Crankshaft sensor failure?
#1
Crankshaft sensor failure?
2004 Turbo with 84K miles.
Earlier this week on the drive home, PSM failure message came up and car started limping, revs were higher than normal and stalled once. Restarts took bit of cranking. Durametric shows "P0335" which is for crankshaft sensor. Some other erratic things like all the gears were highlighted and the display did not show any shifting of gears.
I have owned the car for 4 years and hence, decided to put in a new battery to eliminate any symptoms of a failing battery. I still get the same error. I have ordered a new sensor and will be putting in next week but wanted to see if anyone has any other suggestions.
Thx
Below is the error and the attached is the short test of all modules:
"Bosch Digital Motor Electronics 7.1.1
Current Fault Codes
P0335:
Crankshaft Position Sensor "A" Circuit - No signal/communication, test conditions are not-completed, fault is currently active and causing a DTC light
"
Earlier this week on the drive home, PSM failure message came up and car started limping, revs were higher than normal and stalled once. Restarts took bit of cranking. Durametric shows "P0335" which is for crankshaft sensor. Some other erratic things like all the gears were highlighted and the display did not show any shifting of gears.
I have owned the car for 4 years and hence, decided to put in a new battery to eliminate any symptoms of a failing battery. I still get the same error. I have ordered a new sensor and will be putting in next week but wanted to see if anyone has any other suggestions.
Thx
Below is the error and the attached is the short test of all modules:
"Bosch Digital Motor Electronics 7.1.1
Current Fault Codes
P0335:
Crankshaft Position Sensor "A" Circuit - No signal/communication, test conditions are not-completed, fault is currently active and causing a DTC light
"
#3
Racer
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I have just experienced a similar group of error codes. However, in your case the A/C, KESSY, park assist and wiper codes are probably unrelated or symptomatic.
I have had the P0335 error code for the "crankshaft position sensor" and also the P0021 and P0351 codes for the "camshaft position sensor". I realise they are different sensors. I also have had the 1314 DME errors and a bunch of other codes simultaneously. So, I offer the following comments with regard to both sensors.
For the camshaft sensors......
There are two camshaft sensors, one on each side at the back of the engine. The annoying thing is you will need to remove the inlet manifold to replace them. It is near impossible to replace them without doing this...although some guys reckon you can. You would need to be a magician to replace these sensors without removing the manifold.
The symptoms for a failing camshaft sensor are initially stumbling upon acceleration, intermittent PSM failure and ultimately sudden death whilst driving. The engine will then crank but not fire. You will need to get the vehicle towed once a sensor fails.
I have just replaced both my camshaft sensors......after my Cayenne sat idle for several weeks. Obviously, my Cayenne is completely transformed (and running, which is a plus).
Camshaft sensors are relatively cheap. Replacing them takes a few hours.
For the crankshaft sensor....
The crank reference sensor is a different beast altogether and is located under the bell housing with the plug in an awkward position behind the left side air pump.....Relatively easy to remove and replace but a bit more expensive (there is only one). At least you don't have to remove the manifold to replace it.
Similarly to a failed camshaft sensor, the engine will then crank but not fire. You will also need to get the vehicle towed once this sensor fails.
There are good write-ups on Pelican Parts for the replacement of both types of sensors.
Hope this helps in some way.
I have had the P0335 error code for the "crankshaft position sensor" and also the P0021 and P0351 codes for the "camshaft position sensor". I realise they are different sensors. I also have had the 1314 DME errors and a bunch of other codes simultaneously. So, I offer the following comments with regard to both sensors.
For the camshaft sensors......
There are two camshaft sensors, one on each side at the back of the engine. The annoying thing is you will need to remove the inlet manifold to replace them. It is near impossible to replace them without doing this...although some guys reckon you can. You would need to be a magician to replace these sensors without removing the manifold.
The symptoms for a failing camshaft sensor are initially stumbling upon acceleration, intermittent PSM failure and ultimately sudden death whilst driving. The engine will then crank but not fire. You will need to get the vehicle towed once a sensor fails.
I have just replaced both my camshaft sensors......after my Cayenne sat idle for several weeks. Obviously, my Cayenne is completely transformed (and running, which is a plus).
Camshaft sensors are relatively cheap. Replacing them takes a few hours.
For the crankshaft sensor....
The crank reference sensor is a different beast altogether and is located under the bell housing with the plug in an awkward position behind the left side air pump.....Relatively easy to remove and replace but a bit more expensive (there is only one). At least you don't have to remove the manifold to replace it.
Similarly to a failed camshaft sensor, the engine will then crank but not fire. You will also need to get the vehicle towed once this sensor fails.
There are good write-ups on Pelican Parts for the replacement of both types of sensors.
Hope this helps in some way.
Last edited by Orantes; 06-19-2016 at 09:07 PM.
#4
Supercharged
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I had the same issue recently. My replacement sensor is already on the way - shoudl be here tomorrow or Wednesday.
