New Brake Rotor Warped
#31
Rennlist Member
No need to remove material from the rotor since you have found the problem. Just go after it with some more sanding cycles and it should go away.
You should also take the brake pads and sand each braking surface slowly against sandpaper sitting on a flat surface to reveal virgin breaking surface. It will only take a couple of cycles.
Then it is off to the road for some proper bedding.
#33
RL Community Team
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#34
Rennlist Member
Yes hot spots on rotors can make the brake pedal pulsate.
#35
Drifting
Thread Starter
Update. I drove around for a bit and decided the 90% improvement was placebo. So I took the rotor off again and gave it a better sand and also sanded the pads. No difference. I took it off again and went to my buddies shop. He found a little runout and removed 5 thou from each side. The brakes are now working as they should.
#36
Out of curiosity... were the rotors surfaced while mounted on your Cayenne or were they removed for surfacing off the car? Stubborn cases can sometimes be resolved by resurfacing the rotors while they are mounted on the vehicle... though you need the special equipment to do this.
#37
checked and fixed on a lathe.....why am i not surprised ? oh i know because i am not a 5 minute google expert mechanic but really REPAIRED things . to the op...good it is fixed sorry you had to go through all the hbo drama from the experts
#38
Drifting
Thread Starter
Out of curiosity... were the rotors surfaced while mounted on your Cayenne or were they removed for surfacing off the car? Stubborn cases can sometimes be resolved by resurfacing the rotors while they are mounted on the vehicle... though you need the special equipment to do this.
#39
Drifting
Thread Starter
lol, No problem. I don't mind trying the the least invasive ideas first and going from there. I am pretty much retired so I have the time and have a good friend, (the indy that turned my rotor), who has helped me along on many auto projects, usually shaking his head. I did learn a lot about brakes though.
#40
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Out of curiosity... were the rotors surfaced while mounted on your Cayenne or were they removed for surfacing off the car? Stubborn cases can sometimes be resolved by resurfacing the rotors while they are mounted on the vehicle... though you need the special equipment to do this.
And as far as "warping" - care to re-read what I posted above about over-torqueing causing warping. Anyone who dogmatically says "brake rotors don't warp" hasn't really been working on vehicles all that long. I've certainly seen warped ones - probably from poor mounting (dirt under the seating surface on the hub) or over-torqueing of the wheel bolts. Give a shop monkey an impact gun and ask him to rotate your tires and watch how he does it..
Bzzzztttt, off. Bzzzzttt, bzzzzzt, bzzzzzy - back on. Stop when the impact gun stalls. A torque wrench is never seen, and it's rare that a torque-stick is seen in use (I insist on seeing the torque stick before I let them touch my wheels..)
#41
Rennlist Member
Most high volume brake shops have the on-car lathe.. places like Firestone, Meineke. When they replace pads (only) they commonly use one to skim cut the rotors and expose a fresh flat surface. As long as cutting doesn't result in the rotor going below spec - it should work fine.
And as far as "warping" - care to re-read what I posted above about over-torqueing causing warping. Anyone who dogmatically says "brake rotors don't warp" hasn't really been working on vehicles all that long. I've certainly seen warped ones - probably from poor mounting (dirt under the seating surface on the hub) or over-torqueing of the wheel bolts. Give a shop monkey an impact gun and ask him to rotate your tires and watch how he does it..
Bzzzztttt, off. Bzzzzttt, bzzzzzt, bzzzzzy - back on. Stop when the impact gun stalls. A torque wrench is never seen, and it's rare that a torque-stick is seen in use (I insist on seeing the torque stick before I let them touch my wheels..)
And as far as "warping" - care to re-read what I posted above about over-torqueing causing warping. Anyone who dogmatically says "brake rotors don't warp" hasn't really been working on vehicles all that long. I've certainly seen warped ones - probably from poor mounting (dirt under the seating surface on the hub) or over-torqueing of the wheel bolts. Give a shop monkey an impact gun and ask him to rotate your tires and watch how he does it..
