hughp3

Help please.
Car is used only for DE events at the moment, maybe PCA down the road when/if I get a bit faster. I have a 5.5 inch Tilton in it right now. I hate it. Starts are bad but what I really don't like is the shock on the transmission. I lost 3rd gear recently, you guys know how that hurts. While maybe not my fault (previous owner was hard on many trans I was told, he was fast they also say). I see no way to shift that is not a shock on the trans. Is there any other clutch system that will work? Stuch Cup replacement any better? 996 Street RS or maybe 997 RS will fit? I was told the Titlon carbon is really good but it is really expensive. Maybe it is worth it...... Hate this thing crashing my expensive Gaurd gears, makes me cringe..

Thanks

jdistefa

Hugh,

See if Mark has any used Tilton CF clutches left....

https://rennlist.com/forums/porsche-...ce-wheels.html

claykos

Are you experiencing the "shock" on upshifts or downs? If on upshifts I have a suspicion you are not shifting quickly enough and when you release the clutch it has to pull the engine revs up abruptly. If on downshifts, the rev matches are not right.

Do not mean to be rude, but it is your technique not the clutch that is making the shifts "shocking." I agree that the tilton 5.5 is a bitch to pull out of the pits with, but if shifted properly you should not be shocking the drivetrain. Relying on slipping the clutch (either shifting up or down) to make the shift smooths is not the right way to do it.

KaiB

With Clay on this.

Please keep in mind the fact that these race clutches, lightweight and small diameter, have a much smaller moment of inertia - during shifts, the engine revs will fall much more quickly. Up means quicker overall and quicker on the throttle than you're used to and down means that the blip must be more exactly timed and more in sync with the engagement of the clutch.

hughp3

Hey guys - I don't disagree my technique could always be better but it's not bad either. The only way not to shock the trans is speed shifting all of the time, even during cool down. If that's what it takes then ok I need to get used to it. Is there any less aggressive system or a system with some ability to slip the clutch at least in the pits? Autometrics says the carbon is best of both worlds , anyone share that opinion? As always thanks for the feedback.

claykos

Carbon is the best. And allows some slippage. Just very expensive and needs to be set up properly. The 7.25 2-disk tilton is a lot milder than the 5.5 3 plate.

hughp3

Thanks Clay. Thats the feedback i hoped for. My 5.5 is freshly rebuilt with 1 DE. I can sell to help with the carbon. Talking with Cory in the morning to make darn sure the best of both race performance and ease of use can exist together. I have trouble trying to reconcile why my cup requires a clutch so extreme when a 997.2rs with much more power (and I think same flywheel weight ) can be effective and livable.

claykos

You don't need the clamping force of the tilton 5.5. Your car can run perfectly fine with a regular street GT3 clutch. It is just a performance enhancer due to less rotating mass. Also, at least the older 996 gt3 pressure plates liked to come apart if you missed a shift and buzzed it to 9 grand. Not sure on the new stuff.

Just a matter of max track performance versus "streetability."

PedroNole

Ditto

nmercier853

Forget the expensive Tilton Carbon and get the Sachs clutch. Mine has 120hrs on it and I going to replace it only b/c it is probley the only thing I have not replaced on my car since owning it. I have more buddies who have ruined clutches moving the car around in the pits then on the track using those Tiltons. Also the stock clutch gives you some security b/c when you do miss that shift it will exploded instead of your valve train.

J richard

I've been warned off the early stock clutch due to the "when not if" probability of the clutch failing and the tabs sawing the bellhousing in two... Recommendations have been to go with the tilton.

A cup sucks to drive around in the pits, nature of the beast...on a cold morning I rushed the warmup to get to grid and the bucking ripped first gear off the mainshaft...lesson learned...

ZSA Motorsport

someone gave me a tip a few years ago which i employ with m ex996 cup and definately with the 997s. use 1st to get the car moving forward and then just clutch and grab 2nd early. less bucking and jerking and drama.
definately the case in the 997. obviously in the 996, must clutch. in 997, i still clutch for that 1->2 shift at minimal mphs.

smsarchitects

"Also the stock clutch gives you some security b/c when you do miss that shift it will exploded instead of your valve train."

+1

Last year I missed a shift, broke the VERY OLD stock clutch and did NOT trash the gearbox and then installed another stock cup clutch.

J richard

Scott, so no real issue? I've got basically a new early stock clutch but this has me concerned... I hate to dump a perfectly fine clutch and $3k...did you bust the disk or the cover? It's the tabs on the cover that are the concern. I've been going back and forth on this, would have run it this last weekend at chuckwalla if I had a better comfort level...

smsarchitects

Well, if you are smart (unlike me) you would pull off as soon as the clutch felt a bit notchy. I also noticed it was hard to grab the correct gear when the car was very loaded through a turn.

I, however, finished the race and grenaded the entire assembly and only stopped when the clutch pedal no longer worked.....in retrospect, super super stupid and $$$. I will NEVER make that mistake again. That clutch did have 80 hours on it according to the PO.

All in all, there was very minor scraping to the inside of the bell-housing so I was VERY lucky.

FWIW, I have twice raced a 2003 GT3RS (ex-LeMans car) with a Tilton clutch and it also seemed to me that the gearbox was taking a beating (thud) every time I up-shifted. The owner/co-driver assured me that was "normal" for a "tiny copper clutch." It sure did grab though!

+1 on shifting to second asap when driving in the paddock