deilenberger

5thlilpiggy - interesting link. It's a shame we don't know if the engine ever ran correctly again. One of those guys..

5thlilpiggy

Looks like ya took care of it

deilenberger

I guess we'll see if he ever replies..

Just went and looked - he did reply:

So he did a LOT of work and spent a lot of money for nothing - based on some Internet diagnosis'. IE - worst case scenarios. I always look for the best-case scenario first - it helps me sleep at night.

deilenberger

You might want to add info to your profile so we know where you're located - someone local to you may be able to help in recommending a good German auto mechanic.

Jeroen Pipelers

You can also keep your money in your pocket. Start your car and keep it running with ac off. Wait until you hear the fan coming on. Now you now water is hot. Look under the car. Do you see water falling? If yes you have a big coolant leak.

I guess you need a new coolant expansion reservoir. Get one one Ebay for $50 ( i have 2 lying around) and have this installed by your so called mechanic. Will take less then 30 minutes if he does not break any hoses. There is also the coolant pipes but don't worry about them because your car already had the alu ones. Thank me later.

CTTS520

@jenxo- I discovered these instructional tech articles at Pelican Parts thanks to the good people on this forum. Click here and have a look. then scroll down to "Water Cooling System" and check out all of the articles. I followed the instructions in the "Coolant Expansion Tank Replacement" article with great success. Who knew you had to start by removing the headlight assembly? Even if you don't have either the time, facilities, or desire to do your own wrenching, its worth the read just to be more informed so you can better communicate with your mechanic. Most importantly, find a good Porsche Mechanic in your area and take your car in for servicing just to start building that relationship.

jfort

In about 1986, I had coolant getting into combustion on a 79 BMW7. I got some of that shredded paper stuff for such leaks and followed the directions. Flushed, filled, put it in, got it hot, flushed again and filled. I tightened the head bolts a little. The car ran for years without a problem and I sold it to a friend who drove it for years.

jenxo

CTTS520 -Great advice. Thanks so much.

deilenberger

GM used to have an official brand they sold - cellulose basically - when they were having problems with porous blocks. It worked well on weepy leaks on BMWs (like the stupid hose fittings going to the heated intake manifold on one..) Just couldn't use too much, don't want it plugging up things where water is supposed to flow. The idea is the cellulose hardened up when exposed to air, so when it got to a leak, it would start flowing to the outside world, see air, harden up and plug the leak.

Actually not a bad idea.

jenxo

I need to add this detail :
When I purchased the '06 in 2013, I was told by the previous owner that it may need a heater core replacement. Over the last year, the heat has not been working, and some friends have told me the "heater core" is bad. I'm really not technical, and will have to research what this heater core actually is and does, but it is starting to sound like a factor.

jenxo

I need to add this detail :
When I purchased the '06 in 2013, I was told by the previous owner that it may need a heater core replacement. Over the last year, the heat has not been working, and some friends have told me the "heater core" is bad. I'm really not technical, and will have to research what this heater core actually is and does, but it is starting to sound like a factor.

deilenberger

The heater core is a small radiator like device in the HVAC system. Hot coolant from the engine is circulated through it and air is blown though it - and the result - warm/hot air is used to heat the cabin.

Most cars the vehicle is basically built around the heater core - suspended in space and the car assembled around it (especially old Volvo 140/240 series.) That means it isn't easy or inexpensive to replace.

Since it's been about 3 years since you purchased it - and I assume the leaking just started the correlation between the leak and the heater core needing replacement isn't altogether damning to me.

The first step I'd take is to get the car up on a lift and SEE where the coolant is leaking down.

Usually if a heater core springs a leak - the inside of the windshield will fog up and get a slimy anti-freeze coating on it - and it will really stink like coolant. It's generally pretty obvious. I think even not being "technical" you might have noticed this happening.

Lets get the location of the leak narrowed down before wandering off into guess-land.

jenxo

This is the end of the story...

I installed a new battery from PEP boys ( 2 year 9 months under warranty free replacement. Was a BOSCH). It is under the drivers seat, and had to buy a tool wrench tip :XZN Triple Square Bit Socket.
Car had been sitting for 2 weeks, waiting for a mobile mechanic to come by.
Once I put the battery in, I noticed The coolant leak almost stopped completely. I still had to fill the reservoir and top it up weekly, but 80% less loss.
I have no idea what it was. Maybe the heat ( got up to 110 degrees Fahrenheit here), or something. No idea.
Seemed like the perfect time to sell it, so I did. Was running just fine, and told the new buyer about it.

Thanks to the fabulous and sharing contributors. God bless you all.

Douglas61

Thanks guys for the information. I am a newbie here, recently bought a 2008 V6 Cayenne with 57k miles. I notice some white smoke from the two tailpipes at stop as well, no smell at all. My coolant consumption is about 50mL over 1500 miles. Both the oil and coolant caps look normal. I couldn't see oil or milk on the coolant reservoir either. Could that be the worse, a broken head gasket? Thanks!

Kirill

You probably want to start your own new thread - your V6 is very different from V8 discussed here.