doesn't suffer as badly as the Turbo, but that motor being stuffed in the **** still makes it a challenge.

For those of you state-side, you can get a number of different sealing materials from McMaster-Carr. I've bought a LOT of fabrication materials from them. You can also buy KYDEX and use a heat gun to form and make your own airbox as Matt has done. Once I turn my attention fully to the GT3 I hope to showcase a little of what I've been able to learn in building the Datsun V8Zcar project.
Mike
Old 12-12-2012, 11:16 PM
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Funny you should mention McMaster-Carr and state-side in the same sentence Mike.

I placed an order with them, my first one, last Friday night. Monday I received an e-mail telling me that just don't ship to Canada
Old 12-12-2012, 11:22 PM
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Wow, just Googled Kydex: Amazing what you can do when you have the right material.

Marc, give it a shot.


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