996 OR 997???
08-06-2008, 10:48 AM
#31
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My '08 997 clutch was getting thin after only about three races so we changed it. If you use a pit cart to move the car around it will last a lot longer, and NEVER use the clutch to put the car on a trailer.
The 996 clutch would last a long time until you missed a shift and then it would break.
I hope my '08 tranny will last a long time but it sure grinds a lot in downshifts and even in upshifts if you forget to shift it deliberately hard, it's just the opposite of the 915 tranny.
The 996 clutch would last a long time until you missed a shift and then it would break.
I hope my '08 tranny will last a long time but it sure grinds a lot in downshifts and even in upshifts if you forget to shift it deliberately hard, it's just the opposite of the 915 tranny.
08-06-2008, 12:44 PM
#33
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The life of a cup motor life has subject to lots of missinformation from it's introduction. Subject to guilt by association, many folks just lumped them in with the higher horsepower R's, RS's, and RSR motors. I know of 2 later cup motors that went 200 hours (1 still running), and several currently running close to 130 hours. The only catastrophic failures I've ever heard of in my 3 years of ownership have been due to driver error, ie: missed downshifts. Change the oil after every weekend, and keep the revs off the limiter and they'll run a long time.
As for trannys, eventually they will wear out but again, the numbers bantered around are not reality based. Clutches and pressure plates will go sooner than the other parts especially if you use your clutch getting in/out of the trailer and around the garage/paddock. Mine made it about 60 hours before imploding....
The real expense of cup ownership is in the tires. Michelin's work best by far but they'ye become more and more expensive, about $2k for a set of blues these days.
Now the Spec Boxster....
As for trannys, eventually they will wear out but again, the numbers bantered around are not reality based. Clutches and pressure plates will go sooner than the other parts especially if you use your clutch getting in/out of the trailer and around the garage/paddock. Mine made it about 60 hours before imploding....
The real expense of cup ownership is in the tires. Michelin's work best by far but they'ye become more and more expensive, about $2k for a set of blues these days.
Now the Spec Boxster....
08-06-2008, 04:53 PM
#34
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The motors, whether rebuilt by Porsche or a privately have always seem equal to me until I raced at Las Vegas this past May with PCA. There was a 02' Cup there sold by FL several years ago that was noticably faster than any 6 or 7 cup I've ever raced against. It sounded awesome and we all noticed it. The owner said it was stock, rebuilt by FL after their last race with the car back in 03' or 04'. Regardless I beat him, but not down the straights....
08-06-2008, 05:05 PM
#35
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Which is why my wrench talked me out of a Tilton setup when I blew mine last year. It's cheap insurance for your motor as the OEM presure plate/clutch will explode around 9000+- whereas the Tilton or RSR's will hold together over 10k and that would cost you a motor. Additionally the factory parts (4tab) are less than half of the Titon's costs....
Here's my OEM PP/Clutch after it blew. The metal in the housing is what was left of my PP. The disc and the housing were OK, it just looks chipped....
Here's my OEM PP/Clutch after it blew. The metal in the housing is what was left of my PP. The disc and the housing were OK, it just looks chipped....
08-06-2008, 06:10 PM
#36
Which is why my wrench talked me out of a Tilton setup when I blew mine last year. It's cheap insurance for your motor as the OEM presure plate/clutch will explode around 9000+- whereas the Tilton or RSR's will hold together over 10k and that would cost you a motor. Additionally the factory parts (4tab) are less than half of the Titon's costs....
Here's my OEM PP/Clutch after it blew. The metal in the housing is what was left of my PP. The disc and the housing were OK, it just looks chipped....
Here's my OEM PP/Clutch after it blew. The metal in the housing is what was left of my PP. The disc and the housing were OK, it just looks chipped....
08-06-2008, 09:41 PM
#37
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My '08 997 clutch was getting thin after only about three races so we changed it. If you use a pit cart to move the car around it will last a lot longer, and NEVER use the clutch to put the car on a trailer.
The 996 clutch would last a long time until you missed a shift and then it would break.
I hope my '08 tranny will last a long time but it sure grinds a lot in downshifts and even in upshifts if you forget to shift it deliberately hard, it's just the opposite of the 915 tranny.
The 996 clutch would last a long time until you missed a shift and then it would break.
I hope my '08 tranny will last a long time but it sure grinds a lot in downshifts and even in upshifts if you forget to shift it deliberately hard, it's just the opposite of the 915 tranny.
JCM
08-06-2008, 11:45 PM
#38
Burning Brakes
Which is why my wrench talked me out of a Tilton setup when I blew mine last year. It's cheap insurance for your motor as the OEM presure plate/clutch will explode around 9000+- whereas the Tilton or RSR's will hold together over 10k and that would cost you a motor. Additionally the factory parts (4tab) are less than half of the Titon's costs....
Here's my OEM PP/Clutch after it blew. The metal in the housing is what was left of my PP. The disc and the housing were OK, it just looks chipped....
Here's my OEM PP/Clutch after it blew. The metal in the housing is what was left of my PP. The disc and the housing were OK, it just looks chipped....
The tilton set up is the nuts. My brother reved our 04 car to 9714 on the first time at the track and blew the clutch. We put the tilton in at the track ( 4 hrs pull motor and trans and put back in) and have never had any problems at all. We are pretty easy on the car though shifting at 7-7500 most of the time and have had zero problems. Our car has probably 80-100 hrs on it and not a hint of any issues and we have done nothing except pads, tires and rotors to it.
Chris
08-13-2008, 12:34 AM
#39
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Well, Thank you everyone for their input.
It looks like I have a deal finalized on a 997 Cup pending an ECU reading and leakdown results.
Now I hope I can drive it!!!!
It looks like I have a deal finalized on a 997 Cup pending an ECU reading and leakdown results.
Now I hope I can drive it!!!!
08-13-2008, 01:20 AM
#40
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If you happen to get a cylinder or 2 that have higher leakdown numbers listen to hear if it's coming out the tail pipes. That means it just some carbon or debris stuck in the valve seats. Run it awhile and test that or those cylinders again. You could also tap on the valve stems. I've seen this on multiple cup motors....
08-13-2008, 01:36 AM
#41
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If you happen to get a cylinder or 2 that have higher leakdown numbers listen to hear if it's coming out the tail pipes. That means it just some carbon or debris stuck in the valve seats. Run it awhile and test that or those cylinders again. You could also tap on the valve stems. I've seen this on multiple cup motors....
08-25-2008, 10:04 PM
#43
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Matt,How about 2 for the price of 1 ????http://www.racecarmagazine.com/ForSa...LENGE-FOR-SALE If interested give me a call. Ive been talking to the owner for a while and Ive got a lot more info on the cars. I also worked a really great deal just cant do it on my own.
Tim
410-599-0079
09-02-2008, 12:49 AM
#44
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I had a long discussion with Jeff Stone of Kellymoss about the cars this weekend and he recommended the 997 cup over the 996 for several reasons. First and foremost, he discussed how the 997 really is a race car, not a street car converted to a race car (explained all the differences). He spoke about the advantages of the trans and how the cost of running the two are very close. The biggest thing that led me to believe a 997 is a better buy at this point in time is the fact that porsche has stopped making tubs for the 996. So in the event that you have a severe accident, it seems like the 996 cup would be a writeoff. That in itself makes me feel like buying a 997 cup might be a better bet if you are going to be racing the car for several seasons. But I suppose like some others have said before, its best to buy the newest car you can afford!
