Winterizing 996 Cup
10-26-2009, 11:54 AM
#1
Winterizing 996 Cup
Gang,
I may leave my car in the trailer for the winter. What do I need to do to assure it isnt damaged by the cold here in the Northeast? Anything special with the antifreeze, etc?
This may be a stupid question, but the one not asked is the dumbest!
JL
I may leave my car in the trailer for the winter. What do I need to do to assure it isnt damaged by the cold here in the Northeast? Anything special with the antifreeze, etc?
This may be a stupid question, but the one not asked is the dumbest!
JL
10-26-2009, 12:48 PM
#2
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Fresh oil/filter change
Completely fill the fuel tank (minimize trapped air), preferably with non ethanol fuel (VP fuel) if possible
Battery on maintainer (or remove and store inside)
Overinflate tires (50psi) and/or tire cradles/flat stoppers
I don't know what the freeze point is for the factory fill antifreeze, it's simple enough to check a sample. With a road going 'wet' Porsche, storage in an enclosed trailer would not be an issue.
When you go to start it in the spring, kill the fuel pump or ignition, crank the starter until full oil pressure is established, wait 15-30 seconds, repeat again, then enable the fuel pump or ignition (depending what fuse/kill method you used) and start car normally.
(I wouldn't start the car unless you could drive it....at least 15 minutes of driving....simply starting it and shutting it off invites moisture build up.)
Completely fill the fuel tank (minimize trapped air), preferably with non ethanol fuel (VP fuel) if possible
Battery on maintainer (or remove and store inside)
Overinflate tires (50psi) and/or tire cradles/flat stoppers
I don't know what the freeze point is for the factory fill antifreeze, it's simple enough to check a sample. With a road going 'wet' Porsche, storage in an enclosed trailer would not be an issue.
When you go to start it in the spring, kill the fuel pump or ignition, crank the starter until full oil pressure is established, wait 15-30 seconds, repeat again, then enable the fuel pump or ignition (depending what fuse/kill method you used) and start car normally.
(I wouldn't start the car unless you could drive it....at least 15 minutes of driving....simply starting it and shutting it off invites moisture build up.)
10-26-2009, 04:31 PM
#4
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I'd add some fuel conditioner as they do with boats.
Change the wheels/slicks as they wont' be worth a hoot after winter temps or just ues a burnt out set.
Absolutely put in new antifreeze. Don't trust what anyone says is in there, I've seen what freezing can do to a cup with just water....
Change the wheels/slicks as they wont' be worth a hoot after winter temps or just ues a burnt out set.
Absolutely put in new antifreeze. Don't trust what anyone says is in there, I've seen what freezing can do to a cup with just water....
10-26-2009, 10:02 PM
#5
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We have found a great place to store trailer and car for the winter... Tampa fl.. in doors for about $80 per month and then you get to come down and visit it Jan at PBOC Winterfest, 48 Hour at Sebring in February, another PBOC race in March at Birmingham and if schedules are right you can do another Sebring with CHIN and then head north stopping at Road Atlanta for the Club Race in April.. this will be our 5th year... and you don't have to worry about anti-freeze..leaving next week for the trip south with a weekend stop at VIR 
10-26-2009, 10:44 PM
#6
We have found a great place to store trailer and car for the winter... Tampa fl.. in doors for about $80 per month and then you get to come down and visit it Jan at PBOC Winterfest, 48 Hour at Sebring in February, another PBOC race in March at Birmingham and if schedules are right you can do another Sebring with CHIN and then head north stopping at Road Atlanta for the Club Race in April.. this will be our 5th year... and you don't have to worry about anti-freeze..leaving next week for the trip south with a weekend stop at VIR
I think I'm gonna try hard to find someone in my town with a garage!
JL
10-27-2009, 12:01 AM
#7
We have found a great place to store trailer and car for the winter... Tampa fl.. in doors for about $80 per month and then you get to come down and visit it Jan at PBOC Winterfest, 48 Hour at Sebring in February, another PBOC race in March at Birmingham and if schedules are right you can do another Sebring with CHIN and then head north stopping at Road Atlanta for the Club Race in April.. this will be our 5th year... and you don't have to worry about anti-freeze..leaving next week for the trip south with a weekend stop at VIR
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10-27-2009, 01:36 AM
#8
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if your trailor hasnt the proper ventalation it will cause moisture to build up and attack any metal surfaces prone to rust....... the trailor temperature is affected by the cold air and combination of warm sun heating the panels.
your wheel studs will be the first sign of rust.
i wouldnt reccommend using a trailor as storage.
your wheel studs will be the first sign of rust.
i wouldnt reccommend using a trailor as storage.
10-28-2009, 02:03 AM
#9
Racer
I agree, the last place you would want to store a cup car is in a trailer, it will end up costing your more to fix issues than to pay for storage. Find a storage unit, friends garage, maybe even ask your service provider if they will store it for you (peanuts compared to repairs). Let it go to sleep with relatively fresh fluids, full tank of racegas and old tires, trickle your battery. Change all fluids and filters before your first use and have a full check done (nut&bolt, susp. check, hoses, etc.). Go and have fun, repeat. (Hopefully without spending alot of money)
Bernie
Bernie
