2008 Cayman 978.1 purchase...?
#1
2008 Cayman 978.1 purchase...?
First time I've ever considered owning a Porsche, I test drove a pretty nice Cayman last night, 2008, 64800 miles currently on the ODO. It has full service history, the only issue, the TPMS light comes on every so often, but the tires have no issues, they are brand new.
Also had a new clutch installed about 3500 miles ago as well, car drove great, sounds great. No accidents, clean KBB.
This is a base 5spd with upgraded Brembos and some nice wheels, nothing else has been changed from what I can tell.
Assuming this car makes it through PPI (Inspection) without issue, is there anything that should keep me from picking this car up for $22,500 (USD)? That's the price we've settled on if it makes it through PPI.
For note, this is a second car, I don't plan on tracking it nor beating on it, I'm betting I'll be putting on less then 4k a year mileage wise.
Also had a new clutch installed about 3500 miles ago as well, car drove great, sounds great. No accidents, clean KBB.
This is a base 5spd with upgraded Brembos and some nice wheels, nothing else has been changed from what I can tell.
Assuming this car makes it through PPI (Inspection) without issue, is there anything that should keep me from picking this car up for $22,500 (USD)? That's the price we've settled on if it makes it through PPI.
For note, this is a second car, I don't plan on tracking it nor beating on it, I'm betting I'll be putting on less then 4k a year mileage wise.
Last edited by Liftbikerun; 08-14-2018 at 01:13 PM. Reason: Pricing Change.
#2
Rennlist Member
LBR, a base 987.1 is a fun car and the fact that it has upgraded brakes is cool (poser S?) look. The mileage is a bit high even with good mx. It will no doubt need a water pump and maybe even an AOS in the future (neither high priced). The only downside is the 5 speed. The S comes with a 6 speed. I would think that $20k would be a more reasonable price but it sounds like you have a “deal” already. Enjoy.
#3
LBR, a base 987.1 is a fun car and the fact that it has upgraded brakes is cool (poser S?) look. The mileage is a bit high even with good mx. It will no doubt need a water pump and maybe even an AOS in the future (neither high priced). The only downside is the 5 speed. The S comes with a 6 speed. I would think that $20k would be a more reasonable price but it sounds like you have a “deal” already. Enjoy.
#4
I paid 30k for a 2006 Cayman S with 42k. Several folks pointed out that this was more than a typical price (25k - 28k being their estimates), but I had complete history of frequent service and a cosmetically exceptional car that gets lots of compliments.
You are in the right price range, and if the car meets your desires, I think a premium is justified. Complete service records add a premium, and the recent clutch is a bonus.
If it's not exactly what you were looking for, make the lower offer and be prepared to walk away. These cars are out there. Good luck.
You are in the right price range, and if the car meets your desires, I think a premium is justified. Complete service records add a premium, and the recent clutch is a bonus.
If it's not exactly what you were looking for, make the lower offer and be prepared to walk away. These cars are out there. Good luck.
#6
Looks like a nice car but I think it’s priced closer to S models then base models. I have a base and bought it because the price was right. I’ve seen S models sell for mid $20s and bases depending on condition and mileage for $15-20k. Mine is higher mileage (112k when I purchased) but was 1 owner and had full mtc records and in excellent condition. To me condition and records matter more then the miles and price to some degree. If its in great condition and has great records and you like it then go for it. I’d still try to maneuver some on the price though.
#7
2008 Cayman 2.7
I bought a 2008 Cayman 3 years ago for $1 grand less. It did have 88K on it, however. It was a one owner WITH a plethora of records. It now has 110,000 miles on it with zero issues. So there is a comparison. I live on the east coast and they are relatively plentiful. That's my experience.
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#8
Instructor
The TPMS light just means that they didn't change the sensors yet. They should have changed them with the new tires....
If you like the car and it passes PPI, then insist on new sensors installed ($300) and enjoy the car.
