BlackTurboS

Hi Everyone,

Before you get too excited about my post title, this isn't a high performance overhaul where I installed bigger turbos, etc. With that said, I wanted to share my experience with my recent "overhaul" that I did on my 2009 Turbo S. First, I want to thank anyone who has posted their DIYs and tips on various fixes. I couldn't have done this without you. Sincere thank you to all who contribute. This is my attempt at contributing some information, and simply sharing the changes I made to my CTTS.

Here is a high level list of what I did all in one sweep:
Serpentine belt
Serpentine belt tension/hydraulic spring
Idler pulleys
Water pump and pulley
Forge Boost Diverter Valves (mine were shot @ 74k miles now)
Replaced Boost Hose Seals on Turbo to Intercooler hose (released oil from boost hose as well on driver's side - about 1 cup of fluid drained out)
Cleaned Throttle Body
Air Filters
Ditched the 21 inch stock wheels with 295/35R21 Summers for 20 inch Savini BM7s with 275/45R20 Conti All Seasons
Full 8 pot brake kit from PB Brakes (shoutout and thanks to Lupo.sk for the info and recommendations on sizing, etc.)


First, the serpentine belt and all the pulleys. I thought this part was fairly easy. Removed the throttle body, remove the hoses, etc. and you have a clear shot of the serpentine belt. I bought the hydraulic tensioner and idler pulleys because I didn't want to replace my serpentine belt and then in a few months/miles a bad pulley cause my new belt to snap. After playing with some of the pulleys after removing the belt, I could see some minor cracking in the pulley lips and wobble. So, I replaced all of them. Here is a picture of the pulley/roller that attaches to the hydraulic tensioner for the belt. Glad I bought it ahead of time because I would have been hesitant to put a new belt on this pulley with the grooves worn into it. Just a recommendation and suggestion:





Now onto the water pump. This was surprisingly easy as well (easy being used loosely). While the belt was off I pulled the old pump out and swapped a new one in with a new water pump pulley. I played with the old water pump and pulley once I got it out and I could hear a slight grinding noise, maybe a bad bearing. It was working fine, but I replaced it since I was in there anyway.

Forge Boost Diverter Valves. These are made by 400 different brands but they are ultimately all the same. If you compare side by side, I think many of the brands come from the same manufacturer. This was by far the biggest improvement in performance I have noticed to my car. After driving it last night, I could believe how quickly it builds boost now and how much smoother it is during acceleration, etc. My stock Bosch DV's must have really been shot. I knew they were needed because of the slight honking noise at max boost pressure. Here is a pic of those:




Throttle Body Cleaining - simple, just followed the PelicanParts tutorial and used some brake/parts cleaner. It was very dirty and was spotless after I was finished cleaning it. Sorry, forgot to take a picture of that one.

PB 8 pot Brake Kit - I was hesitant on this and it took me a while to pull the trigger. First, they are not cheap and second, I was unsure of quality. I give a big thank you to Dan Newton at PB Brakes for answering tons of questions and hooking me up with a discount on a full kit (front and rear). He takes customer service to a new level and that is not found easily these days. I read a lot of online reviews that questioned PB's quality, made in China, etc. etc. etc. None of those reviewers ever owned or tested PB Brakes. I spoke with Dan at length and decided to go for it. I also want to thank Lupo.sk who is a member here on Rennlist and put the PB kit on his 06 CTTS. Thanks again Lupo for the recommendations on sizes and options.

I went with the 8 pot kit in the front in matte black with full floating rotors and a 6 pot kit in the rear with full floating rotors. I would be lying to you if I said this was easy. Installing the PB kit was easy, but removing the old Porsche brakes was probably one of the hardest things I've ever encountered. Every time I thought I would make progress I ran into an issue, stripped screws, forgot to get a 16mm triple square for the rear calipers, etc. But, perseverance pays off. Just kept going at it until I got it done. Here is a picture of the before and after brakes. By the way, I am not sure if they are worth anything but I did meticulously remove the Porsche Turbo S brakes and didn't break anything. If anyone is interested, I have them available. Make an offer and they are yours. I think all you would need is the rotors and pads. I have all of the brake lines, mounting brackets, and ready to use brake pad sensors. They were just on the verge of going off but are still able to be re-used.

Before:




After with the PB Kit:



I forgot to mention I also replaced the Hydraulic Fluid Resevoirs (2 of them). One for the power steering and one for the hydraulic suspension thing (I forget the exact name of it). This was super easy with vice grips. Suck the fluid out with my MityVac, vice grip the clamps on the hoses, swap the resevoirs, put hoses back on, and refill with fresh pentosin. Porsche recommends replacing these every 60k miles and I figured for the price, why not. Super easy and gives me peace of mind.

