weight loss
10-12-2003, 05:28 AM
#1
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
weight loss
I know that there is a thread going on about this right now. Some of the info is good too. I want to get just as extreem if not more. I am at about 2100 right now. The car is 110% track only car which you can see for yourself.
Here is a site to see it with alot of pics and details:
http://www.ameritech.net/users/edbaus/race_car.html
Of course now it has a 2.7, rs 3.8 wing and 17" wheels.
Take a look and see if there are any suggestions.
Jason mensions the boxed area where the seats used to be. I have not removed any more than I needed to for the adjuster for the rear suspension.
I was also eyeing the torsion bar tube in the rear. I hear that the center section where the torsion bars attach is heavy.
I do not want to do anything that will harm the stiffness of the chassis.
Thanks
Ed
Here is a site to see it with alot of pics and details:
http://www.ameritech.net/users/edbaus/race_car.html
Of course now it has a 2.7, rs 3.8 wing and 17" wheels.
Take a look and see if there are any suggestions.
Jason mensions the boxed area where the seats used to be. I have not removed any more than I needed to for the adjuster for the rear suspension.
I was also eyeing the torsion bar tube in the rear. I hear that the center section where the torsion bars attach is heavy.
I do not want to do anything that will harm the stiffness of the chassis.
Thanks
Ed
10-12-2003, 11:32 AM
#2
AutoX
Join Date: Sep 2003
Posts: 12
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Looks like you have done the major weight loss things - the next steps become expensive!!
We replaced all of our earls steel braided fluid lines with Goodridge smooth bore kevlar which made a difference.
You could replace the wiring looms with a Mil aircraft wire with a nylon overbraid. Get rid of all switches and fuses and use ETA helicopter circuit breakers. Run a Odyssey jetski battery with 6mm aluminium rod as a battery 'cable'. Ditch the guages (and associated wiring) and run an error light only.
Remove the torsion bar tube if the cage braces all the right areas - that will save a good chunk. Are you using the std bumper bar mounts? If not cut them out! You may be supprised at the weight difference between fiberglass and carbon fiber parts (and seat). You can get the carbon so thin and still have just enough strength!!
If you have a lathe you can shorten all the fasteners in the car to the exact length required, also if you use socket head fasteners you can taper the head to lose more weight. Titanium bolts are not too dear where strength is required and use aluminium where it is not. I don't know where you will buy them in the US, but they are available from Demon Tweeks in metric...
Have you done lap time comparisons between 16 and 17inch wheels? I find that the 16's work better, particularly on the front. I machined down my rotors to 330mm to squeeze the 6 piston calipers inside them - if you use a good caliper with titanium pistons it will help the all important unsprung weight...
We replaced all of our earls steel braided fluid lines with Goodridge smooth bore kevlar which made a difference.
You could replace the wiring looms with a Mil aircraft wire with a nylon overbraid. Get rid of all switches and fuses and use ETA helicopter circuit breakers. Run a Odyssey jetski battery with 6mm aluminium rod as a battery 'cable'. Ditch the guages (and associated wiring) and run an error light only.
Remove the torsion bar tube if the cage braces all the right areas - that will save a good chunk. Are you using the std bumper bar mounts? If not cut them out! You may be supprised at the weight difference between fiberglass and carbon fiber parts (and seat). You can get the carbon so thin and still have just enough strength!!
If you have a lathe you can shorten all the fasteners in the car to the exact length required, also if you use socket head fasteners you can taper the head to lose more weight. Titanium bolts are not too dear where strength is required and use aluminium where it is not. I don't know where you will buy them in the US, but they are available from Demon Tweeks in metric...
Have you done lap time comparisons between 16 and 17inch wheels? I find that the 16's work better, particularly on the front. I machined down my rotors to 330mm to squeeze the 6 piston calipers inside them - if you use a good caliper with titanium pistons it will help the all important unsprung weight...