I will try to document the R&R as best I can, but I usually forget to take pictures once I get into it. I've seen pics of where the sensor bolts into the FW, but the connector-side is a bit of a mystery to me at this point. But if anyone knows of a good writeup already, I'm happy to follow someone else's instructions.
I will try to document the R&R as best I can, but I usually forget to take pictures once I get into it. I've seen pics of where the sensor bolts into the FW, but the connector-side is a bit of a mystery to me at this point. But if anyone knows of a good writeup already, I'm happy to follow someone else's instructions.
#6
I had a crankshaft position sensor go bad a while back. It tossed tons of random and odd codes until I finally changed it out. Also had the odd running engine, sloppy idle, eventually dying on the side of the road. Would restart, but run super poor. I first swapped out the battery as sometimes that makes things go crazy, but that wasn't it in the long run.
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#8
Thanks for all the information. My 04 Turbo is approaching 85K miles and the problem seem to have started few weeks ago. I have ordered Bosch sensor ($55 shipped from Amazon) and was the cheapest price. Will replace and see what it does (along with newer battery).
hahnmgh63@ seems like different sensors for various trim levels. Correct part number for 2004 CTT is 955-606-381
hahnmgh63@ seems like different sensors for various trim levels. Correct part number for 2004 CTT is 955-606-381
#9
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I had the same issue recently. My replacement sensor is already on the way - shoudl be here tomorrow or Wednesday.
I will try to document the R&R as best I can, but I usually forget to take pictures once I get into it. I've seen pics of where the sensor bolts into the FW, but the connector-side is a bit of a mystery to me at this point. But if anyone knows of a good writeup already, I'm happy to follow someone else's instructions.
I will try to document the R&R as best I can, but I usually forget to take pictures once I get into it. I've seen pics of where the sensor bolts into the FW, but the connector-side is a bit of a mystery to me at this point. But if anyone knows of a good writeup already, I'm happy to follow someone else's instructions.
The connector for the crank reference sensor is brown. It slides onto a black bracket behind the air pump. It is actually the connector that slides on, not the small plug from the wiring loom that inserts into it. You can gently push the connector off the bracket, sliding towards the firewall.
The plug from the loom has a clip on one side only. You can slide a small screw driver into the clip and gently pry outwards to release. All quite easy, once you know what you are looking at.
Hope this helps.
#10
Supercharged
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The connector for the crank reference sensor is behind the air pump on the left hand side (top) of the engine. You will need to undo the three bolts to the air pump and lay it to the side for more room.
The connector for the crank reference sensor is brown. It slides onto a black bracket behind the air pump. It is actually the connector that slides on, not the small plug from the wiring loom that inserts into it. You can gently push the connector off the bracket, sliding towards the firewall.
The plug from the loom has a clip on one side only. You can slide a small screw driver into the clip and gently pry outwards to release. All quite easy, once you know what you are looking at.
Hope this helps.
The connector for the crank reference sensor is brown. It slides onto a black bracket behind the air pump. It is actually the connector that slides on, not the small plug from the wiring loom that inserts into it. You can gently push the connector off the bracket, sliding towards the firewall.
The plug from the loom has a clip on one side only. You can slide a small screw driver into the clip and gently pry outwards to release. All quite easy, once you know what you are looking at.
Hope this helps.
#11
I changed the sensor yesterday and the car seems to run normal. Haven't attached durametric to see if the faults have cleared.
On the job itself, it requires a lot of patience and below are some tips:
1) Remove the undertrays. It makes accessing the sensor and routing the cable easier.
2) Remove the engine cover and as AO wrote, remove the air pump. I disconnected the electrical connector and pulled the pump out of the way.
3) It is almost impossible to see the sensor. Use a phone to make a video (or just look around) to get a good sense of how the sensor is attached to the connector coming out of the loom. This will help you guide screwdriver to push sensor out of the slot.
Overall, takes a lot of patience. Another annoyance is the grommets that the sensor cable is attached to are impossible to reach and you have to use a really long screwdriver to access it. I ended up breaking one out of the 3.
Good luck!
On the job itself, it requires a lot of patience and below are some tips:
1) Remove the undertrays. It makes accessing the sensor and routing the cable easier.
2) Remove the engine cover and as AO wrote, remove the air pump. I disconnected the electrical connector and pulled the pump out of the way.
3) It is almost impossible to see the sensor. Use a phone to make a video (or just look around) to get a good sense of how the sensor is attached to the connector coming out of the loom. This will help you guide screwdriver to push sensor out of the slot.
Overall, takes a lot of patience. Another annoyance is the grommets that the sensor cable is attached to are impossible to reach and you have to use a really long screwdriver to access it. I ended up breaking one out of the 3.
Good luck!
#12
Nordschleife Master
Thanks for the info on the crank sensor.
Looks like my windshield wiper motor just crapped out on me. Out of all the cars I have owned I have never had to replace a wiper motor. First time for everything. Right? Anyone else in this thread have to do a wiper motor too?
Looks like my windshield wiper motor just crapped out on me. Out of all the cars I have owned I have never had to replace a wiper motor. First time for everything. Right? Anyone else in this thread have to do a wiper motor too?