In conclusion... all I can say is whoever invented vice grips deserves $100,000,000. I had three pair that I used on almost every step of the process, except for the brakes. The vice grips were imperative to making this somewhat easy. You can clamp the hose clamps open, swap the diverter valves, then quickly clamp it back on. They were a true lifesaver during this work.

Now if I can just figure out how to disable the brake pad sensor warning. The PB kit doesn't have the sensors so they are disconnected, I checked all the settings in my Durametric and don't see how to disable the pad warning. Should I try to pull a fuse or something, any suggestions?!?

Thanks again to all who post. I couldn't have done this without it, and certainly wouldn't want to know what the bill would have been to have a shop do all of this work.


EDIT: Adding the Porsche Part Numbers for Reference if it helps others. I got these parts from Pelican Parts, sorry if they are not the OEM Part Numbers

Drive Belt Idler Pulley (left) - 7PP-145-276-M100
Drive Belt Idler Pulley (Right) - 948-102-118-20-M100
Drive Belt Tensioner (Hydraulic unit looks like a little shock that keeps tension on serp belt) - 948-102-261-21-M100
Drive Belt Tensioner Arm with Roller (attaches to hydraulic unit) - 948-102-403-23-M100
Drive Belt Tensioner Bolt - 999-073-246-09-M100
8x96 Torx Screw - OEM-99907332909

From Suncoast:
Water Pump with Gasket: 94810603301
Serpentine Belt: 7PP903137

Forge Motorsport Diverter Valves:
FMDVPORV8 (Set of two)

From ECS Tuning:
Water Pump Pulley - 94810609101
Hydraulic Fluid Resevoir (2 of them, one for steering and one for hydraulic suspension thing) - 95531401520


Well... I didn't realize I replaced that many things all at once. Not to mention the wheels and tires LOL. Hopefully the Turbo S is good to go for miles to come.

wrinkledpants

Nice. Why the brake upgrade? Where you getting fade on the OEM setup?

Make sure you pull those DV's annually to re-lube them. That's the downside with piston-type diverter valves is that they only work at factory levels while they're freshly lubed, and then the performance steadily declines over time. Most cars that they're used on - the DV's are easily assessable so it's not a huge issue. With the factory 710 valve, or something like the APR R1 valve, they work fairly consistently their whole life until they fail. Stock boost levels on the cayenne are somewhere around 10 psi. The factory DV will reliably hold up to 25 psi, or so.

GrandeOak

@BlackTurboS Feedback on the difficulty of DIY projects is always appreciated.

What are the symptoms of failed or failing DVs?

Any reason to replace DVs preventively or just wait till they fail?

I am 115K miles on presumably original DVs. Mine seem fine, no noises and boost builds much sooner and quicker than others I test drove, but figure they are nearing the end.

x98boardwell

Great write up and thanks for sharing. PM'd you on the brakes.

Doing this job this weekend.. wish me luck.

user 83838290

nice write up!!!

congrats on the brakes, what pads did you get? as for the sensor warning, just plug your existing sensors in and tuck them somewhere. check pads every couple of weeks just like everybody did a couple of years ago before sensors became widespread and that's it ;-)

wrinkledpants, if you swap the discs once and pads twice, the big brake kit will pretty much pay for itself due to OEM TTS disc pricing. (at least over here in the EU)

BlackTurboS

Thanks Wrinkledpants, I did not know they needed annual relube, I will definitely set a reminder in my gmail calendar for an annual re-lube. Thanks again, I was not aware of that! They make a great sound while building boost as well, they sound strong and I can hear the air as I'm building and releasing pressure, much better than the OEM valves going "whaaaaaaamp" after I let off the gas after hitting max boost. LOL

BlackTurboS

I believe the symptom of failing DVs is that at max boost or letting off the throttle after boosting is a honking noise. I didn't get it every time, the car was still fast as h*ll but occasionally I would build boost up and when I let off the throttle I would hear "whaaaaamp" It was kind of funny sounding. I replaced them because I read many other CTT/CTTS owners that experienced better performance after replacing them, and I agree. For $300 it was an amazing improvement. I wouldn't replace them unless you notice an issue/noise from your DVs.

