Throttle cable woes
08-23-2018, 08:48 AM
#1
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
Throttle cable woes
997.1 Cup.......I've broken 3 throttle cables in the last 8 events/races.
Two have broken at the blipper rollers and one at the junction to the back cable.
I've replaced the blipper assembly figuring that might be a little worn as it was original.
I know this is a wear part, but this is a little ridiculous.
Right now I set up the "full throttle" at 95% figuring it may take some of the strain off the cable. The only other counsel I've gotten is that I should set the blip % to around 25% versus the 36% I've got it set now.
Has anybody got any other suggestions to get some more life out of these things.
Two have broken at the blipper rollers and one at the junction to the back cable.
I've replaced the blipper assembly figuring that might be a little worn as it was original.
I know this is a wear part, but this is a little ridiculous.
Right now I set up the "full throttle" at 95% figuring it may take some of the strain off the cable. The only other counsel I've gotten is that I should set the blip % to around 25% versus the 36% I've got it set now.
Has anybody got any other suggestions to get some more life out of these things.
08-23-2018, 10:04 AM
#2
Got frustrated with same problems. Changed to Manthey blipper, much less stress on cables. Also better when you want to manually blip in addition. So far so good. I understand arguments for Porsche blipper design but the practical /durability issues make the Manthey type better IMO.
Why would you race at 95% unless someone looking at throttle body says that it is actually fully open at 95% reading.
Why would you race at 95% unless someone looking at throttle body says that it is actually fully open at 95% reading.
08-23-2018, 11:36 AM
#4
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Mine broke at the rollers as well this year. It was a PNMA cable (it was Joe's car, mentioned above 
), and the replacement PMNA cable has a beefier looking housing, not sure if the actual cable inside is any different. My plan is to be diligent keeping the blipper rollers clean and see how many hours I get out of it.
I would be very hesitant to lower the blip below 35%. In my limited experience, these cars like a big blip on a downshift. Porsche says 35%-42% IIRC and I have heard others on here say they just max it out. Saving some strain to the cable at the potential expense of the trans seems expensive in the long run. Others with more experience can weigh in, but that's my take.
Certainly curious to hear others' opinions on this.
), and the replacement PMNA cable has a beefier looking housing, not sure if the actual cable inside is any different. My plan is to be diligent keeping the blipper rollers clean and see how many hours I get out of it.I would be very hesitant to lower the blip below 35%. In my limited experience, these cars like a big blip on a downshift. Porsche says 35%-42% IIRC and I have heard others on here say they just max it out. Saving some strain to the cable at the potential expense of the trans seems expensive in the long run. Others with more experience can weigh in, but that's my take.
Certainly curious to hear others' opinions on this.
08-23-2018, 12:21 PM
#5
Rennlist Member
I ran the manthey pushrod and that was a far more serviceable design vs. the OEM pulley-extravaganza. Loved its simplicity, except when it blips going into neutral and reverse... bystanders think you're a showoff 
Mine was set to blip at least 40% closer to 50% wdka--with lower settings I would suffer (small) rear lockups.
That said your optimal setting depends on how you downshift. If you shift clean & quick (i.e. a punch-like action) you'll need the high side side of the range. If you meander with the shifter and hold it longer, you can get away with less, as that'll have the effect of opening the throttle for longer... now what that does to one's transmission... that's topic for another thread...
Another caveat: you'll also need to dial up the blipper if you tend to run more brake bias to the rear....
Mine was set to blip at least 40% closer to 50% wdka--with lower settings I would suffer (small) rear lockups.
That said your optimal setting depends on how you downshift. If you shift clean & quick (i.e. a punch-like action) you'll need the high side side of the range. If you meander with the shifter and hold it longer, you can get away with less, as that'll have the effect of opening the throttle for longer... now what that does to one's transmission... that's topic for another thread...
Another caveat: you'll also need to dial up the blipper if you tend to run more brake bias to the rear....
08-24-2018, 12:29 PM
#6
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
Thanks guys -
I do like the higher blip just didn't know if anybody had the same problems (obviously the answer is yes). And that's not the way to solve it.
I'll look into the Manthey part and see if that can solve the problem. All my replacements to date have been PMNA parts so it's got to be something in how we're setting it up or how I'm managing it that's causing this kind of breakage. I'm just tired of it blowing a weekend of racing.
I do like the higher blip just didn't know if anybody had the same problems (obviously the answer is yes). And that's not the way to solve it.
I'll look into the Manthey part and see if that can solve the problem. All my replacements to date have been PMNA parts so it's got to be something in how we're setting it up or how I'm managing it that's causing this kind of breakage. I'm just tired of it blowing a weekend of racing.
08-24-2018, 01:11 PM
#7
Drifting
Kevin, Surprised the cable broke again, the replacement only had a few hours on it and was a Porsche Motrosports part. Unbelievable....... Hope you're enjoying the car, I do miss the engagement with a sequential box.
Mine broke at the rollers as well this year. It was a PNMA cable (it was Joe's car, mentioned above ), and the replacement PMNA cable has a beefier looking housing, not sure if the actual cable inside is any different. My plan is to be diligent keeping the blipper rollers clean and see how many hours I get out of it.
I would be very hesitant to lower the blip below 35%. In my limited experience, these cars like a big blip on a downshift. Porsche says 35%-42% IIRC and I have heard others on here say they just max it out. Saving some strain to the cable at the potential expense of the trans seems expensive in the long run. Others with more experience can weigh in, but that's my take.
Certainly curious to hear others' opinions on this.
), and the replacement PMNA cable has a beefier looking housing, not sure if the actual cable inside is any different. My plan is to be diligent keeping the blipper rollers clean and see how many hours I get out of it.I would be very hesitant to lower the blip below 35%. In my limited experience, these cars like a big blip on a downshift. Porsche says 35%-42% IIRC and I have heard others on here say they just max it out. Saving some strain to the cable at the potential expense of the trans seems expensive in the long run. Others with more experience can weigh in, but that's my take.
Certainly curious to hear others' opinions on this.
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08-24-2018, 09:07 PM
#8
Rennlist Member
Any possibility that your throttle cable isn't being routed properly thru the oem blipper? This is not supposed to be a consumable part and when properly installed the throttle cables lasted ya entire seasons back in the day.
That, and i would be looking for unusual sharp edges that's causing your cable to fray...
That, and i would be looking for unusual sharp edges that's causing your cable to fray...
08-26-2018, 08:55 AM
#9
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
We checked the routing and that's per spec........works perfectly (when it's not broken). I even replaced the blipper assembly as the old part was original and we thought that there was some play in the rollers. Right now I can't tell if it's jumping the rollers and then getting pinched at the next shift or if it's just breaking at that point within the clipper assembly.
Either way it's certainly not lasting as long as it should and it's something with the set up. We're not doing something right.
I've lost them in the past but it's been either at the junction where it connects to the rear assembly or at the pedal and that's been just wear.
Either way it's certainly not lasting as long as it should and it's something with the set up. We're not doing something right.
I've lost them in the past but it's been either at the junction where it connects to the rear assembly or at the pedal and that's been just wear.