Bzzzztttt, off. Bzzzzttt, bzzzzzt, bzzzzzy - back on. Stop when the impact gun stalls. A torque wrench is never seen, and it's rare that a torque-stick is seen in use (I insist on seeing the torque stick before I let them touch my wheels..)
#42
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I've always been led to believe that a rotor can warp. Not in the sense that the metal is actually bending, but wearing unevenly. This is caused by overheating the rotor where the pad actually starts wearing out the softer areas (less dense spots) of the rotor, thereby causing an uneven surface, hence the term warp as the surface is no longer straight and flat.
Additionally, most people who use that term "warped rotors" are actually implying the rotor bends under the stress of the heat. Given the fact the manufacturing process requires heat 3-4 times that of braking even in extreme conditions, that also makes no sense. There are two very simple explanations for "warped rotors" and they have been discussed above.
Also, I find it hard to believe that I can warp a piece of metal the size of a rotor by over-torquing or using an impact wrench to install lugs. The threads on the lugs would break far sooner than a inch of heat treated steel would bend.
Mechanical engineers, please correct me if I am
wrong.
#43
An argument isn't what I'm after and the 'warpable' vs 'not-warpable" crowds may just have to agree to disagree, but to further the discussion, why do you suppose there is a minimum spec? If a buildup is the only reason a rotor will have pulsating stopping power, you should be able to turn town the high spots indefinitely.
Whether the brake problem is due to uneven heating and cooling (changing the shape of the rotor dimensions), or some combination uneven adhesion/friction creating high and low spots with the end result of the rotor surface not being true, doesn't that basically define 'warped'?
Whether the brake problem is due to uneven heating and cooling (changing the shape of the rotor dimensions), or some combination uneven adhesion/friction creating high and low spots with the end result of the rotor surface not being true, doesn't that basically define 'warped'?
#44
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Also, I find it hard to believe that I can warp a piece of metal the size of a rotor by over-torquing or using an impact wrench to install lugs. The threads on the lugs would break far sooner than a inch of heat treated steel would bend.
Mechanical engineers, please correct me if I am wrong.
Mechanical engineers, please correct me if I am wrong.
If that metal is distorted due to improper use of an impact-gun or over-torqueing (and not tightening in a gradual crisscross pattern) or inadequately cleaning the hub surface when replacing rotors, then the rotor won't seat properly on the hub, causing runout that can be described as warping. BTDT.
The "inch of heat treated steel" doesn't have to bend to become useless - once the hub is distorted the "inch" of steel no longer travels true to the hub, and the rotor is then worthless.
There is a reason for using a crisscross tightening pattern, just like there is a reason for torqueing other components (like a cylinder head) in the same manner.
Originally Posted by Cayenne owners manual, pgs 280-283
Remove the remaining wheel bolts. For more information on wheel bolts:
Please see the chapter "WHEEL BOLTS" on page 275.
Take the wheel off and put a new wheel on.
Insert wheel bolts and tighten by hand.
Remove assembly aids and screw in remaining wheel bolts.
Initially tighten bolts only slightly in diagonally opposite sequence so that the wheel is centered.
Inflate the tire if necessary.
Please see the chapter "TIRE PRESSURE FOR COLD TIRES 68 °F (20 °C)" on page 310.
Lower the vehicle fully and remove the jack.
Tighten wheel bolts in diagonally opposite sequence.
Please see the chapter "WHEEL BOLTS" on page 275.
Take the wheel off and put a new wheel on.
Insert wheel bolts and tighten by hand.
Remove assembly aids and screw in remaining wheel bolts.
Initially tighten bolts only slightly in diagonally opposite sequence so that the wheel is centered.
Inflate the tire if necessary.
Please see the chapter "TIRE PRESSURE FOR COLD TIRES 68 °F (20 °C)" on page 310.
Lower the vehicle fully and remove the jack.
Tighten wheel bolts in diagonally opposite sequence.
#45
On a side-note I found that cryo treated rotors perform much better in regards to the ill effects of heat cycling. Well worth it. I also found that it is alsmost impossible to have to have your cake and eat it too when it comes to noise/dust/performance in regards to brakes. I have also found that the less agressive the pad and more low dust it is (which go hand in hand) the more heat problems you will have with rotors.