BlackTurboS

Thanks Lupo! And thanks again for the recommendations and help. I went with the sport pads just as you suggested. I didn't think to plug in the sensors and tuck them in behind the wheel LOL thanks. It did cross my mind but I thought to myself, no that doesn't seem right. Looking back I should have just let them plugged in and tucked them in. Great point!

I've only put about 50 miles on the new pads and rotors thus far, but wow. For a 5500 pound SUV with 550 horsepower the thing stops on a dime now. I didn't realize how bad my stock brakes were until I put these on. UNREAL how well they perform. I am having some slight noise on the right rear brake but I am hoping that goes away after some break in period (another 50 miles). If not I will investigate to see what the deal is. It just sounds like the pad rubbing against the rotor.

I did all of this work for a few reasons. Some of it was needed, and my wife and I are expecting twins in March 2016. I may not have this kind of time to mess with my Cayenne as much as I do now, so I wanted to knock this all out right now hoping I can go quite a while without any issues.

Thanks again!

BlackTurboS

Sorry I forgot to answer the first part of your post. I went with the brake upgrade because of the cost and mileage rating of the OEM brakes. I am a strong believer in slotted/drilled rotors compared to flat surfaced traditional rotors. I've had slotted rotors on an old Impreza WRX I had, drilled rotors on an ML430 years ago, and even had slotted rotors on my wife's Rav4. I just believe in it. As Lupo.sk mentioned, the PB kit will pay for itself in 20k miles, not to mention the PB kit was fully floating rotors.

Given my braking/driving style, I am expecting to get 50-60k miles off the PB kit with one or two swaps of pads. I never race my CTTS and RARELY go above 100 mph. I have faith that they will last me a very very long time, whereas the OEM setup didn't make sense. and they look cool with all black.

I am going for the blacked out look as well, so I love the black calipers from PB. I also got a matte black "Cayenne" authentic Porsche emblem to replace the OEM "Cayenne Turbo S" silver colored emblems on the back. I need to do some research but I want to remove the silver and replace it with just the black "Cayenne". I'm not a flashy person, I don't need the world to know its a Turbo S other than me. Although, they may find out once I hit the throttle and pass them on the highway at the blink of an eye. Then they may know its not your average V6 Cayenne as the black logo may indicate LOL

any tips on remove the stock "Cayenne Turbo S" emblems on the rear hatch would be appreciated. I think it would look cool with all black calipers, my matte black wheels, and now a black "Cayenne" emblem on the back. I even have the black pillars on the sides of the car. I love this thing. Best damn car I've ever owned and as others have said on this forum (in fact I think it was a post I read from you wrinkled). many of us are Cayenne owners for life, we'll just eventually upgrade to a newer model. In about 5 years, I'll probably buy a 2015 Cayenne Turbo S in all black. I can't imagine driving anything else. Spoiled for life man...

wrinkledpants

Yep - unfortunately it's what makes the piston-style DV not overly appealing to a lot of people, at least not in the Porsche or Audi world since the 710 valve works so good. Diaphragm style valves don't need any maintenance. Someone did a test back in the day of the various piston, diaphragm, and factory diverter valves - both response time and max boost pressures. Basically - they were all roughly the same. But, when the piston style diverter valves got some miles on them, the started to slow in response to the OEM units because of the need for lube. A lot of people consider them under-hood bling (for those people with motors where the DV's are on top of the engine).

Diverter valves are simple devices. They're either closed or open, and the ECU is dictating when to open or close them. They should be closed while boost is coming on, and this won't matter whether it's the EOM or the most expensive after market unit you can find.

Not saying you chose wrong, but if you bought those DV's for the performance, you need to stay on the lube cycle or they'll start lagging behind and coming off WOT won't be as smooth as it should be.

BlackTurboS

Thanks again Wrinkled. Interesting info about the stock vs piston style. I definitely didn't buy them for bling since they are buried under the wheel wells and covered by the wheel well liner! I did think that the metal would be more durable and ultimately last longer in the long term. I will keep lubricating them and thanks again for the info, I would have been pissed next Thanksgiving when my DVs started acting up again!!!

Petza914

Best way to remove emblems is to lightly heat them, then take a length of the string type (not the flat type) of dental floss and saw the string back and forth behind the emblem as you work your way from one side to the other. This will remove them without bending or breaking them, not damage the paint or the emblem finish. Any remaining residue can be cleaned-up with Goo Gone or WD40.

If you want to reuse them, just put some new 3M adhesive trim tape on the back and trace around the letters with an Xacto hobby knife. Also, if planning to reuse the emblems you remove, make a template or take some measurements so you know where it should be reattached and what the spacing should look like.