There are always going to be people that tell you you spent too much for too little.
It's your money, you are getting a car with a new clutch and no issues.
Enjoy it.
If you like the car and it passes PPI, then insist on new sensors installed ($300) and enjoy the car.
There are always going to be people that tell you you spent too much for too little.
It's your money, you are getting a car with a new clutch and no issues.
Enjoy it.
#9
Advanced
The TPMS sensors expected life is about six to eight years so these are going or gone if original. Like Brian C stated get them to change them or get a discount. A Porsche dealer will charge you big $. When I bought my '08 Cayman in 2014 the Porsche dealer charged $1,877.94 (!) to change all four sensors. Fortunately I didn't have to pay that. The Benz dealer I purchased it from out of state that had taken it in trade told me to just have it fixed at my Porsche dealer when I got home and they would take care of the cost as the light came up on my test drive. In my opinion Porsche really did a job on the Benz dealership. SO, get it done elsewhere.
#11
Bought my '08 2.7 Cayman with a 5 speed 3 years ago....
....it had one owner with a complete history and 88.5 K miles. I paid $21K. It has performed flawlessly and now has 111,000 miles on it. Original clutch, aos and water pump. I did replace the dampers recently. Only one mod, the wheels. Sorry I guess I already commented but did not include a picture.
#12
Liftbikerun- I like the look of your car, very similar to mine. Only 4 k a year? Put a bike rake on the top and use it to as your bike car. You will add up milage and have fun. In the mean time, Start your car every couple of weeks to keep the moisture out of the engine oil by driving around for 1/2 to 1 hour to warm up your oil. Always warm up the engine for 5 minutes before taking off then slowly increase your aggressiveness. Change the oil annually. Have fun and do some autocross events, you will enjoy.
Last edited by Apex1; 11-11-2018 at 09:49 PM.
#13
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Liftbikerun- I like the look of your car, very similar to mine. Only 4 k a year? Put a bike rake on the top and use it to as a bike car. You will add up milage and have fun. In the mean time, Start your car every week to keep the moisture out of the engine oil, if possible run it around a little to warm things up. Always warm up the engine a little before taking off. Change the oil annually. Have fun and do some autocross events, you will enjoy.
#14
Live in Seattle, you will appreciate what cold moisture can do. Ask any trucker or sailor who has a diesel engine and uses diesel stabilizer to remove the moisture in the diesel. How do you think it gets there, not a funnel catching the rain.
I will think about my Cargraphic headers and Milltec exhaust as I warm up my engine and drive my car Thats way I said to run it around for a 1/2 hour or more to warm things up. .Unfortunately 987.1's do not have oil pressure or oil temp gauges, so knowing how warm the oil is to burn off the moisture is a guess, I would say at least 1/2 hour and do not push it during the first 10-15 minutes. We have bore scoring issues that could occur under these circumstances. You can google that issue.
I will think about my Cargraphic headers and Milltec exhaust as I warm up my engine and drive my car Thats way I said to run it around for a 1/2 hour or more to warm things up. .Unfortunately 987.1's do not have oil pressure or oil temp gauges, so knowing how warm the oil is to burn off the moisture is a guess, I would say at least 1/2 hour and do not push it during the first 10-15 minutes. We have bore scoring issues that could occur under these circumstances. You can google that issue.
Last edited by Apex1; 11-06-2018 at 06:45 PM.
#15
Do NOT periodically start a "stored" car.
1) Each start is cold start, under the worst possible conditions Minimum clearances, and minimum residual lubrication.
2) When you shut down, condensate will collect in the crankcase. Never start a stored car unless you going to drive it long enough to bring the oil up warm enough to boil off accumulated condensate.
1) Each start is cold start, under the worst possible conditions Minimum clearances, and minimum residual lubrication.
2) When you shut down, condensate will collect in the crankcase. Never start a stored car unless you going to drive it long enough to bring the oil up warm enough to boil off accumulated condensate.